cchapman195

Great post here Ace. I never thought knowing this would be necessary but I enjoyed learning very much. Videos were cool to watch as well.

Beautiful car and great tip. Thank you so much.

Hello everybody. Here is a link to my page. I created it to keep in touch with other builders and to show off my work. Please click on the link and then click like on the page to stay informed of any new models I plan to add. Thanks again for such a great site. www.facebook.com/pages/Chapmans-Model-Cars/386265398106929

I use A1 Totally Awesome. It is $1-$3 depending on size of bottle. Strips chrome and paint and usually in a few hours. Great, cheap, solution plus it is a great all around home cleaner as well.

I'm not sure what has happened. My local hobby shop was having a sale on Pactra Racing Finish paint. $1.00 a bottle. I was assured this paint is good on model body cars as well as lexan body's. I bought the premix outlaw black to put down as a base before I put HOK Orion silver metallic then top coat with Burgundy Metallic. I sprayed a thin mist coat that came out like small pieces of cloth. I let it dry for 15 minutes and did another coat and now I was getting little cob web like buildup in the window corners. I sprayed a heavy coat and the whole thing looked as if it were a giant cob web. I blew air from my ab at 20 psi and it started to blow the paint off in areas where it did not stick. Sorry for such a long winded explanation but more info may help me to understand what has happened here. Any ideas or explanations of what caused this would help from anyone that may know why. thx in advance for any help.

No Press N Seal is different as it is always tacky. This you have to stretch to activate and it kinda shrinks to the body so it wraps nicely. I had Press and Seal leave a gluey film on a perfect body before that I could not get off. The body had sat in a box wrapped in paper towels for 2 years before I got it out and finished so I know it was not that the body was still wet. Never had a problem with parafilm except I put it on a body and then put it in a dehydrator. Definitely a NO NO.

Parafilm is a film that when you stretch it it becomes tacky and will stick to surfaces. I do a lot of engine details and window trim. After I paint a body and polish it out I put Parafilm down the sides and across the top as to not scratch, nick or get finger prints all over it as I do engine detail. Just pull it off and rub it down and it will be protected. Here is one I just rapped up. Unfortunately I cannot keep face prints off of it.

Very nice. I like simple, especially when it looks so good.

If you like the red stripe on the tires you can mask them off with tape. Use acrylic paint so it sticks then hit them with a light coat of satin clear to seal it and give them a nice sheen.

I likey alotey!!!!! I do believe the red center cap would look great. Any thoughts of red wall stripes on the tires as well. If I remember right that kit came with thin red stripes for the tires on the decal sheet.

Great tip. As it turns out I am starting the interior on a new model today. Guess what I am going to do first?

I am working on a few models that will be done within the next week. I will post some pics of shiny's for those that would like more pics.

Way nice George, thanks for the link.

Thanks Monty, that's a nice rig. Pearl Powders are amazing to use. I believe I am going to order Jacquard Lumiere Acrylics and give them a try. At 2.25 oz for $3.76 it's worth trying.

I was wondering if anybody has tried Jacquard Lumiere Acrylics? and what kind of results they produce. http://www.dickblick...miere-acrylics/ They have a great variety and can be used with an airbrush. I use there pearl ex powders and love the results I get from them. they are pretty cheap as well.

Mark, As long as the paint you are using is of the same type(Enamel, Acrylic, Lacquer) you can mix them together. "Universal" means that it can be used in any or most applications. Just remember to mix the paint real well then do a 2 parts paint to 1 part thinner if you are going to airbrush the paint. Good luck and post pics if you get a chance.

Thanks everybody for the kind words. This was a box stock kit. So the power windows and tire came with the kit. I am completing a Dodge Superbee today and will have pics posted tomorrow of it. Thanks for everyone that has left tips and tutorials on the forums here. Those are what helped me take my models to the next step.

just finished her up today. I hope you like it.

Great job on both cars. Very clean.

Very nice build there.

Plowboy, I am glad you like it. When it comes to the tail lights I thought the same thing but when I tried to line them up they would not fit. I filed them down so they could go inside from behind but they were very thin. I bought another model for the taillights and same thing so I figured they had to go on outside. I just got out that other kit and looked at the back panel and it is a whole lot larger on the opening for the tail lights. I guess I should have filed panel instead of lights. I guess I will just call it unique lol.

Thx guy's. The tires are MRC. I love what they do to muscle cars. The paint is my first attempt with color changing paints both on body and flames. As it turned out the "ghost flames" was just a lucky holy ###### how did I do that scenario.

The flame mask came from RPM Hobby's. They made a bunch of great masks at one time but got more into RC vehicles and do not carry the mask's anymore Thanks for all the nice comments. Means a lot.

I just finished up a 1969 Dodge Charger model. I thought I would share it with the people that helped me make it what it is, You here on the forums. I thank all of you that has posted tips and how to's to help me in my builds. If there is anything you see that I can improve please let me know. Thx for looking.