Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

Recommended Posts

Posted

i bought a 51 chevy bel air  - i want to   paint the top different from the body  how do you guy`s do it  if you paint the  top how do you cover the painted top so you can do the body ??????

Posted

The usual method is to paint the lighter color first (If the roof is White, paint that first).  Then when the paint has fully dried, mask off the roof using painters blue masking tape (as Ray suggested above) and then paint the body.

Posted

The usual method is to paint the lighter color first (If the roof is White, paint that first).  Then when the paint has fully dried, mask off the roof using painters blue masking tape (as Ray suggested above) and then paint the body.

Richard makes a GREAT point ! I use the "Frosted " cellophane tape for "Two tone Paint " jobs .

nicecloseup.jpg

Posted (edited)

Eshaver's "frosted tape" is what was recommended on a lot of instruction sheets. It makes a very sharp edge, but isn't too bad about pulling the first color off when you remove the tape.

If you're going to two-tone, you can save yourself some possible grief by making sure your model is WELL SCUFFED for maximum adhesion of the first color...and that the first color is VERY VERY DRY.

Masking tape will sometimes try to pull the first color off when you remove it, so you want to pull it off 180 degrees from the surface too, NOT straight up.

I personally prefer something like 3M green polypropylene fine-line tape for the edges. It stretches nicely around corners, and makes a crisp, sharp line. The blue "painters tape" is used for the rest of the masking job, because of its low-tack and gentleness to the first color. The blue tape doesn't always want to make sharp edges, in my experience anyway.

Edited by Ace-Garageguy
Posted

Another trick you can use, if you want a white top is to spray the entire kit with white primer.

Than just mask off the top, spray the rest the body color, unmask the top & shoot the whole thing with clear.

Kind of kills 2 birds with one stone.

 

Steve

 

 

 photo DSCN2806_zpszu3zaqjd.jpg

 

Posted

If you're going to two-tone, you can save yourself some possible grief by making sure your model is WELL SCUFFED for maximum adhesion of the first color...and that the first color is VERY VERY DRY.

Would you recommend giving the first color some decent cure time...maybe 2-3 days before taping it off?

Posted

The rule of thumb is kinda if you can't smell it, it's dry enough.

Not being able to smell it, or smell it much, means that most of the solvents have evaporated out, and it's stuck to the surface about as well as it will get.

Posted

If you're pressed for time (and you shouldn't be) you can try a trick I've used a few times; cut a paper mask that you can slip through the window openings and tape together mimicking the plastic cones vets put on our pets... either masking off the top or bottom as necessary. This could also be used by setting the body inside a container and letting the mask seal off the bottom. It requires careful handling at all times, of course. for other styles of color breaks where your division line falls on the body, this won't work at all. I don't know how the prepainted kits are done when they come in two-tones, but I imagine it's a quick process or it wouldn't be profitable.

Posted

I also use Tamiya Tape to mask the edges of the first color, then cover the rest of the first color with the Blue painters tape.

Steve's suggestion of spraying first with White Primer, then masking off the roof, spraying the color coat on the rest of the body, then finally unmask everything and spray your clearcoat on the whole thing is an excellent suggestion.

Posted

I also use Tamiya Tape to mask the edges of the first color, then cover the rest of the first color with the Blue painters tape.

Steve's suggestion of spraying first with White Primer, then masking off the roof, spraying the color coat on the rest of the body, then finally unmask everything and spray your clearcoat on the whole thing is an excellent suggestion.

Tamiya tape is my "go to" for paint lines as well.

It sticks very well so there's no "bleed under" but doesn't stick too much so there's little danger of leaving adhesive residue, or damaging the paint when removed.

I also use blue painters tape & masking paper to fill in the large areas.

 

Steve

Posted

I use the blue Scotch low-tack masking tape. If the roll is kind of old, I'll lightly lay a strip down on a clean surface and, using a steel straight edge, trim off an edge. The freshly-trimmed tape then gives a nice sharp line.

Posted

I have read that after you mask it spray another coat of the lighter (first) color. It will help seal the edges from bleed thru. I have not tried this myself but maybe someone else has some input on this.

Posted

I have read that after you mask it spray another coat of the lighter (first) color. It will help seal the edges from bleed thru. I have not tried this myself but maybe someone else has some input on this.

I have been pleased with this method also, but use a light spraying of clear along the edge. Remove the tape before the paint fully dries. As suggested remove the tape slowly and peal it back at an angle.  

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...