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'65 Ford Cortina Street Altered


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I've been away for a while, as I've simply had no time to build anything or visit on these forums so often. I've been busy with 1:1 cars, visiting Cruising Nights, Car Shows etc with '60 Impala and building my new daily driver, '92 Chevy S10. It looks like I might find some more time to build models as well so I'll post this thread on a build I started today.

 

A Couple of weeks ago I was at local Model Car Contest where I bought this '65 Ford Cortina Resin Body. It's made by AirTrax and the body has some flaws, but as usual with these AirTrax  bodies that have mold flaws in them, this is so good that I can't find any problems in it. I have only the body, but I'll have to buy a separate hood, grille, bumpers etc for this. They're not needed right now as I have tons of other thing on line first.

 

My plan is to build a Finnish Street Altered Drag Car from the early '80s. At that time, Drag Racing was a pretty new thing in Finland (First race was driven here in 1975) and Drag Cars were home built... And they looked like that too. Driving abilities weren't very good and tracks had no prep on them so usually it was quite slippery even though drivers laid some track glue on the ground after burnout and spinned the wheels in that liquid. Street Altered cars had to have naturally aspirated engines running on gasoline, but otherwise engine tuning was pretty much free. It was allowed to build a new frame and suspension components were free as well.

 

My plan is to scratchbuild a frame from square styrene rod and all suspension components will be taken from my spare parts box. Interior will be very simple and overall I'm not trying to make this too cleanly finished so that it looks like it could have raced in Street Altered back then.

 

Here are some old Street Altered car photos to get you in the mood.

"FlatTop Plymouth" and "Wheelie Valiant"

"Hitler's Revenge" VW Beetle.

Street Altered Escort

Beaver Rocker Cortina

I started today by removing mold flash from window areas and then I started to mock up tires. Rear Slicks are from Jo-Han '69 AMC AMX Super Stock and front tires are 13 inch tires from AMT Chevy Monza. Because most guys didn't narrow their rear axles, rear wheel openings had to be cut larger and then rear tires stuck outside the bodyline. That's why I did the same on mine:

Now when both rear wheel openings were enlarged and the tires fit on place, I did a fast mock up:

 

I would have started building the frame as well, but I have no styrene rod for that. In a couple of days I'm going to go buy some more though. Hopefully this thread will keep me going and make it easier to get back building.

 

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Thanks for the kind comments, everyone! It felt really good to work with styrene and resin after a long break. Hopefully I can keep working on this and it won't get stalled after a week because I don't have parts or something like that.:D

 

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Funny you posted that one. It is an old Street Altered car that was known as Footbait Cortina. Nowadays it has been brought back to life and it's running with a Hilborn Injected Big Block Chevy here in Finland. Here's a picture of that car from decades ago: http://www.theaccelerationarchive.co.uk/alan_currans/comp_altereds/page_08/1-CA-143.jpg

 

Today I'm going to go buying some material to build the frame for this, so stay tuned.

 

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Thanks Carl! It feels good to be back building again and this project is very interesting.

I haven't had too much time to work on this, but I have a good start on the frame. I bought some styrene rod from a Local Hobby Shop and after looking at old pics of a Street Altered car's frame I got the idea how it should look. It needed a bit of planning to figure out how it should be built, what tubing should be glued where, how, and when. After all I hope I'm not doing this the hardest way...

These are the longest frame rails needed. They are mocked up with tape so that I could measure how wide those frame crossmembers should be.

First crossmember was glued to the front end of the frame. I couldn't make other crossmembers yet, because I must mock up rear axle, engine and driveshaft before so that I know if I have to do bends for them.

On my reference pictures the car had very simple rear section of the frame (Part that goes on top of a rear axle). So I made a similar one to my Cortina. A couple of crossmembers are still needed here as well, but I'm going to use them as shock mounts so they can't be added quite yet.

So the next thing is to glue these two parts together and then continue by adding more tubings to sides.

Hope to have more soon.

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Thanks guys!

Michael: Yes, it feels great to do some scratchbuilding after a long break. Somehow I think I like doing these modifications more and more, it's very rare that I build something out of the box nowadays. And I believe that a 427 Big Block Chevy with Tunnel Ram intake will be nasty enough for this one.;)

Mark: That Edsel is one that I can't wait to start. It's going to be a Mild Custom, but I'll need to do pretty much modifications to that as I'm going to use AMT '58 Edsel chassis and engine in it.

Andy: It's true that those cars look like each others a bit. Maybe that's the reason why I like so much about this Cortina body.:D

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well here we go again, a small update.

Before I was able to continue adding some more tubes to frame sides, I had to do some cleanup from inside the body. On some spots there was some excess resin that had to be sanded off. I took out my Dremel and sanded those smooth. It might be that you all know this already and I haven't heard of it, but I found out that when sanding resin with motor tool next time, wear somekind of a breathing mask! That resin "dust" is pretty nasty stuff when you breath it.

I still have some cleanup to do, especially in the engine bay area. I have to clean them up as well, but it's coming later. Now I can concentrate on building the frame. Anyway this is how inside of the body looks now:

Now I was able to continue building the frame. I started by making some tubes to other side of the frame. Very simple and easy so far, just cutting tubes into correct length and gluing them together. Now next step will be doing the same thing to other side.

 

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Thanks so much!

I was a bit afraid of how well I would do when I got back to the bench. During the time when I wasn't building models, I was building and playing with my 1:1 toys, but as all of the parts there are 25 times bigger, you can't do such a detail work as with these scale models. But luckily it looks like I still can, even though I'm a bit slow on this as there is still lots of other stuff to do (Just yesterday I repainted my daily driver, Chevy S10). But hopefully I can continue the frame work very soon....

 

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