Monty

Doing some Google searching for some specific paints that I can't seem to find on the internet. 1) Polly Scale "Graphite" P/N 501999 from their Metalline Series. I bought the original bottle about 10 years ago, and it's about empty. There don't seem to be many places who carry Polly Scale paints, and I haven't found any that had this P/N. The Floquil version looks much too dark. 2) Polly S "Gray" P/N 500817 (label also shows 36622) These are specific shades that I've become accustomed to using for specific purposes over the years, so I'm hoping to find them again. All helpful responses appreciated.

Graphite Metallic as a detail paint? Interesting. I don't have access to the magazine. Can someone link me up to this article? (I tried a couple Google searches but only found older SA articles on grille detailing).

In addition to making the actual bracket, I'd like to know: 1) How can I make a realistic slot in the bracket for the tensioning nut? 2) What's the most realistic way to mount this bracket to the cylinder head? The goal is to make the bracket look like it's supporting the alternator (as opposed to the "magic fan belt"). I know there are P/E units out there, but in this case I'd rather build than buy.

I'm inclined to go with Brandywine, but I'm trying to figure out why you'd want to paint over flat black. While it will darken the top color, which I assume is what you want, it also typically dries with a much rougher surface than, say, a dark primer. IIRC, Bluemoose does most of his "red" paint jobs over gloss black.

Hmmm, something weird's going on. Hobby Lobby's online site still shows some service parts for Paasches, but no airbrushes. They used to sell Iwatas, and like an idiot, I never used the coupon to take advantage of it. The 40% off coupon is offered every other week in their Sunday ad. It's down on the bottom right hand side of the page. What are you going to run the brush off of? C02 tank? Air compressor?

The first airbrush I ever bought was a used Paasche VL (dual action). To me, being able to control the amount of air and paint simultaneously make it a far better choice than a single action. If you have a Hobby Lobby and one of their 40% off coupons, that same VL can be had for a ridiculous amount of money. A little internet shopping will uncover some fantastic bargains as well.

Honduras Red is a beautiful color, but it definitely leans toward the red end of the spectrum. My goal is finding something close to this:

In theory, it should be a beautiful color. In practice...well, I wish I could show some of the cars the guys on Spotlight Hobbies posted in regard to this subject. I want it to work. Between rods, customs, street machines and luxury cars, there's a need for a good burgundy paint. Best of luck with your project. Consensus seems to indicate the need for a very dark primer.

The model in question is MPC's 1982 Corvette, so no "chrome" is involved.

Originally - (1973?) Testors rattle can. More recently - Model Masters Jar. My point was that I wasn't thrilled with either "burgundy". I posted this same question over on the Spotlight Hobbies board and some people acknowledged that they'd had similar problems - ie the original Testors burgundy was too light in color and the MM stuff didn't cover well. I've airbrushed these metallics for years now, and this is the first one I haven't had a good experience with.

Actually, it's kind of a nice change to see one of those that isn't painted some shade of red. Got any more pics of the body/paint? It's looking good so far.

My most recent attempts were with the MM bottle stuff. I've always been leery of shooting a lighter color over black, but Bluemoose occasionally does it with Tamiya sprays and they always turn out nice. Looking at the pic you posted, it's hard to argue with the evidence. That's much closer to what I call burgundy. (Beautiful truck, BTW).

I tried a can of this stuff when I was a kid and was very disappointed because "burgandy" would've looked great on the kit I was painting. Instead, despite doing all the proper shaking and warm water preparation, the end result was more of a boat flake strawberry color. More recently, armed with my favorite airbrush, I grabbed a jar of the paint, reduced it per normal and shot it over white primer (looks weak) and gray primer (slightly more burgundy, but cloudy). I don't recall having problems with any of their other metallic enamels, so I'm puzzled. I'd appreciate any tips and accompanying pics of results.

I couldn't fathom working in that scale. Kudos to you for being able to do it so well. May I ask what color you used for the seats in the black one?

1) You may want to get some help loading pictures. There aren't any in your post. 2) Are you asking how much you could get for it if you were to sell it?

