First in-depth look - Revell's new '30 Model A Chopped Five Window Coupe kit...

[Spex84]

Ach, can't get the edit feature to work. That should be "The Revell hood appears to be about 2" wider on each side (at the firewall)"

[carnut]

I was hoping that someone would have gained access to a real '30 Model A coupe and take some measurements. Still it might be worth picking up for parts, at least I still have one of Norm Verber's coupe to work with still ?.

By the way, thanks guys for looking into this, now I know what I am up against when I do tear into one hopefully soon.

Edited July 16, 2016 by carnut

[Spex84]

I'd suggest that anyone who's as picky as I am should probably buy the kit, do their own measurements, and proceed from there! I wouldn't want to discourage anyone. Modelers hoping for a stock '30 will not find it in this kit...but as the basis for a hot rod, it's jam-packed with potential!

[tim boyd]

For what it is worth, my understanding is that Revell asked for, and received, copies of the original Model A Blueprints from the Ford archives, before engineering the kit    

Cheers.....TIM 

 

[Ace-Garageguy]

  On 7/16/2016 at 10:11 PM, Spex84 said:

... as the basis for a hot rod, it's jam-packed with potential!

Absolutely agreed 100%. The kit is entirely worth every cent just as a parts source.

BUT WAIT...HERE'S THE REALLY GOOD NEWS !!!

Because of the discrepancy in the upper cowl width, no matter WHAT the reason, it will work to a lot of rod builders' advantage.

One of the MOST popular looks for the '30 Ford is to use a '32 grille shell, as most everybody who's into rods should know. When you do that on a REAL car and elect to run a hood, you HAVE to make a CUSTOM hood because the '32 hood that fits the '32 grille shell is too wide to fit the '30 cowl. You have to do the same thing on a model if it's all scaled correctly.

In the case of the new-tool Revell '30...and I just fit it right here to verify it...the older Revell '32 hoods are exactly the right width to fit the new '30 cowl. The older hood needs a trim along the bottom, but it's exactly the right width. You can run a '32 hood with SIMPLE modifications, rather than having to pie-cut one, or build from scratch.

The '32 hoods that are the right width are these:

         

  as well as any of the old AMT '32 Ford kits and their derivatives and repops  

The rest of the good news for minimal-effort modelers is that the kinda klugely look of the firewall in the new Revell '30 kit will probably accommodate the '32 hoods without any rework. I've already modified the only one I have so far, but maybe somebody else could verify this on an un-modified original...?

We were kinda told the reason the firewall was designed as it was was to fit a hood sometime in the future, but this particular reasoning was never explained fully, and nobody ever mentioned putting a '32 hood on the new '30.

 

 

Edited July 16, 2016 by Ace-Garageguy

[Toner283]

Bill, I have a real deal Henry steel 30 Model A coupe in the garage. If you give me a rough drawing of the firewall and what and where you want dimensions I will measure them and post them up here. I have not being able to compare any measurements yet because I have not seen the Model A coupe kit for sale up here in Canada yet. The last time I asked at my LHS they told me probably mid August before we will see it north of the Border.

[carnut]

i thought so, the kit is made to transplant any 1/25 scale '32 hoods and grill shells. Sounds good, thanks.

[peter31a]

Chris, Wheels and Wings as well as Hornet Hobbies in Toronto have both had the coupe in. Wheels and Wings got theirs last week and Hornet got one for me this week.

[Toner283]

  On 7/17/2016 at 1:41 AM, peter31a said:

Chris, Wheels and Wings as well as Hornet Hobbies in Toronto have both had the coupe in. Wheels and Wings got theirs last week and Hornet got one for me this week.

Sounds good. Looks like I am going to toronto tomorrow.

[Spex84]

I feel like once people start building these, there should be a thread dedicated solely to Revell '29's and '30s, just to demonstrate how happy we are to have these kits.

[peter31a]

  On 7/17/2016 at 2:30 AM, Toner283 said:

Sounds good. Looks like I am going to toronto tomorrow.

It might be a bit late if you've left already but I can't guarantee they have any left. Best to phone first. I know mine was the only one Hornet got in. 

[Dennis Lacy]

  On 7/17/2016 at 5:42 AM, Spex84 said:

I feel like once people start building these, there should be a thread dedicated solely to Revell '29's and '30s, just to demonstrate how happy we are to have these kits.

I got started on mine yesterday. When I get a little farther I'll get a thread going on the Workbench.

[Ace-Garageguy]

  On 7/17/2016 at 5:42 AM, Spex84 said:

I feel like once people start building these, there should be a thread dedicated solely to Revell '29's and '30s, just to demonstrate how happy we are to have these kits.

