Alclad Chrome - ARRRRGGHHH!!!!!

[Tom Geiger]

Note that Alclad also comes in a spray can.  I don't like to use an airbrush and this works well for me.

As Eric said, I use a Duplicolor gloss black under the Alclad.  I don't believe Testors enamel has the properties to make Alclad work. It's the same principle as a mirror, the black base is essential to the shine reflecting outward.   

 

[Pavel A.]

Alclad is for me also problematic. I tried Spaz Stix...and it is awesome. I recommend it! Try to watch on y.utube, Spaz stix vs. Alclad, or How to apply Spaz Stix...

[Spex84]

I have not tried Spaz Stix, it looks amazing.

I have limited experience with Alclad, but have not had major problems. I did a little research first and found a few tips that seemed to work:

1. Use gloss black enamel base coat, not the Alclad black lacquer (I use hardware store Krylon...if it's not shiny enough, I wait until it's cured and then polish it until it shines)

2.Thin, light coats of Alclad, just misted on, seems to produce the most "chrome-like" finish. Apply too much Alclad and you'll get a dull silver. Too little and the black will show through in crevices where the Alclad hasn't reached. For some parts, this can actually be a positive result, it saves the trouble of applying a black wash later.

3. A light dusting once the Alclad is dry (which doesn't take long) removes any dry particles of paint on the surface. Don't buff it though!

4. No clear coat; that will just make the Alclad look dull silver again.

[Quick GMC]

black gives the tone of the chrome, you don't need to use black. As long as your surface is extremely smooth and glossy, the chrome will be reflective and have depth. You can manipulate the hue, or color of the chrome with the color of the base coat. 

[Skip]

If you can't get the Spaz Stix or Alclad techniques down some thing that's worked for me is to use Lowe's Valspar Primer + Valspar Gloss Black + Valspar Brite Metal Silver.  (Valspar seems to work the best for me.)  These are all enamel based paints so either accelerate drying with a hair dryer or dehydrator.  Use your polishing pads on the gloss black you want the shiniest smoothest surface for the silver to lay down on.  This won't give the chrome effect that Alclad or Spaz Stix will, close but not quite the same.   Using this technique first out of the can, then decanting is going to help your learning curve and at $3 - 4 bucks a rattle can is cheaper to practice with too.  

(This technique goes way back before either Chrome Paint products ever came on the market, sign guys have been using it for eons.)  this is basically the same base technique that airbrush artists used lacquers for to do headlights and chrome, tinted and highlighted with super-thinned blue.

[MMITCH63]

I am having very similar problems with the Alclad Chrome. I use the Tamiya gloss black for the base backing primer. But when I paint the chrome, I either get it to heavy, and it comes out silver, or I think I have a good coat on it, because it comes out wit a mirror shine, but as it dries, it gets black splotchy spots in it, like it's not on heavy enough. What's the secret to getting this stuff right?

Edited June 29, 2024 by MMITCH63

[StevenGuthmiller]

On 6/29/2024 at 5:56 PM, MMITCH63 said:

I am having very similar problems with the Alclad Chrome. I use the Tamiya gloss black for the base backing primer. But when I paint the chrome, I either get it to heavy, and it comes out silver, or I think I have a good coat on it, because it comes out wit a mirror shine, but as it dries, it gets black splotchy spots in it, like it's not on heavy enough. What's the secret to getting this stuff right?

Just a shiny base, (doesn't necessarily have to be black) and then a light coat of Alclad, and walk away.

I think some people's problem is over thinking it.

Just about anything will work as a base, (I use any black paint, usually black primer, and a coat of Testors clear enamel as my base)

And it's my guess that people often think that they need more Alclad than is really necessary, which ultimately causes more problems.

Just a very light coat will do it, and although it may not look like chrome immediately after spraying, if you leave it alone for a few minutes, the shine will materialize.

 

The parts of this dashboard were done with various methods, but they blend seamlessly.

Parts such as the tachometer are kit chrome.

The dash background bright work, steering wheel hub, and BONNEVILLE script are BMF.

The dash knobs, gauge cluster pods, and vent knobs are Alclad.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Steve

[Bugatti Fan]

Too many costs of Alclad and it goes dull.

The Revell chrome spray is good by all accounts. Wonder if they will supply it in bottles to Airbrush?

[maxwell48098]

I decanted some of the Revell Chrome spray and have done emblems, dash knobs, and other small parts using a brush.  Worked perfectly.

 

A.J.