Monty

Guys, I purchased several bottles of the WalMart HOK hobby paints when they were available. Unfortunately, HOK made their reducer in the same size bottles as their paints, so it was virtually impossible to ever find any. Have any of you found a reliable, readily available reducer for airbrushing? I'd prefer something I can find locally as opposed to buying online. The paint seems to be a hybrid (acrylic enamel?) and having no background in chemistry, I'm at a loss as to what might work best. I've seen some people say lacquer thinner works while others have said it just caused their paint to clump up. TIA for all helpful responses.

I agree that this board has some outstanding builders, but I've seen some good builders get blown off completely. This example still sticks in my mind because a very good modeler once found our board, posted several well done models, and, with the exception of my posts, was greeted by the cricket choir. I didn't know him, but he and I seemed to share an affinity for the same types of models. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.p...sult_type=posts I hope he found a board that would give him the time of day

I'm going to be replicating a 71-72 Mercury Cougar from my high school years. The car was stock, including whitewall tires. I'd like to find a set of whitewalls with a more realistic width than, say, AMT's Firestone Supremes. I'd prefer to buy these directly as opposed to trying to get them off Ebay. If you happen to have a Modelhaus part number that would work on this car, please let me know.

Very nice job! All you have to do to finish it is figure out a way to make the brakes squeak and the t-tops leak and have something vacuum-controlled unexpectedly go out (headlight pods are good for this) I liked your solution for replicating the dark mirrored t-tops, so I'd like to know what you'd suggest for some of the more silver-looking units (my 1:1 '80 has M92As which are definitely a silver-mirrored surface). PS I think I saw you over on the C3 section of corvetteforum.com earlier!

According to Myles' post above, it's a PPG product, so I assume you could find it at a 1:1 car paint jobber. Check the 'net or your local Yellow Pages. Unfortunately, with my new job it's going to be awhile before I get to shoot any paint. Good luck with yours. Post pics!

I bought several jars of HOK enamels when they came out, but the airbrush reducer was always out of stock. I'd like to find a reducer that can be purchased locally on a same-day basis, as opposed to mail order. And, not to be a jerk but, if you don't actually know the answers from personal experience, I'd rather you didn't speculate on what "might work". The paint is kinda pricey, so i'd rather not experiment till I found the answer. My questions are: 1) Will ModelMaster airbrush reducer give me as good a finish as HOK's? 2) I know a few people who reduce enamels (especially Humbrol) with lacquer thinner; anyone tried it on these HOK paints? If you've used any of their paints, please post pics and tell me which colors you used. Thanks!

Very nice! Been a while since I've seen pics of a built one. Couple questions if ya don't mind: 1) What all did you have to do to make the steering poseable? 2) Do you have some interior shots? I'm curious as to how people are detailing hte dash. Thanks!

Scott, you and I have almost identical tastes as far as models go. I have kits of the models you've built on my to-do list; here's hoping mine turn out half as well. I like everything you've posted, and I really like your Rivieras, the big Merc as well as the Little Red Express from your other post, but that Cougar just seems to stand out. Any chance you'd consider showing us some engine/interior/chassis shots on these cars? Just out of curiosity (and for the sake of a future project), where did you find the metallic brown paint you used on the Mustand II?

Hey Floyd, do you shuffle like a constipated bear when you walk?

Oh, if only I weren't such a Luddite. Sometimes I think I'm the only person on the planet without a digital camera. Pics? I have none. Views? I have plenty :wink: One thing I really miss is Testors' original Ford Engine blue (#2727), which was darker than their current iteration (Ford/GM engine blue). It was the closest match I'd seen to the shade on my dad's 390s and my Mustang's 351C.

I was a Mustang freak when Monogram first released the Boss 429. I remember wondering who @ Monogram actually approved the box art with the "goldfish-eyes" headlight treatment. Luckily I had tons of Mustang magazines around for references, so mine didn't look nearly as childish. As you mentioned, this cover shot has resulted in numereous imitators, all because they assume he got it correct. I guess I just assumed that even the average builder did a little research on the subject at hand before starting on it. It's funny that you posted this when you did; I'd been considering this subject for the Rants-n-Raves section. Thanks for your help in spreading the word!

Jeff, I agree with you regarding the MPC 'Vettes. It's hard to beat the fully rotating halfshafts or the poseable steering, and I think the MPC small block Chevy is better than the one in the Revellogram Pace car, although I wish MPC had made it with the dual snorkel air cleaner and finned valve covers (L-82). I've been wanting to do a replica of my 1:1 '80 - The Scarlet Snail, but I've never found a good way to replicate the mirrored (but translucent) t-tops What are you using to mask around the fenderwells?

As a kid, I built an AMT Freightliner COE w/ sleeper and I've always wanted to do another one. I was told on one model forum that there had been a copyright issue over the White Freightliner name, but that's apparently been resolved since a daycab Freightliner COE was released in the last year or so. So, any idea if the molds for the COE w/ sleeper are still intact? I can't afford the car payments these things sometimes bring on Evil-Bay... :cry: PS I suck @ scratchbuilding, so I don't wanna buy the daycab version and try to modify it.

Jeff, I like how your engine came out but I'm looking for the darker blue (sometimes called Corporate blue). If you're saying the acrylic Ford/GM engine blue starts out too dark, maybe I'll start there... I winder if real engine enamels would be too hot or too thick for this :?

1) Years ago, Testors Model Master paints included #2727, which was Ford Engine blue. Sometime since then, they changed this to Ford/GM engine blue, which is considerably lighter in color. Growing up. we had nothing but Fords, so I know what color I'm looking for. Where can I find real Ford engine blue in a hobby enamel (or good acrylic)? 2) If I wanted to do a 3-color car with Tamiya lacquers, spraying the lightest coat first etc, how long do I need to wait to mask and shoot the 2nd and 3rd colors? PS This looks like an awesome board. Glad I stumbled across it!