Sealing Testors Metalizers

[johnbuzzed]

For those who use Testors Metalizers: What do you use to seal and protect the Metalizer that will neither dull the finish nor give it a way-too-glossy shine?

[Kit Basher]

I think Testors Metalizer Sealer works pretty well. It only takes a tiny bit, and I can't tell the difference in appearance with or without it.

[Foxer]

I think Testors Metalizer Sealer works pretty well. It only takes a tiny bit, and I can't tell the difference in appearance with or without it.

ditto

[Longbox55]

I generally do not seal metalizer, the clear will take away from the final finish, especially on the buffing type. For the most part, parts I use metalizer on will not be touched by anything once installed, so extra protection isn't really necessary.

[Ace-Garageguy]

If you shoot your buffing metalizer slick, and polish it so it actually looks like polished metal instead of grainy silverish stuff, I guarantee 100% that the Testors "sealer" will RUIN the effect.

After the "sealer" it simply looks like silver paint. I'm a real picky SOB when it comes to faux finishes.

It's possible that a water-based clear could work over polished metalizer without destroying the effect, but I've tried just about every solvent-based clear I could think of, including hair spray and fixative for charcoal drawings. They all muddy it, so far.

[StevenGuthmiller]

If you shoot your buffing metalizer slick, and polish it so it actually looks like polished metal instead of grainy silverish stuff, I guarantee 100% that the Testors "sealer" will RUIN the effect.

After the "sealer" it simply looks like silver paint. I'm a real picky SOB when it comes to faux finishes.

It's possible that a water-based clear could work over polished metalizer without destroying the effect, but I've tried just about every solvent-based clear I could think of, including hair spray and fixative for charcoal drawings. They all muddy it, so far.

I've had the exact same experience with it.

Steve

[Mike_G]

I've had the exact same experience with it.

Steve

Me too. The sealer utterly destroys the shine. If it's buffed-out to the max, it doesn't really need to be sealed.

The aluminum plate metalizer gets the closest to chrome IMO, but is very fragile- it's real easy to go just a little too far with it.

Stainless steel metalizer is a bit more forgiving in that respect.

[fseva]

It's possible that a water-based clear could work over polished metalizer without destroying the effect, but I've tried just about every solvent-based clear I could think of, including hair spray and fixative for charcoal drawings. They all muddy it, so far.

I've heard that is what Alclad recommends, but I've never seen a 100% pure acrylic clear, and I think that's what would be needed, if you want to keep metalizers looking like metalizers. Even Alclad's Aqua Gloss isn't 100% clear, and that's why it can't produce a real high gloss; so, it must have other things in it that will also muddy up metalizers.

Personally, I think Alclad recommended Aqua Gloss because they got tired of all the questions about which clear coat you should use on their Chrome - this was the least harmful and it would require you to buy another of their products. A no-brainer recommendation... from a business perspective...

If anyone knows of a truly 100% high gloss acrylic, I'd love to hear about it... trying to get a high gloss out of acrylics is why I gave up on acrylics as base coats. So, if there is an acrylic out there that will give me a high gloss like Testors One-Coat, I'll try it, and if what you say is true, I would gladly give up all the toxic chemicals I've been using on my cars!

Edited April 8, 2015 by fseva

[Ace-Garageguy]

PPG and other real-car refinish-material manufacturers have several lines of water-borne products for VOC-strict markets like Cali and others. I have NOT tried any yet.

http://master.ppgrefinish.com/en/about-us/news/2012/06/new-improved-d8186-waterborne-clearcoat/

Edited April 8, 2015 by Ace-Garageguy

[johnbuzzed]

I've heard that is what Alclad recommends, but I've never seen a 100% pure acrylic clear, and I think that's what would be needed, if you want to keep metalizers looking like metalizers. Even Alclad's Aqua Gloss isn't 100% clear, and that's why it can't produce a real high gloss; so, it must have other things in it that will also muddy up metalizers.

Personally, I think Alclad recommended Aqua Gloss because they got tired of all the questions about which clear coat you should use on their Chrome - this was the least harmful and it would require you to buy another of their products. A no-brainer recommendation... from a business perspective...

