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Seeing as how this is a metal model and some heat won't bother it is it worth baking the paint? Is this just to help it dry or does it harden it or anything? And of I do bake how high heat and how long?

I am using Dupli-Color Perfect Match

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Duplicolor automotive paints are lacquers designed to air-dry just fine.

Personally, I'd let them dry on their own. Cast-metal model parts can sometimes be porous, so you run the risk of blistering from trapped gasses in the porosity, if it exists.

It IS important to give your primers sufficient time to shrink-in prior to final sanding, as on any model, and slightly elevating the temperature won't hurt.

Also be sure to give your color coats plenty of time to flash in between.

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Seeing as how this is a metal model and some heat won't bother it is it worth baking the paint? Is this just to help it dry or does it harden it or anything? And of I do bake how high heat and how long? I am using Dupli-Color Perfect Match

If anything, you could cause the outside layer to dry almost instantly, and the inside layers have no chance to dry now that the layers above no longer allow air in, and you have paint that will never seem completely cured/hardened. This would lead to big problems every time you handle it - you would leave fingerprints that just don't go away! I know this because I have used a food dehydrator set to 105 degrees to dry Duplicolor Perfect Match paints... and that's how I know it's not recommended!

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Here in Az the temps are just right for drying paint. Lacquer or enamel or acrylics dry just fine.

Well There in Arizona maybe, but Here in Arizona the Humidity is 74% right now and Water based paints just might take a while to dry.

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Lacquer paint dries just fine with normal air drying. Enamel paint is another thing. With enamels I use a food dehydrator to help it a long. It does need to be noted I have little to no experience painting metal models. So that needs to be taken in to account in my advice on paint.

Scott

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If anything, you could cause the outside layer to dry almost instantly, and the inside layers have no chance to dry now that the layers above no longer allow air in, and you have paint that will never seem completely cured/hardened.

Your explanation is close, with one technical error. It's not that the air needs to get in", but rather that the gasses from the solvents need to "get out". Drying the outside layer will prevent the gasses from escaping, not allowing the lower layers to cure.

I use Duplicolor very regularly, they dry fine by air. Humidity is more of an issue it seems, they do tend to blush with higher humidifies, but nothing that can't be taken care of with some polishing compound. Several of us have had issue with one of their clears recently, though, the Acrylic Lacquer clear in the blue can.

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Your explanation is close, with one technical error. It's not that the air needs to get in", but rather that the gasses from the solvents need to "get out". Drying the outside layer will prevent the gasses from escaping, not allowing the lower layers to cure.

I use Duplicolor very regularly, they dry fine by air. Humidity is more of an issue it seems, they do tend to blush with higher humidifies, but nothing that can't be taken care of with some polishing compound. Several of us have had issue with one of their clears recently, though, the Acrylic Lacquer clear in the blue can.

I agree - your explanation is more correct. I think mine was more metaphoric than accurate. And because of the problem with the blue can, I ordered a can of the Exact-Match Clear, to see if that might have been part of my problem with it not hardening properly. Although, I had been using the Pro clear in the gray can, I wanted to see if the appropriate clear would help.

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All my paint jobs go through my food dehydrator no matter the type or brand.

baking metal in an oven can cause color change.

Have you used the dehydrator with either of the newer auto-technology paints (acrylic lacquers/acrylic enamels)? I would be interested to hear how they responded...

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Have you used the dehydrator with either of the newer auto-technology paints (acrylic lacquers/acrylic enamels)? I would be interested to hear how they responded...

I have an Oster Food Dehydrator (bought at Walmart 4 years ago for approx. $30), and use it for curing out all my paintwork, be it Testors enamels, Modelmaster or Tamiya spray lacquers, even automotive acrylic lacquers and acrylic enamels.

It's worked for me every time I've used it!

Art

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I have an Oster Food Dehydrator (bought at Walmart 4 years ago for approx. $30), and use it for curing out all my paintwork, be it Testors enamels, Modelmaster or Tamiya spray lacquers, even automotive acrylic lacquers and acrylic enamels.

It's worked for me every time I've used it!

Well then, maybe my problem wasn't drying... Art - did you allow any air-dry time before you stuck your Acrylic Lacquer/Enamel projects in the dehydrator? What do you have your temp set at?

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