Monty

Long story short, I had to leave a lot of personal items in a friend's storage unit in Dallas so I could take care of a drastic situation 1,000 miles away. It looks like I'm going to be here for an extended amount of time, and I was wondering what it might take to get my models up here. They're currently in huge (roughly 3'x3') moving boxes, and assuming UPS or USPS would ship them, I'm betting the cost would be astronomical. (One medium-sized box with some important papers etc cost me $27.00) As you probably already understand, the weight won't be much, but the box dimensions seem to preclude the usual shipping methods. Should I look into moving companies? LTL freight? Don't laugh, I'm just out of good ideas. TIA for any helpful ideas.

I agree. Both look great, Tim. Would you mind telling me which exact blue paint (mfr & p/n etc) you used?

You're correct in saying that this kit can offer a challenge or two in the quest to attain an accurate replica of an SC/Rambler, but occasionally modelers have to adopt the Marine attitude of Adapt, Improvise and Overcome. About a year or two ago, board member Brian Fowler (Monoped) built one of the best SC/Ramblers I've ever seen. I keep hoping he'll see this thread and post his build just to show what can be done with that kit. Unfortunately, due to the Photobucket fiasco, the pictures no longer show up here, but you can tell he did his due diligence as far as research was concerned. Google images can be invaluable for details like engine, headrest and wheel colors. Nailing things like these will go a long way toward making any model look more realistic, which to me is the goal.

I wouldn't mind staying in the realm of hobby paints, but if you've used something else (Dupli-Color, crafts paints etc) let me know. Pics of kits built using the paint you recommend would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for the pics. Stuff like this is immensely helpful for nailing down all the engine bay details. It looks like setting up the headlight assemblies will be one of the biggest challenges to resolve. Love the pic of that Riviera too. My first car was a '72 Skylark that looked almost exactly like this, but without the sunroof option. This may sound like a lame question, but have you found a hobby paint that's really close to Buick engine red?

Glad I asked. I forgot about the change from the nailhead series to the later series. In your opinion, is this the best 1/25 Buick engine I can stick in the '69? As far as detailing goes, I rely heavily on Google pictures. No amber if GM didn't put it there. Thanks again!

Don't both 1:1 cars have an X-type chassis? I'm not sure the Chevelle unit would be the best choice if accuracy matters.

I hate promo-type chassis plates like those on the '69 Riviera, so I was wondering if the '66 chassis could be made to work. Assuming it can be made to work, how accurate will the result be?

I'm beggin' ya, please tell me the manufacturer & part number for that paint.

I've just completed a trade with one of our members, br67 (Brandon Robertson), who happened to have the rare item I was after and sent it all the way from South Africa. It showed up today in perfect condition. It's members like that who make this board a great place.

I saw where Revell is coming out with a '69 Mustang Boss 302 based in part on their old SCJ Mustang. Revell's Ed Sexton says they "fixed" the front end, which is good news, but I don't want to buy a bunch of new kits just to get the corrected grille etc. I'm wondering if Revell would stop any such attempt in order to prevent any loss of sales.

I'm guessing it would be the larger ones. I remember them being in my '76 Impala kit, but they also stuck that same size in their late '70s - early '80s Corvettes. I think the old Modelhaus P/N was T-425, and they're roughly the size of the old Stevens International whitewalls.

I've been doing some pre-build research on '65 Galaxies and noticed that the headlight bezels are more of a dull silver color. Any recommendations on what paint would be best for this? It'll need to be the right shade plus not show brush marks. Also, what's the best tool for removing the molded-in exhaust from the chassis? I'd like to do this without removing much/any of the other chassis detailing if possible.

If memory serves, these were based on the Goodyear tires MPC used in so many kits over the years.

Welcome to our board! That's quite an impressive array of builds you've posted. My compliments on your paint and assembly work. I couldn't help but notice your MPC '80 Corvette, as this was mine for 20 years. It looks like you were able to "carpet" the area behind the seats. Do you have any WIP pics of that process? I tried using embossing powder, but couldn't seem to get it to cover evenly.

Kevin, thanks for the response. Would it be possible to cast another boot separately? Please PM me with cost of body, shipping etc. Thanks!

Back in the '60s, my parents and my older brother owned '65 ragtops, and I'd like to do at least one of those cars. If one isn't available in resin, what will it take to accurately modify the AMT kit?

While Revell's new '70 Charger has a lot going for it, one variant of their '69 Charger had posable steering, a feature I really like. 1) If someone has both kits and can compare them, how hard would it be to use the '69's front suspension on the '70 so it would have posable steering? 2) I'm told the Revell '69 Charger sits a little high in the front. If I were to make this suspension swap, how can I avoid this?

Thanks, Casey!

Interesting. I guess I could saw the front end off and attach it to the original '69 body with the fender scoops, as I don't intend on building the Boss 302. If you don't mind me asking, do you happen to have a link to where you got this info? Given all the model info I read, I can't believe I missed this.

My apologies in advance for digging up this old thread, but I'm still hoping to see more results since the '69 Mustang is one of my favorite cars of all time, and I want to replicate one as closely as possible. As I understand it, the Revell kit is very good in most respects, but that front end kept me from ever even starting on it. I'm just curious if anyone else bought this upgrade and installed it. Pics would be greatly appreciated.

If you've ever built the Monogram '70 Boss 429, you've probably noticed how small the master cylinder was, not to mention the goofy upside down U-shaped brake booster. 1) Did this garbage carry over to Revell's '70 Mach 1? 2) If so, would the master cylinder/brake booster from the Revell '70 Torino be a correct replacement for both of these cars? 3) Will it fit in the Boss 429's engine bay? If memory serves, those heads and valve covers take up a of of space.

Kudos on the paint color you've chosen for the body. It's going to look spectacular with those wheels and tires. I hope you won't mind a nudge for the sake of accuracy: you'll need to turn those valve covers the other way around so the bolts are 3 up and 4 down. See pic.

I realize we have an airbrush expert with his own review page among our members, but I'd like to hear about other members' experiences with this item. I'm particularly intrigued by its use of a single needle (instead of 3 separate ones) for all paints, and I'm curious to know how well that works for those who've used one. I'd appreciate it if we could keep all comments centered on the Anthem 155, as that's the only Badger I'm currently considering buying.

IIRC, these are Appliance Diamag wheels made in the early '70s. Were they ever included in any 1/24 or 1/25 kits? Their spokes are different from the optional wheels (Wiremags?) in the AMT '66 Mustang.