Harry P. Posted June 1, 2015 Author Share Posted June 1, 2015 That roof structure detail can't be seen unless you turn the model upside down, but for what it's worth... it's in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobraman Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 Very convincing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twokidsnosleep Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 (edited) Rather the smart way out with the spare I really like the interior roof detail....is very convincing. You could have said you made that by bending all those little bits of wood and I would have believed it. Edited June 1, 2015 by Twokidsnosleep Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaxenro Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 (edited) Don't know if you found any rifles but look for 120mm weapons same as 1:16 but figures are usually listed under 120mm not 1:16 Like here http://www.djparkins.com/acatalog/120mm_Weapons.html Edited June 1, 2015 by jaxenro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjordan2 Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 (edited) Fabulous roof, especially the interior part. As for the spare tire wheel covers, I can't say I've seen fabric covers that go over the entire wheel. I've seen fabric covers over tires but not wheels. I'll repeat my offer to send you two complete PII wheels if you'll clean up an SS 100 gauge photo that I can make decals from, plus the steering wheel hub art for the Mercedes SS. I have good base art, but I just can't clean them up sharply in my apps. These Jaguar gauges just need to have a white background with blue gauge printing and the red pie slice. . This goes on the 1/16 Mercedes steering hub you already did. I have a somewhat larger hub for my kit. Edited June 1, 2015 by sjordan2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted June 1, 2015 Author Share Posted June 1, 2015 The Pocher RR Sedanca has a fully covered spare. I think they modeled the kit on a specific car, so that may not be "typical," but I guess there were covers like that. I already made the covered spares, so too late to take you up on your offer. But I can still do the part about cleaning up the gauges and steering wheel hub. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted June 1, 2015 Author Share Posted June 1, 2015 Don't know if you found any rifles but look for 120mm weapons same as 1:16 but figures are usually listed under 120mm not 1:16 Like here http://www.djparkins.com/acatalog/120mm_Weapons.html See post #126... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaxenro Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 "See post #126" missed that detail - nice job ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted June 2, 2015 Author Share Posted June 2, 2015 A few front end details. All "chrome" is Spaz Stix. The radiator hoses aren't connected to the radiator yet... still waiting for the radiator/shell to dry completely first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted June 2, 2015 Author Share Posted June 2, 2015 The hinges have arrived from Hong Kong... Now I can hinge the doors and finish up this project. The trick here is to cut the mortises for the hinges just deep enough so that the hinge leaves will sit exactly flush with the surface of the post. If I was working on a real woody, I'd make these mortises with a router, but in 1/16 scale world, a sharp X-acto and a steady hand are what's needed. Each door has three hinges... that's 12 mortises I'll have to cut into the doors (3 per door) and 12 into the door posts (6 per post). So I have to cut 24 individual mortises, each one perfect (or as close to perfect as I can get). I have some woodworking to do! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ognib Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 Really like your work, Harry. The top turned out very well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted June 2, 2015 Author Share Posted June 2, 2015 The door posts are easy to work with... they're just solid pieces of wood, very sturdy. I can carve the mortises in them without worrying about breaking them. But the doors are another story. They are made of many separate parts, and are not necessarily "fragile" but still, I worry about snapping a glue joint while carving the mortises... so I use two thick scraps of wood and clamp the door between them, just exposing the door's edge where the mortises will go. Now I can hold the door between the wood pieces and not have any chance of snapping or breaking the door as I carve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjordan2 Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 (edited) How would you apply that process to plastic kits like the SS100 or Phantom II, which don't come with door hinges? Edited June 2, 2015 by sjordan2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted June 2, 2015 Author Share Posted June 2, 2015 It would vary from kit to kit. Depending on the shape and configuration of the doors, it might be possible to create hinge mortises in the body and doors with a very fine-tipped Dremel grinding bit... it might be easier to scratchbuild styrene door posts by layering thinner pieces together but leaving gaps to create the mortises... it might be possible to cut away the jamb and replace with sheet styrene pieces cut to shape, etc... it all depends on the specific kit, how it's engineered, and how/where the doors are hinged. On this particular kit it's relatively easy to hinge the doors, because the hinge posts are separate pieces (as they also were with the stock body), and because the doors are straight on the hinge side. Doors with curved openings on the hinge side would be trickier to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Art Anderson Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 Harry, I've been watching this build with great interest, not because I would build in 1/12 scale, but because I'd really like to try my hand at doing a 1/25 scale woodie body in real wood. Believe it or not, a