And I hope the information posted about fixing things isn't taken to be solely about criticizing its shortcomings, but will be seen as an attempt to show how to make a good and much appreciated kit produce an even better model.  

[Ace-Garageguy]

  On 7/16/2016 at 11:39 PM, Toner283 said:

Bill, I have a real deal Henry steel 30 Model A coupe in the garage. If you give me a rough drawing of the firewall and what and where you want dimensions I will measure them and post them up here.

Probably the single most helpful dimension to have from a real-Henry '30 would be the distance between the sides of the cowl, measured straight across at the junction of the fuel tank. I realize measuring at that point might be a little tricky with the firewall in place, but it shouldn't be too hard.

 

 

[Jantrix]

  On 7/17/2016 at 4:41 PM, Ace-Garageguy said:

Probably the single most helpful dimension to have from a real-Henry '30 would be the distance between the sides of the cowl, measured straight across at the junction of the fuel tank. I realize measuring at that point might be a little tricky with the firewall in place, but it shouldn't be too hard.

 

 

You don't have a four foot caliper? 

[Ace-Garageguy]

  On 7/17/2016 at 9:00 PM, Jantrix said:

You don't have a four foot caliper? 

You know Rob, that would be a damm handy tool. I think it's time I made one up. 

[Toner283]

  On 7/17/2016 at 4:41 PM, Ace-Garageguy said:

Probably the single most helpful dimension to have from a real-Henry '30 would be the distance between the sides of the cowl, measured straight across at the junction of the fuel tank. I realize measuring at that point might be a little tricky with the firewall in place, but it shouldn't be too hard.

 

 

Actually, that one will be easy. The firewall is flipped in our car. I will get it for you tomorrow afternoon.

 

[horsepower]

  On 7/18/2016 at 5:30 AM, Toner283 said:

:Actually, that one will be easy. The firewall is flipped in our car. I will get it for you tomorrow afternoon.

 

Doesn't looking at the picture of this 1:1 A make you wonder why the headers on Revell's coupe have to have that funky kink in them to clear the steering shaft, and why did they do it on the other side too, unless they plan on putting a right hand steering dash in for those who are from the areas who have them.

[RAT-T]

NOT SURE IF THIS HAS BEEN ASKED YET, WHAT WOULD YOU THINK THE CHOP IS ON THIS BODY? 3 OR 4 INCHES?

[Spex84]

I was thinking it was in that range, maybe 3.5". I guess I could go and measure, but I'm feeling lazy right now. Revell has given us a very nicely balanced chop....not too heavy, not too mild. I might re-chop mine to about 4-4.5" though. I like the mean look, and since it's just a model, I won't get a sore neck driving it!

[Mr. Metallic]

 

Just completed my first build of this kit yesterday. It's not 100% box stock, but I'll pass along my findings here.

It assembles really well. I especially love how the windshield frame,body and window glass all sandwich together. Almost didn't glue mine. Everything else fits together really well. I was concerned with the roof fitting, because out of the box mine did not seem as tight as the pics I had seen on line. As a precaution I added filler behind the seem. It probably didn't need it.

I have been working on a set of fenders. I'm using set from the Monogram 30. The width does seem a little wide, but that makes fitting big tires easier   However, a significant tweak is necessary. The arc of the fenders needs to be tightened up a little. as it passes top center it flares a little to much towards the rear, so I had to apply pressure and glue. I let it sit overnight, so we'll see what it looks like when I get home.

[tim boyd]

Craig -  nicely done!!!   And good to see that Nailhead in lieu of the SBC.  

Anyone else got a completed build yet?    TIM 

 

[Jantrix]

  On 7/18/2016 at 11:06 PM, tim boyd said:

Anyone else got a completed build yet?    TIM 

 

No but I have a WIP in the On the Workbench section.

Edited July 19, 2016 by Jantrix

[Toner283]

Ok folks, a day later than I planned but here are the measurements off of a real deal Henry steel 1930 Model A Coupe. This is an unchopped unmolested original steel body. The only reproduction parts on the car are the rear fenders. Putting up the pictures will take a few posts so bear with me.

First off, the measurement that Bill asked for. This is the width where the gas tank top meets the cowl sides on each side. The gas tank top is black and the cowl sides are grey primer. The second pic is from the bottom edge of the body to where the cowl side and the gas tank to meet. 

[Toner283]

Someone asked how much the new kit is chopped. Here is the measurements for a stock height roof. Note the shape of the quarter windows. Also note that the top of the door window is not straight but has an arch to it.

 

Edited July 20, 2016 by Toner283