Quick Overview: Revell Starsky & Hutch Torino

[Dave Van]

Try to fit the Monogram NASCAR Thunderbird chassis under it. That chassis slips under a lot of other bodies easily.

Workin on that right now. WB is good....greenhouse needs work.

 

The MPC 1972 NASCAR  body was cloned off the JoHan body. (the JoHan kit was also marketed by AMT)

The JoHan parts swap without modification into the MPC  body. Hood, bumpers, grilles and glass all are interchangeable.  Wheelbase of the JoHan and MPC body are the same....but chassis is slightly different. The MPC chassis being the generic HM type set up.  The JoHan racing chassis is a freelance design using stock components. 

MPC body with JoHan promo chassis and interior. JoHan front and rear bumpers too. All fits as if made for it.

[sjordan2]

Beautiful piece of work. The metallic paint, surprisingly, doesn't look out of scale. Need a lot more shots. 

Edited September 28, 2015 by sjordan2

[Sledsel]

 

Those are the wheels the S&H Torino needs

[Dave Van]

Otaki or Arii big and littles.....can't buy enough of them!!!

Edited September 29, 2015 by Dave Van

[Sledsel]

I must go off topic for a moment...... 10 pages of "discussion" Awesome

 

[Chuck Kourouklis]

And I'd like to take a moment to thank everybody for keeping it smooth and civil.

Tip of the hat and much obliged to all of you.

[keyser]

Guess everyone has us on ignore  .

I lost the handbag fight pool. Happy I did. 

Gotta see the NASCAR Dave. 

[Chuck Kourouklis]

HAH!

Whatever way, it's the same to me.

[Ben]

I plan on buying one i just wish it was molded in white ...

spray it with silver first to seal the red, then shoot your primer and paint.

[Ben]

Think we got a winner.

 

Beats that crow, huh?

Thanks Chuck, now I'm starving! LOL

[Chuck Kourouklis]

So it ain't just me.

Looks a little Denny's or maybe truck-stoppish but real tasty just the same.

[Danno]

My vote:

"Wicked Chicken"

 

Edited September 29, 2015 by Danno

[Ben]

I'm seeing some of the "my ice cream is too cold!" Complaints on here! LOL

Never the less, I just bought two from Tower Hobbies along with two of the MPC snap rescue Blazer kits. Free shipping and when you use promo code 01a15 you get 15.00 off any order over 50.00 so each kit was only, just over 16.00!

i'll be designing some better five slot mags for Jim Littiken at Micro Nitro to machine out of aluminum for mine! I'll be sure to post pictures of them here once I get them in case anyone else would like to get some as well.

Edited September 29, 2015 by Ben

[Dave Van]

spray it with silver first to seal the red, then shoot your primer and paint.

I sprayed mine with two thin coats of Dupli-color #1699 gray sealer......sealed and you can't tell it was red.

[Scale-Master]

I sprayed mine with two thin coats of Dupli-color #1699 gray sealer......sealed and you can't tell it was red.

 

Primer should be fine.  Or Silver. 

No need for both on the outside. 

Despite the old wives tales, the dye from the red plastic does not bleed through paint. 

 

 

[lordairgtar]

Ya gonna tell us why primered red plastic gets a pinkish tinge then?

 

[Dave Van]

Ya gonna tell us why primered red plastic gets a pinkish tinge then?

 

Two thin coats of Dupli-color sealer and no pinkish at all.......why I've used it going on 20 years...

[Sledsel]

I like to use an initial coat of red oxide primer over red plastic, then gray, then sand.

[Dave Van]

I like to use an initial coat of red oxide primer over red plastic, then gray, then sand.

That's what works  best.......whatever works for YOU!!  There is no one right.......but I feel it's a non-issue. 

[Scale-Master]

Ya gonna tell us why primered red plastic gets a pinkish tinge then?

 

 

If you are having what you think is bleed through, it is most likely improper paint or primer application (including possibly not full coverage). 

I've seen paint sanded/polished through blamed as plastic dye bleed through, as well as when paint pulls away from a door line, or doesn't cover a fender peak.

If it was red dye bleeding through is it likely it would be pink, not red?  Especially under gray primer? 

BTW, yellow plastic does not bleed through either even though I have seen it blamed for problems.