If anyone knows of a truly 100% high gloss acrylic, I'd love to hear about it... trying to get a high gloss out of acrylics is why I gave up on acrylics as base coats. So, if there is an acrylic out there that will give me a high gloss like Testors One-Coat, I'll try it, and if what you say is true, I would gladly give up all the toxic chemicals I've been using on my cars!

Future floor finish, perhaps?

[johnbuzzed]

If you shoot your buffing metalizer slick, and polish it so it actually looks like polished metal instead of grainy silverish stuff, I guarantee 100% that the Testors "sealer" will RUIN the effect.

After the "sealer" it simply looks like silver paint. I'm a real picky SOB when it comes to faux finishes.

It's possible that a water-based clear could work over polished metalizer without destroying the effect, but I've tried just about every solvent-based clear I could think of, including hair spray and fixative for charcoal drawings. They all muddy it, so far.

That's the same experience that I've had with the sealer. I have used Dullcote over Metalizer to get a different effect/texture and it looks good, but I don't want a glossy, painted-on metal look, especially for Titanium .

[fseva]

Future floor finish, perhaps?

I should give that one a try...

[fseva]

Well, "The Buzzard" recommended Future Floor Finish as a possible clearcoat for chrome paints, and I thought that was a great idea. So, I ran a test on a spoon that had been airbrushed with Ultimate Chrome several days ago. I covered the left half of the spoon with blue painters tape... here are my results...

As you can easily see, the FFF definitely cut down on the shine! Not something I would do to protect a shiny finish...

Oh and BTW, the tape also did some damage to the chrome!

Spaz Stix recommends their own clearcoat for their chrome... I may try a test of that as well, although I hold out no hope that it will be any better than FFF - I remember trying it a long time ago and being disappointed with the results...

[fseva]

PPG and other real-car refinish-material manufacturers have several lines of water-borne products for VOC-strict markets like Cali and others. I have NOT tried any yet.

Well, I don't see how this is going to help hobbyists... the PPG clearcoat is a 3-part mix, and it requires a 1.3mm spray gun to apply. It also seems to require a "bake" cycle.

[Exotics_Builder]

If you shoot your buffing metalizer slick, and polish it so it actually looks like polished metal instead of grainy silverish stuff, I guarantee 100% that the Testors "sealer" will RUIN the effect.

After the "sealer" it simply looks like silver paint. I'm a real picky SOB when it comes to faux finishes.

It's possible that a water-based clear could work over polished metalizer without destroying the effect, but I've tried just about every solvent-based clear I could think of, including hair spray and fixative for charcoal drawings. They all muddy it, so far.

Exactly for the buffing versions. It will work for the non-buffing but I don;t bother. Allclad acrylic clear works well on Alclad, but I haven't tried it yet on Metalizer.

Edited April 8, 2015 by Exotics_Builder

[Longbox55]

Another thing about those waterborne paints/clears, they are NOT like the water based acrylics you see on the hobby shelves. While they are waterborne, that is more about less VOCs than necessarily being less toxic to the painter. From what I understand, they're actually more toxic, and do require specialized PPE to use. Note the getup that the painter is using in Aces video.

[Quick GMC]

the finish and effect of Metalizers comes from the surface. If you cover that surface with ANYTHING, it is going to take away from that finish. It's just that simple. It's an effect on the surface. not a color. If you were trying to preserve the color, without caring what the surface finish looked like, you can clear it.

If you clear it, you will kill it.

[Ace-Garageguy]

Well, I don't see how this is going to help hobbyists... the PPG clearcoat is a 3-part mix, and it requires a 1.3mm spray gun to apply. It also seems to require a "bake" cycle.

I suppose it just depends on the level the "hobbyist" is operating at. I routinely use 1:1 products, materials and tools for model work. That's just me, but knowledge is power. I put info up. Nobody HAS to use it, but it might get ideas flowing.

A "bake cycle" is pretty easy to arrange too, with a hair dryer blowing into a box, and a thermostatic control. Simple stuff.

Edited April 8, 2015 by Ace-Garageguy

[JohnnyK]

I should give that one a try...

I used FFF on my 1:12 scale Trumpeter Ford GT as a final gloss finish. I would never try that again!!! First of all, the final finish looks too thick and it does not develop a realy deep shine. Worst, some areas of the car developde micro-cracks in the FFF. The cracks are only visible under certain lighting angles; However, I know that they are there.