absmiami Posted September 16, 2018 Author Posted September 16, 2018 next is the steering unit made from some evergreen tube and strip with a prelim check of the fit within the chassis rail to make sure that is clears the right side cylinder head - and a black plastic tube has been drilled into the chassis rail to locate the completed unit
absmiami Posted September 16, 2018 Author Posted September 16, 2018 the space for the steering box is tight so the bottom tab has a peg that will slide into the black tube drilled thru the chassis rail it's a snug fit that will rotate but will stay put once everything is put together that way I can get the correct angle for the steering wheel post - which actually tilts up and in to its correct place below the dash the tube thru the chassis rail was then capped and sanded - as it should not be visible on the outside surface of the chassis rail ... 1
Rider Posted September 17, 2018 Posted September 17, 2018 On 2018-02-01 at 4:57 PM, absmiami said: so having broken my last #75 drill it was off to the local hobby store for some more provisions yes - there is still one lonely hobby store - specializing in trains - in Miami - Ready to Roll - for you train fans - and they carry a good assortment of scratch-building supplies for the remaining rivets on the body I'm trying some phosphor bronze wire - .020 the gadget in the picture marks the metal at .100 intervals, and was made from this wire - holes drilled with #76 drill gonna use some drill lubricant - so I don't break all of my #76's ... these rivet holes will crawl around the cowl and down the length of the body - as the body was riveted in this manner to the chassis This is a great trick. Outstanding work, thanks for sharing and for the explanations. That Renshape stuff looks to be very a versatile product to have in you tool kit. I am extremely interested in seeing how you pull off the engine turned finish.
absmiami Posted September 20, 2018 Author Posted September 20, 2018 engine turned finish will be easy ! I'm gonna make all the parts, paint the chassis and engine, and send the body back to Pico and tell him to do the engine turning !!! just kidding - maybe ..... just some test fitting the engine, exhaust manifold, and bulkhead are in place - its a tight fit but everything should be where it belongs ...
absmiami Posted September 20, 2018 Author Posted September 20, 2018 the driver's compartment has interior trim that takes the rivets that attach the body to the chassis - probably visible on the Leno video - they are made fr Evergreen 0.60 L shaped stock that is marked for rivet dimples and then filed to shape - the dimples will do - as the trim sits down in the chassis rails below the dash I'll paint them after the chassis is spray painted - I wanted them in place to give me a solid attachment/glue guide when the body is attached to the chassis ....
absmiami Posted September 20, 2018 Author Posted September 20, 2018 think I forgot to post these pix I made a brass steering arm the will be glued to the bottom of the steering unit it pokes out of the bottom of the chassis and then is attached to the steering link what could go wrong ? remember - these cars were not yet racing on paved surfaces ... yikes Delage corrected this in their '27 GP car - sending the arm out above the chassis rails ....
absmiami Posted September 20, 2018 Author Posted September 20, 2018 renshape and evergreen plastic .... work begins on the seats and the drive shaft cover
Pico Posted September 21, 2018 Posted September 21, 2018 Ha! I am waiting to see how you engine turned the body.
Pico Posted September 25, 2018 Posted September 25, 2018 Bilingham has suggested using Cratex abrasives for the engine turning; which looks like a good idea: https://www.cratex.com/ .
absmiami Posted September 29, 2018 Author Posted September 29, 2018 I have bookmarked the cratex site - but their discs are too large - unless they can be turned down - which I doubt gonna try to make a tool that will produce swirls - or something close to a swirl - that is no more than one scale inch - we'll see mean time - gotta make a transmission - more Evergreen .... the clutch housing is made from 1/2 inch tube and thin plastic sheet - filed etc with an added inspection plate and holes for retaining nuts then attached to evergreen bar stock - 6 scale inches wide and a little taller - for the gear box ...
absmiami Posted September 29, 2018 Author Posted September 29, 2018 the gear box has a cover plate that is bolted down with castle nuts - so I marked the holes and drilled them and added some more features the box isn't done yet - but it was then liquid glued to the clutch housing and set in the chassis for a test fit the housing for the gear shift hangs off of the end of the box - gonna make that next - along with some sort of finned circular device that is attached to the end of the gear box and is attached to levers that do what? not sure .... but it looks cool .... 1
absmiami Posted October 1, 2018 Author Posted October 1, 2018 gaskets ... gaskets ... rats - I forgot the gaskets ... new parts are the housing for the base of the gear shift and the driveshaft casing ...
absmiami Posted October 11, 2018 Author Posted October 11, 2018 more trans details the driver side of the box has a kick plate made of - I think - plywood made this from thin renshape sheet scrap - to be washed w/ a grime finish and some dark stain then drew patterns for the floor boards onto thin evergreen plastic sheet
absmiami Posted October 11, 2018 Author Posted October 11, 2018 the floorboards wrap around the transmission they are raised above the chassis plate about 3 scale inches using evergreen .100 angle used both Tamiya liquid glue and fast setting "cyo" glue
absmiami Posted October 11, 2018 Author Posted October 11, 2018 so the floor boards are roughed out and in place to check fit ... then I sawed some slots into the leading edge of the driver's side board for the openings for the pedal brackets everybody's got some stray tools laying around the back of their tool drawer that they only use about once every two years or so - but when you need that particular tool - well - you need it ... the slots must be a certain width, and only this fine toothed metal saw blade would work - now the lonely blade will go back into it's dark corner for another long period of hibernation ....
afx Posted October 11, 2018 Posted October 11, 2018 Looks like you use magic marker for your layout - any issues with it bleeding through the paint?
absmiami Posted October 15, 2018 Author Posted October 15, 2018 layout marker ... not too big a problem for parts to be painted with a metal finish but will remove most of the markings - would be problem on the chassis rails - which will be primed and painted blue pedals - made from a strip of Evergreen "metal" scale siding - its the stuff used by small scale railroad scratch builders for structures ... glued to brass shafts that poke out of the floor-board slots check fit - just enough room - and they will not interfere with the steering column ... next to the hand brake and the brake "servo"....
Rider Posted October 15, 2018 Posted October 15, 2018 This is a joy to watch. Fantastic scratching going on here.
Eric Macleod Posted October 16, 2018 Posted October 16, 2018 This is real craftsmanship...and real patience!
Eric Macleod Posted October 16, 2018 Posted October 16, 2018 One thought about the engine turned finish. How close are you with your dentist? They might have something, or access to something that would work.
Straightliner59 Posted October 16, 2018 Posted October 16, 2018 Absolutely wonderful work, Andy! She's gonna' be killer!
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