Also, opacity and translucency has a place regarding the old tale too.  The comment about using silver is a good way to block light that could create an illusion of dye bleed.  I prefer to use silver on the inside of a body to limit paint build up, especially when applying primer as a base.

 

Edited September 30, 2015 by Scale-Master

[Sledsel]

That's what works  best.......whatever works for YOU!!  There is no one right.......but I feel it's a non-issue. 

Yup, we all have different techniques. I like the red/gray cuz during sanding it helps locate high/low spots also.

Odd how you prime a dark blue body with gray and it does not look blueish tho.

[Scale-Master]

Yup, we all have different techniques. I like the red/gray cuz during sanding it helps locate high/low spots also.

Odd how you prime a dark blue body with gray and it does not look blueish tho.

Not odd at all.

[Merkur XR4Ti]

I picked up my S&H kit at my local hobby shop last night. I plan on building it as the S&H car, so the body being molded in red isn't an issue for me. If this kit gets people who've been out of the hobby for years to come back and build a kit of an old memory, then molding it in red is the right choice. I suspect the vast majority of these will be built box stock anyway. As others have said, for different colors spray the body silver first and you'll have no bleedthrough issues, I've done that many times.

 

Body looks good to me. Couple of things: I sanded the bottoms of the front fenders just a bit to give them a slight upward slant as the kit comes with them molded straight. That took 3 minutes, tops. Easy fix which helps a little with accuracy.

 

The bumpers definitely sit too far out from the body as the filler panels are too wide. That's not an easy fix as the frame tucks in quite tightly under and into the bumper panels both front and rear. I don't think it's a huge deal, so I won't try to fix it as that would be complicated, but I can see where that would add a touch of chunkiness to the look.

 

The rear window frame sweep looks fine to me. I don't think I'll sand it. I suspect that once the stripe is on the body any visual issues will be unnoticeable. I might try to look for another set of tires as to me the front ones look too small and thin. I'll have to fiddle with the tires and ride hide to get the look I'd like. This is a personal preference.

I might put on a different Ford air cleaner as I prefer the classic air cleaner look. Personal preference, not an issue with the kit. Parts fit seems quite good to me, I think this kit is going to fall together really easily. I'm pleased with the look of the grille as well.

 

Overall I'm very happy with the kit, and I'm thrilled to have the chance to build an iconic TV car. This will go onto the same shelf as my General Lee, Boss Hogg Caddy, Miami Vice Testarossa, and the ECTO-1.

[Sledsel]

 

 

Body looks good to me. Couple of things: I sanded the bottoms of the front fenders just a bit to give them a slight upward slant as the kit comes with them molded straight. That took 3 minutes, tops. Easy fix which helps a little with accuracy.

   

The bumpers definitely sit too far out from the body as the filler panels are too wide. That's not an easy fix as the frame tucks in quite tightly under and into the bumper panels both front and rear. I don't think it's a huge deal, so I won't try to fix it as that would be complicated, but I can see where that would add a touch of chunkiness to the look.

 

The rear window frame sweep looks fine to me. I don't think I'll sand it. I suspect that once the stripe is on the body any visual issues will be unnoticeable. I might try to look for another set of tires as to me the front ones look too small and thin. I'll have to fiddle with the tires and ride hide to get the look I'd like. This is a personal preference.

I might put on a different Ford air cleaner as I prefer the classic air cleaner look. Personal preference, not an issue with the kit. Parts fit seems quite good to me, I think this kit is going to fall together really easily. I'm pleased with the look of the grille as well.

  

 I saw the fender issue also, and as stated, easy fix.

I do not have the kit in hand yet and my observations have been from looking at pics. I'll definitly have to look at the bumper spacing once in-hand. What if the filler panel is sanded and the frame just trimmed a little? Just wondering

 Toss on some Cleveland heads from a Nascar kit. The block in this kit is definitly of Cleveland design. ( See the build thread on this kit)

 Modify the kit intake, use the old standby "Cobra" style air cleaner. 

It does look to go together easily, almost as if it started life as a snap kit

[Merkur XR4Ti]

I don't think sanding the filler panel will work: it's "hollow" underneath so you would really only be able to remove a little bit of material, which wouldn't make a big difference, and it would take a lot of effort just to get that. And the front frame rails tuck right up almost to the end of the filler panel anyway. When you get the kit, check it out and you'll see what I mean. This does mean that the body/frame fit will be quite good and tight, which I do like.