Fat Brian

Two of the worst, most disappointing kits I've ever bought were the recent reissue of AMTs old 69 Daytona kit and their 55 Corvette. Those two wastes of plastic should have never seen the light of day again.

I found something that says it's September 22 in Morganton NC. http://www.hamptonro...ar_20120722.pdf Here is a link to a flier I found. http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=7&ved=0CFEQFjAG&url=http%3A%2F%2Fipmseaglesquadron.org%2FES-forums%2Findex.php%3Faction%3Ddlattach%3Btopic%3D996.0%3Battach%3D1004&ei=nHhFULKwL4Sc9QTCjoHwAg&usg=AFQjCNGyo3Jb2owaz5VJdtaMdkmHb2qFIw

Since you want to build a tubbed chassis car next I would suggest to you Revells excellent 67 Chevelle prostreet kit. This kit practically falls together with the on fiddly bits being the rear end assembly but it's not too bad. You could also probably still find AMTs prostreet 70 Coronet fairly easy since it was out recently too. If you are looking for something more race than street Revell has recently had a 55 sportsman kit out also.

Check out all the stuff available at these sites: http://www.ppvintagekits.com/index.html http://www.auslowe.com.au/index.php?option=com_content&view=frontpage&Itemid=1 http://www.freewebs.com/mmtaer/truckparts.htm http://www.aitruckmodels.com/pages/kitsparts.html

I just want to point out that there is nothing wrong with using the Hobby Lobby coupon. The kit manufacturer still gets their regular wholesale price for the kit and evidently Hobby Lobby gets enough to make it worth their while or they wouldn't keep making them.

The best place to find sanding implements is a local beauty supply store. Pick up nail files in various grits, shapes, and sizes on the cheap, twenty dollars should get you a wide assorment.

At least you would never run out of room in the Tardis.

No, there doesn't have to be drying time between coats but there can be. Number of coats doesn't really matter as long as you have good even coverage and a smooth surface. The only time number of coats comes in to play is in candy colors but the actual number isn't nearly as important as getting to the color depth you want. Another thing to consider is whether you paint with an airbrush or a rattle can. Cans are like a firehose of paint and put down much heavier coats than an airbrush, what may take four or five airbrush coats may take two with a can. The most important thing is to come up with a style of painting that works best for the type of paint you like to use.

I had got some two holes off of ebay a few months ago but the still aren't here so I'm looking for some other options.

I hold the jar with an adjustable wrench if it's a squarish shape so I don't bear on it while turning the lid with pliers or channel locks.

Do those wheels fit other 1/25 tires?

I consider it a new coat everytime I let the paint flash and then paint again.

I would try different base colors until you find the effect you want, you could try different yellows and oranges until one pops for you.

My stash is growing again, without a place to work all I can do is buy. Mine stands around 200+/-, I have some 1/72 armour and aircraft I haven't counted in a while so I'm not sure exactly how big it is.

No drama, you have to protect your business.

Great, I just like to check these things out first.

Some kits have aftermarket sleeper and other have sleepers made by the truck manufacturer, how can you tell the difference? I know the Mercury sleepers in the Diamond Reo, White Western Star, and Road Boss are aftermarket But what about the sleeprs in the IH 4300 and GMC General and the Italeri Superliner? Also, how sacreligious is it to mix brands of cabs and sleepers? I want to build a modernized 4300 with a larger sleeper and I bought the frame, engine, and sleeper from the Revell 353/359 kit to use but it appears to have Pete brand sleeper and I didn't want to do anything that is frowned upon.

Very good information, thank you.

I've tried building for people and I don't enjoy it. For some reason when I have a project I should be working on it becomes the absolute last thing I want to spend time on. And then there is the dealing with people part, God I hate people.

And this is an important point, some car modelers don't even have a firm grasp on how cars work but build them as art more than a realistic represetation of a vehicle. In cases like this scale fidelity is less important than having the right "look" for a project. This is a freedom armour and aircraft modelers don't have so having an accurate representation becomes far more important.

This car raises a question for me. For years we've been told that a correct Mopar model has body color overspray on the bottom of the car. Well, this car doesn't have even a hint of overspray on it and might be the best preserved Mopar ever. Where is the over spray, or has it's presence been grossly overstated?

Wow, they are very fortunate.

For some reason most car modelers aren't as concerned with scale fidelity as other groups. Armour and aircraft guys will scream bloody murder if this part or that part is a millimeter too long or too short, but somewhere along the line we learned to accept flawed kits. I wonder if it is because car modelers mostly build custom vehicles and modify the kits greatly and are thus more acommodating of incorrect kits. I mean, there are only so many ways to build a Sherman or Spitfire but a car kit has endless possibilities.

I seem to remember it being between $25 and $30.

I've heard it so many ways I'm not sure what it started out as.