Monty

1) You may want to get some help loading pictures. There aren't any in your post. 2) Are you asking how much you could get for it if you were to sell it?

Bluemoose is nothing short of a rattle-can wizard. If you get a chance, take a look at his photo albums sometime. He also seems to have an aptitude for picking the "right" color for each of his models. Foiling refers to a technique whereby thin adhesive-backed foil is placed over specific areas on a model where you wish to replicate chrome or stainless steel trim. It's fairly common to see it used on the trim around windshields, rear windows and on fenders. With a little practice, you'll find it can also be used in much smaller areas. On most modeling boards, you'll commonly see it referred to as BMF or Bare Metal Foil. HTH

I read somewhere that engine guru John Lingenfelter was once an engineer at IH. Can you imagine what might've happened if he'd been given free rein over the engine dept? I'm thinking of songs about Internationals that the Beach Boys might have written... Be kinder to your binder It runs like glue (my 392) She's my little coupe Scout (I don't know what I bought) OK, back to reality. You did a great job on yours, especially the engine/underhood details. You're also correct that Testors Flaming Orange looks like a '70s color. I've still got one unbuilt one back in the closet somewhere...hmmm.

Jawohl, Herr Moderator! I regret my previous lack of respect, but I just found out you had your own magazine as well: http://globalnerdy.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2007/02/internet-tough-guy-magazine.gif I lived in four Midwest states before moving to Texas, and all started school in late August and ended in late May. Do I still have to shut my mouth, Majesty?

I'm guessing your hobby store sells either Humbrol or Testors enamels, so I'm curious as to what problems you actually experienced with them. Testors' Model Master range and Humbrol's Super Enamels offer finely ground pigments and a fairly extensive range of shades and colors. I'd venture to say that the vast majority of us started out with enamels and found them more than adequate for detailing purposes. Tamiya acrylics are nice, but in my experience, they require learning a "one-stroke" technique because, unlike an oil-based paint, acrylics don't respond well to being manipulated by a brush. They do airbrush nicely, especially with their reducer. Again, until we know what specific problem you had with the enamels, it'd be difficult to tell you whether you need to spend the money replacing them all with acrylics.

He once claimed that he "owned" a couple trucks and a car or two. Scale-Master called his bluff & asked to see the titles with Nick's name on them. Something tells me that Nick, a la O.J.Simpson, is still "looking". Your kids are still in school in the middle of June? Seriously?

I purchased Gunze Sangyo aqueous acrylics from these guys when G/S stopped selling them in the US awhile back. http://www.gosfordhobbies.com.au/ They're in Wyoming, NSW. They seem to have a great selection of supplies & kits.

Mark, I've been watching your tutorial, and I'm glad we're on the same page as far as wire-painting techniques go. I've been doing something similar for years - I use one of the brighter MM non-buffing Metalizers such as Aluminum and lightly brush it over the surface of the "wiring" on the firewall etc. (Sharp 10/0 brush required!) As you probably know, these paints are about twice as thin as a standard enamel, so they flow nicely and cover well without as much build-up to paint over. Plus, the brighter shades of the Metalizers allow shades like white, yellow and orange to be used more effectively. A friend of mine recently told me about the micro-tip Sharpies: http://www.sharpie.com/enUS/Product/Sharpie_Micro_Permanent_Marker.html They're about $6.00 for a set of 12 at Wallyworld, so they're not going to blow your modeling budget. I can definitely see them being useful for doing the wiring on lighter colored firewalls etc. The idea of adding your own wiring could provide excellent results provided you nail the scale and the routing of the molded-in wiring. Google images is your friend. My thanks to all who responded. I've been away from building for about 10 years and wanted to see if any radical changes in detailing techniques had occurred. I have recently started my "comeback kit" and I'm pleased to report I still seem to have my "chops". OTOH, I don't know jack about cameras or posting pics, so be prepared to walk me through that when the time comes.

My old boss had a metallic blue 928 - what a car. I like the direction you're taking this one. It looks sharp. May I ask what paint you used on the body?

That is one sharp Mercury! I don't think there's a better color combo for that car than the one you've chosen. Would I be correct in assuming it's the old AMT kit re-released by Model King a few years ago? The paint kinda looks like Tamiya Mica Red. (Am I even close? ?) I'd love to see some engine/chassis pictures if you have any.

Wow, I like what you're doing on this. Is this the Model King/AMT kit? I can't wait to see this finished.

This morning, Dave Burket (Model King) posted an announcement on the Spotlight Hobbies board that said Round2 will be reissuing this kit (as well as the Nirvana Chevy van) in the near future.

Al, would you mind sharing some casting tips? I've got a friend who is passionate about semis & enjoys building contest-winning model semi trucks. He felt that some of the tires in certain AMT and Italeri kits were inaccurate, so he mastered his own 1/25 semi truck tires, (drive and steer axle). He’s having problems casting them because the Alumilite Flex sets up way too quickly for him to get the results he wants. I don't know all the inside details, but he has cast other items (with regular Alumilite IIRC) and they've turned out fine. He won't be selling the tires as he intends to use them solely on his personal projects. Any tips on helping him improve his casts would be greatly appreciated.

How does it differ from posting a regular reply?

Very nice build with an interesting history. Must be nice to be able to buy fuel in a supermarket (Boxes labeled Sonnenblumenol = sunflower oil. Nice job on those too, BTW). What is the significance of the UN lettering on the doors? Diplomat's car?

I've got a concept in mind, but I'd rather not spend the money on the paint unless I can be sure the White Lightning will provide enough of a reflective background/base for the candy. I'm trying to avoid that "I shot candy over white styrene" look. If you've shot a candy over White Lightning, I'd appreciate your comments, pics etc.

I've got a firewall with some decent molded-in wiring and I'd like to see your opinions on the best procedure(s) for paint detailing small lines like these. The firewall will be painted flat black per factory specs, and I'll be supplying larger items such as heater hoses.

I haven't built mine yet. What body issues did you encounter? Yours looks great, BTW.

I've had that kit before, so I know some of the effort it took to make it look that sharp. Nice job!

Hi Steve! What part of "aksarben" are you from? I grew up out in the Panhandle. Welcome to the board. I look forward to seeing your builds, especially the red ones

I'm going to be attempting to replicate the red carpet you would find in a late 1970s GM product. I'm familiar with flocking techniques, but from what I've seen on here, embossing powders differ because you apply them to a white glue surface, then do a color wash over the powder when dry. Would I be better off buying colored powders? Where do you get these powders? (I have a Hobby Lobby nearby) Probably most importantly, what type of paint (enamel,acrylic) would you recommend I use for the "color wash". TIA for any tips, instructions, pics etc.

According to Google, this stuff's found only in the UK and Australia.

Lookin' good! Would you mind posting some engine and chassis shots?

I like what you've got going here so far. Can't wait for the next installment. Thanks for posting the setup pics for the pinstripe. I'm going to copy those over into my "how-to" files. I noticed you have several jars of HOK paint on your shelf. Have you figured out which reducer works best with them? Any pics of cars painted with them?