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Posted

hello....been out of the loop on building and buying for awhile now,,,but wanted to ask the crew if the gooche decals are worth getting. are the sheets old fred cady quality, or Slixx quality,,,,,fill me in , boys...thanks as always, the ace.... ^_^

Posted

They vary wildly. Some are very good, but I've got a '67 Cyclone annual kit sheet that is so pixelated that is unusable. Most are scans of original sheets, probably not quite as good as originals but much better than nothing.

Posted

........all your comments are mostly positive re. his decals....that's great to hear, and thanks for your input , gents............the ace.... :D

Posted

Can you buy from them direct, without going through eBay? I'd like to buy several of his sheets and would like to just order them all at once and pay for one shipping and be done with it.

Posted

As well - try Firebird Designs Type it in google ( although his site is a little tricky to navigate- once you figure it out, you'll be glad :) ) - his quality is nice & has a wide variety - he also does custom orders :)

Posted

Gooche is actually a She. From what I've heard, the father died and now the daughter runs the company. I've bought three sheets from ebay, two were great, one was pixellated and not really usable. She apologized and offered a refund. I kept it anyway because nobody else made it. They have a lot of unique decals like that.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Gooche is great to deal with on Ebay, and ships fast. You might go to Ebay and send her a message direct with any questions. I ordered a set from her on Ebay, they were usable, but pixellated. It was a copy of the old 352 Peterbilt set, The company door logos were not bad, the scroll work was not usable. Again it comes down to what you are looking for. I wanted only the door logos and they were fine at a decent price. I would order again from them.

Posted

Hooray I can reply now!

I have bought numerous sheets from her and they have all been great. I liked one so well I asked her if she would custom make me a sheet with one design on it a number of times in different sizes and offered her 20$ if so. she said 10 including postage would be fine. I like that. product arrived and its excellent. these decals respond really well to microsol and lay down flat and contour to curves really well even without the chemicals. I would 100% recommend her, fast shipping, good product, flexible and will do some kustom work.

dAAvva.jpg

jb

 

 

roof decal 2.jpg

Posted

Hooray I can reply now!

I have bought numerous sheets from her and they have all been great. I liked one so well I asked her if she would custom make me a sheet with one design on it a number of times in different sizes and offered her 20$ if so. she said 10 including postage would be fine. I like that. product arrived and its excellent. these decals respond really well to microsol and lay down flat and contour to curves really well even without the chemicals. I would 100% recommend her, fast shipping, good product, flexible 

 JB... I read on eBay that the decals are printed on sheets, meaning that you have to be careful cutting them out to avoid having too much clear carrier... Is that a problem, especially with the wild designs you have in your photos?

Posted

We used the old Fred Cady decals for ever, and they had to be cut.  It's like any modeling skill.  It's a bit unnerving the first time, but if you take you time, be patient, and practice on an unimportant section first, you will be fine.  I have used both fine scissors and X-acto knives for this, but I prefer the scissors, as I don't seem to damage the edges of my decals as much.  many modelers prefer the X-acto, or scalpel blades.  I sometimes use the swivel knives used for fine stencil cutting.  My best results with knives are when I don't cut through the backing.  I use a very good light, and go slowly, making a clean cut through the film.  If you make a rough spot on the edge of the decal. it can show a bit, but they still look better than many of the recent kit decals.  

Posted (edited)

Frank this is typical of aftermarket decals. yes you have to trim close to the image but as said by Dave its not that big a deal. and in the image you see in the photos above, the decal was not clear coated but did have some microsol applied which help the decal and the carrier melt into the surface beneath it. I didn't go to any extreme lengths to trim right next to the image yet you still don't see much clear carrier (there is some along the needle part of the hypodermic syringe but even that is pretty minimal). the good side is that the decals are strong enough to not come apart even when you trim them down thin, but I did not trim around the needle very closely...if I had it probably would have been fine. 

I always trim my kit decals closer to the image than the way they are printed on the sheet anyhow so its not a bigger bother to cut out these aftermarket decals than it is applying individually printed decals.

jb

 

Edited by jbwelda
i should concentrate on clarity in writing
Posted

thanks Dave, that is a resin body I adapted to a glue bomb sort of funny car chassis I bought on ebay. the nose I made up of parts from the Revell midget and some scrap plastic. shot it with automotive GM HHR sunburst orange I think it was, as an experiment in color matching for another project I am working on. glad you like it! it looks better in the pics than in real life I'm afraid. its not super  detailed and the frame was out of wack a bit but it looks ok on the shelf.

jb

 

 

Posted

 

 

 

billie is no longer doing decals due to serious health issues. But his daughter  took over for him and doing a bang up job if can provide any  other info feel free to pm me thanks steve.

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