miniature vertical mill, such as a Sherline, can also mill small wood parts! I learned that by experimentation on my '13 T Runabout, the wooden dashboard having its edges milled to accept half-round styrene, and recessed locating slots cut into the wood for mounting such as the hood former and cowl lamps. Believe me, I will be playing around with my mill on other projects where wood is to be a part of the model project. BTW, your Rolls Royce Shooting Brake is looking very grand! Now, you need to think of a Hunting Brake as well! After all, you have to transport your retrievers to the hunt, you know, and perhaps foxhounds to the next fox hunt! Art Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted June 2, 2015 Author Share Posted June 2, 2015 Art, I'll be happy to get out of this one alive! No way am I going to do another one, not at this scale at least (1/16). But what I do plan to do is use this one as a "learning experience" and eventually turn the Pocher RR "Star of India" into a woody. Working at twice this size (1/8), I think it'll be a lot easier. Also I'll have the mistakes I made on this one to refer to, and know how not to do certain steps next time. And I'll have a better handle on what sorts of joints to use where, specific order of assembly, etc. This one (in 1/16) is my "training woody"... the next one (in 1/8) will be the "real" one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjordan2 Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 (edited) BTW, your Rolls Royce Shooting Brake is looking very grand! Now, you need to think of a Hunting Brake as well! After all, you have to transport your retrievers to the hunt, you know, and perhaps foxhounds to the next fox hunt! Art Do you have some reference for that? I really want to get it right. Never heard the term "hunting brake" used in relation to these cars, only in the literal French translation of shooting brake as "break de chasse." http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shooting-brake Edited June 2, 2015 by sjordan2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted June 2, 2015 Author Share Posted June 2, 2015 The way I understand it, a "shooting brake" referred to a car designed to carry a hunt party, their guns, and dogs (and maybe their kills back home). I also haven't heard the term "hunting brake"... but wouldn't that describe essentially the same type of car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted June 2, 2015 Author Share Posted June 2, 2015 A brand new shooting brake... http://www.mercedes-amg.com/cls63sb.php?lang=eng#vehicle_overview_section Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken Gilkeson Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 fabulous job Harry, wonderful subject matter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Art Anderson Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 The way I understand it, a "shooting brake" referred to a car designed to carry a hunt party, their guns, and dogs (and maybe their kills back home). I also haven't heard the term "hunting brake"... but wouldn't that describe essentially the same type of car? Hunting Brakes were vehicles specifically made for supporting fox hunting. A Hunting Brake may look very much like any other woodie, but instead of being set up to transport fishing gear, or shotguns, hunting brakes were constructed with kennels, for hauling foxhounds to the hunt. Art Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted June 2, 2015 Author Share Posted June 2, 2015 Hunting Brakes were vehicles specifically made for supporting fox hunting. A Hunting Brake may look very much like any other woodie, but instead of being set up to transport fishing gear, or shotguns, hunting brakes were constructed with kennels, for hauling foxhounds to the hunt. Art Makes sense. Thanks! I googled "hunting brake" and it kept bringing up references to "shooting brake." No "hunting brake" info came up. A "hunting brake" would make a nice companion piece to this model... but that's more work than I want to take on! How about you, Art? You mentioned wanting to try a real wood woody. Sounds like the perfect project for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted June 2, 2015 Author Share Posted June 2, 2015 I'm having problems with hinging the doors. Each door has three hinges, and in order for the door to open smoothly, all three of the hinge pins have to be in perfect alignment, otherwise there will be binding. In 1/16 scale, getting these hinges in perfect alignment is hard to do. The hinges themselves are very "tight" to begin with, there is no slop or play in them, and they don't operate very easily... it takes some effort to open and close them. If there was some slop, they wouldn't have to be perfectly aligned; the slop in the hinges would allow for some imperfection in alignment. But because there is no margin for error, I'm finding that once the hinges are glued in place, when I try to operate the door some of the hinges are just popping out of their mortises... the CA bond isn't strong enough to hold them in place if there is any stress on them as the door opens or closes. I'm trying to finesse things, trying to realign things as best as I can... but it's frustrating, to say the least. I'll keep trying, but I think I might ultimately have to get some cheaper hinges with more slop and looser tolerances to get the doors to work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
southpier Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 is there enough wood to use a piece of upset brass rod in the hinge holes? or an escutcheon pin? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill w Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 Get the appropriate diameter wire and slide one side of the hinge ( all three) onto the wire and glue them to the door. Then take out the wire and attach the other side of the hinges and glue to the door pillar. They should open and close smoothly! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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