Monty

I don't know enough about tooling to say whether it'd be better to redo the original kit or start completely over. Lately it seems some of the mfrs are getting the small details down, but goofing up things like body proportions etc. I just want better kits of these two cars, for starters. You're absolutely right about MPC's '67 GTO. I still remember the disappointment I felt over 20 years ago when I bought that thing (molded in blue). Luckily I had a friend who was big into Pontiacs, so I traded it to him (for some magic beans, IIRC).

I was not aware of the 2+2, and I haven't built any of the others. Any pics of a chassis? (Molded-in exhaust really hacks me off).

I ventured into the MCM Slot Car section a couple weeks ago and saw your post about some new HO cars with white letter tires. I figured that since you were an HO fan and you had the ability to detail something as small as a Hot Wheels car, you might have also taken a stab at applying your talents to making Aurora's slot car more accurate (George Follmer version?) since they're both roughly 1/64 scale. My sincere apologies if I messed up your thread.

First, I'm confining the field to 1/25 and 1/24 scale cars, since that's what the majority of us build. By "better versions" I mean small but important things like bumpers not being attached to grilles, separate engine bay components, poseable front wheels & a chassis with no molded-in exhaust or suspension. (Quick example: Revell's '69 Charger proves this is all quite feasible). And above all, no metal axles through the engine block. OK, on to the cars: 1) The '65/'66 Ford Mustang fastback (your choice). The only fastback I can think of is Monogram's 1/24 Shelby GT350, which, while nice, doesn't allow you to build a stock Ford Mustang fastback. AMT offered a fastback gasser-type AWB Mustang way back when, as well as the '66 coupe and the Sonny and Cher Mustangs, and for those sins I think their penance should be to create a spectacular '65/'66 fastback. 2) The '63 Corvette coupe. Yeah, I can hear ya whinin' already: "There's too many Corvettes already, and besides, AMT and Revell already offer this." Read my opening paragraph again, then look at the AMT chassis. If you've ever seen what a correctly detailed IRS can do for a chassis (steet rod or 'Vette) you'll know why I'm making this point. As for what I think of snap kits, well...just think how you'd condense the instructions for suppositories into one pithy phrase. Revell/Monogram have already done some of the other C2s, so this shouldn't be much a stretch IMO. What would you add, and why? (I'm betting the Mopar guys are the first ones in regarding the 'Cuda fiasco).

Ya know, that's just about the size of the Aurora A/FX Javelin slot car... and I know you know your way around slot cars. Just sayin'...

Verizon/FIOS

Would you mind sharing your method for weathering mufflers? Those are exceptionally well done.

I've got a fairly new, very fast computer and my internet provider's top fiber-optic package. I can connect to any of my other favorite sites almost instantaneously, but for some reason I have problems connecting here. This doesn't happen every day, but far more often than it should, IMO. The only clues I have are 1) a pop-up box that says I can't be connected to this site and 2) a pop-up message indicating a sequel server error. (This one isn't quite as common as the first one). Admittedly, I'm not terribly knowledgeable about computers, but I can't figure out why I have so much trouble connecting here when all the other sites are a breeze. Anybody else experiencing this? 11:04 AM - Just happened again. Here's a copy/paste of the sequel server message: An error occured with the SQL server: This is not a problem with IP.Board but rather with your SQL server. Please contact your host and copy the message shown above.

Interesting. I learned about flocking years ago, and Mark Taylor recently got me hooked on using embossing powder, but I'd never heard of this method. Can ya post up a couple pics?

Now the whole thread's gone to pot...

I have the Micro-Mark version of the tool you mentioned and I consider it virtually indispensable, especially since my paint supply is about 80% enamels (Testors and Humbrol) in jars and tins. The majority of these are over 10 years old, but still work well with the use of the mixer. I happen to think these units do a more thorough job of mixing paint etc, which is exactly what you want if you're airbrushing. It's not all that expensive - buy one and tell us what you think.

I'm trying to acquire 4 of the 5-slot front wheels from Revell's Stone, Woods and Cook or Big John Mazmanian Willys coupe. I'd prefer to buy them outright, which precludes me from using the Swap, Trade or Free section. Is it OK to place a for-purchase ad in the Wanted section? Wheels look like this: Notice that these are not the Halibrands found in other Revell Willys kits.

David, what paint did you use on the body?

Well, we're halfway there: Thanks to RJWood I've got a P/N for the wire and a way to "paint" it. Since I don't have access to a whole lot of spare wire, I was hoping someone with more experience with "wires" could tell me the Radio Shack P/N for a wire whose insulation would be a tight slip-fit over the wire RJWood mentioned, allowing me to make "boots" for both ends. Yes, I'm aware that there are pre-made distributors out there (MAD's HEI units are The Best IMHO) but I don't always want to rely on the aftermarket if I can make it myself.

Can someone tell me what the difference is between Tamiya gray primer and Tamiya white primer? I Googled this yesterday and couldn't seem to find out much, with the exception that a couple people on different military-hobby sites said it's hard to shoot white primer over the gray stuff for some reason. Oh, and IMHO, the Squadron stuff is worthless.

I've been thinking about getting this kit beause I like the 1:1 car so much. What problems did you have with yours? Looks like it turned out well despite whatever issues it may have had. Way to go!

I'm wanting to create my own 1/25 8mm plug wires and boots. I know several of you have recommended Radio Shack wire for this, but need to know which P/N would work best for the plug wire and which P/N would be best for creating good fitting slip-over boots. I assume their wires come in a small variety of colors, but if not, what kind of paint would be best to address that? Acrylic? Enamel?

Has Revell given any indication that they'll retool their '72 Cutlass convertible so that it has the Cutlass Supreme roof? The mechanic who's been servicing my Corvette for the better part of 20 years has one like this, and I'd like to do up a replica for him.

I'm curious why you're having to resort to this to get that shade. Was the Pactra color something you couldn't duplicate with Tamiya or Testors lacquer? IIRC, Tamiya has three shades of metallic blue in this range, and you wouldn't have to go to half as much effort to use it. Good luck with the project - if it turns out well, you'll have turned us on to a yet another option for paint.

Are you saying you just dumped the unthinned paint in the cup and shot it? I'd have thought it would be too thick to airbrush.

OK, real world question here: Can someone explain how you can run "Demon Camber" on the street with that kind of wheel offset and not shred tires & trash bearings?

Happy Birthday, Mark!

With all the model knowledge on this forum, I'm surprised you haven't received an answer on this yet. I'd suggest you post this on the Spotlight Hobbies forum. There are several people on there who've worked in the industry and who really know their stuff about models. My link

Thanks for injecting some sanity into a volatile subject. I disagreed vigorously with the OP, so I started to answer this myself last night. Eventually I noticed that my reply was starting to look like the first draft of a dissertation and I figured no one on here would've bothered to read it, so I went to bed. Fortunately, you made most of the points I wanted to. Thanks again!