Bluemoose is nothing short of a rattle-can wizard. If you get a chance, take a look at his photo albums sometime. He also seems to have an aptitude for picking the "right" color for each of his models. Foiling refers to a technique whereby thin adhesive-backed foil is placed over specific areas on a model where you wish to replicate chrome or stainless steel trim. It's fairly common to see it used on the trim around windshields, rear windows and on fenders. With a little practice, you'll find it can also be used in much smaller areas. On most modeling boards, you'll commonly see it referred to as BMF or Bare Metal Foil. HTH

I read somewhere that engine guru John Lingenfelter was once an engineer at IH. Can you imagine what might've happened if he'd been given free rein over the engine dept? I'm thinking of songs about Internationals that the Beach Boys might have written... Be kinder to your binder It runs like glue (my 392) She's my little coupe Scout (I don't know what I bought) OK, back to reality. You did a great job on yours, especially the engine/underhood details. You're also correct that Testors Flaming Orange looks like a '70s color. I've still got one unbuilt one back in the closet somewhere...hmmm.

Jawohl, Herr Moderator! I regret my previous lack of respect, but I just found out you had your own magazine as well: http://globalnerdy.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2007/02/internet-tough-guy-magazine.gif I lived in four Midwest states before moving to Texas, and all started school in late August and ended in late May. Do I still have to shut my mouth, Majesty?

I'm guessing your hobby store sells either Humbrol or Testors enamels, so I'm curious as to what problems you actually experienced with them. Testors' Model Master range and Humbrol's Super Enamels offer finely ground pigments and a fairly extensive range of shades and colors. I'd venture to say that the vast majority of us started out with enamels and found them more than adequate for detailing purposes. Tamiya acrylics are nice, but in my experience, they require learning a "one-stroke" technique because, unlike an oil-based paint, acrylics don't respond well to being manipulated by a brush. They do airbrush nicely, especially with their reducer. Again, until we know what specific problem you had with the enamels, it'd be difficult to tell you whether you need to spend the money replacing them all with acrylics.

He once claimed that he "owned" a couple trucks and a car or two. Scale-Master called his bluff & asked to see the titles with Nick's name on them. Something tells me that Nick, a la O.J.Simpson, is still "looking". Your kids are still in school in the middle of June? Seriously?

I purchased Gunze Sangyo aqueous acrylics from these guys when G/S stopped selling them in the US awhile back. http://www.gosfordhobbies.com.au/ They're in Wyoming, NSW. They seem to have a great selection of supplies & kits.

Mark, I've been watching your tutorial, and I'm glad we're on the same page as far as wire-painting techniques go. I've been doing something similar for years - I use one of the brighter MM non-buffing Metalizers such as Aluminum and lightly brush it over the surface of the "wiring" on the firewall etc. (Sharp 10/0 brush required!) As you probably know, these paints are about twice as thin as a standard enamel, so they flow nicely and cover well without as much build-up to paint over. Plus, the brighter shades of the Metalizers allow shades like white, yellow and orange to be used more effectively. A friend of mine recently told me about the micro-tip Sharpies: http://www.sharpie.com/enUS/Product/Sharpie_Micro_Permanent_Marker.html They're about $6.00 for a set of 12 at Wallyworld, so they're not going to blow your modeling budget. I can definitely see them being useful for doing the wiring on lighter colored firewalls etc. The idea of adding your own wiring could provide excellent results provided you nail the scale and the routing of the molded-in wiring. Google images is your friend. My thanks to all who responded. I've been away from building for about 10 years and wanted to see if any radical changes in detailing techniques had occurred. I have recently started my "comeback kit" and I'm pleased to report I still seem to have my "chops". OTOH, I don't know jack about cameras or posting pics, so be prepared to walk me through that when the time comes.

My old boss had a metallic blue 928 - what a car. I like the direction you're taking this one. It looks sharp. May I ask what paint you used on the body?

That is one sharp Mercury! I don't think there's a better color combo for that car than the one you've chosen. Would I be correct in assuming it's the old AMT kit re-released by Model King a few years ago? The paint kinda looks like Tamiya Mica Red. (Am I even close? ?) I'd love to see some engine/chassis pictures if you have any.