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Posted

That's funny you mentioned that.  I just bought paint from Bob's Paint.  I'll see what he has but I think one of those formulas I linked above will work.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Here's a small update.

I got an Enderle Bug Catcher injector scoop from a Revell '68 Corvette.  I started scratch building the injectors that it sits on.  The chassis is painted Alclad Magnesium and the body is in primer.  

I re-shaped the opening in the hood for the bug catcher.  I'm currently waiting for the paint to arrive.  I'm getting House Of Kolor paints from Bob's Paint.  I had talked with the guy who painted the 1:1 Willys that I attached pictures of in my first post.  He said he started with HOK Rootbeer and added some Copper Pearl and Tangerine Kandy.  It was a long time ago so he didn't remember the exact formula but at least I know what colors he used for the body.   

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Edited by crowe-t
  • 6 months later...
Posted (edited)

It's been a while since I posted an update.  I was working on a couple of other builds so I put this one aside, sort of.  I had talked with the guy who painted the reddish-brown 1:1 Willys that inspired this build.  He said it was about 9 years since it was painted but he started with HOK KBC 07 Rootbeer and added some copper pearl and Tangerine.  The color they ended up with is a pearl color.  He didn't have an exact formula so I tried winging it.  Mixing 3 colors wasn't easy.  What I came up with was either too brown or it looked red.  After stripping the body and parts 4 times, I decided to go another route.

I recently contacted Mate at Gravity Colors and asked if he had an idea which of his pearl/metallic colors I could mix to get in the ballpark.  He gave me a suggestion and then a few days later he said he was getting me the color.  He said his paint supplier converted the Rootbeer paint formula to the BASF system they use and used the picture of the 1:1 Willys in this post to match to. Mate liked it so much that he is now selling it on his website.  It's called Hot Rod Root Beer.

This color is exactly what I was looking for and it's easier to work with than the HOK paints.  I painted the body/hood, underside of the floors, center console, dashboard, engine block and rear view mirrors.  I might also add the darker brown fade at the bottom the same as the 1:1 Willys has.  The clear isn't on yet so the parts still look dull.  I did spray a sample on a spoon and sprayed some clear on it to see what the color will look like.

Here's are some pictures.

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Edited by crowe-t
Posted

 

1 hour ago, 66belair said:

The color is awesome, that’s going to be a beautiful model when done.

Thanks Mike!  The color is real nice.  It changes under different lighting, sometimes brown, golden, reddish...

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Posted

Great match on the paint, Michael!!!  She's coming together nicely.  I still haven't started mine but you are certainly an inspiration to me!!!  Looking forward to seeing the next update. ????????

Posted

Thanks guys!  

Joe - I'm adding a couple of subtle things and I'll be adding the darker brown fade along the bottom.  However I won't be painting the flames on.  I wish I could. lol 

  • 9 months later...
Posted

It's been a while but I'm finally finishing this one.  :)

The instructions say to cut out the dashboard gauge decals and not to dip them in water and glue in place.  Instead I cut the shapes out of .5mm sheet styrene and applied the decals.  I glued them in with canopy glue and used Testors clear parts cement to make lenses.  

The interior's center console and dashboard are painted the body color as well.  It photographs almost red but it is a slight reddish-root beer brown color.

The tan is Tamiya XF-59 Desert Yellow which is actually a nice saddle tan color.  For the carpeting I used a Champagne color embossing powder I found at Michaels.  The 1:1 Willys that inspired this build doesn't have a finished interior since the owner decided to sell it before the interior was finished.  I picked saddle tan which seems to go really nice with the body color.  The steering column, the center of the steering wheel and brake pedal are airbrushed with Molotow Chrome and clear coated with Spaz Stix Ultimate Clear Coat.  I made the directional lever out of a straight pin.  It looks a bit more in scale than the plastic one that was attached to the steering column.

Since I built out the firewall I had to move the engine forward about 2mm as well as the radiator mount on the chassis.  The body slopes down at the front so I shortened the radiator a couple of millimeters and modified the electric fan to fit.  

I originally lowered the front suspension about 3.5mm but when I test fit it I wanted to lower it another millimeter.  I sanded down the top of the chassis rails that attach to the floor to lower the front some more.  It worked out nicely.  Another problem I encountered with the lowered front suspension was that the tires rubbed up against the inside of the front fenders.  I shortened the upper control arms and the lower suspension cross member with the control arms.  I moved the wheels/tires in about 1.75mm on each side.  Now there's plenty of clearance and the wheels can steer.

The front wheels in this kit represent 13" wheels in 1:1.  They looked too small in diameter compared to the rear wheels.  For the front wheels I'm using a set of rear wheels from a Revell 40 Coupe Street Rod.  I had to cut the opening of the tires larger to fit them.  

It's basically all together now except for the Enderle bug catcher and the part that goes underneath which I had to re-spray with Molotow. It should be finished in a day or two and I'll post pictures.

Thanks for looking in. :)

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Posted

Man, these things come out beautifully.  A long time ago, I tried to convert a gasser to this basic setup.  Beretta P/S chassis.  Never finished that one, but was able to finish the Revell.  Straight up box stock build.   Yours is going to be even better!  

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Posted

Thanks guys!

The lighting isn't so good today.  I'll take more pictures and post in the Under Glass section as soon as I get some sun.

Here's a quick picture with the hood off.  This picture isn't showing the color to well or the darker fade along the bottom.  

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Posted

Thanks Randy and Curtis!

It looks like the sun will be out on Saturday so I'll take pictures.  It's been overcast so it's making the color look dark red and not as shiny as it really looks.

Here's another picture with the hood on.

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  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Nicely done indeed. I've built these with a lowered front end, much in the same way you did. But it's not clear to me how you brought the rear end down. How did you do it. Nice low stance overall.

Posted (edited)
46 minutes ago, Bernard Kron said:

Nicely done indeed. I've built these with a lowered front end, much in the same way you did. But it's not clear to me how you brought the rear end down. How did you do it. Nice low stance overall.

Thanks for the compliments!

I didn't bring the rear down.  It's in the stock kit's position.  I made the rear wheel openings smaller so that must be making the rear look lower.  On page 1 I show pictures of the original and modified rear wheel openings.

Here's my post of the finished car in the Under Glass section.  It shows more pictures of the rear wheel openings.

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/143924-revell-41-willys-street-rod/

Edited by crowe-t
Posted

I was trying to give the body a more stock appearance.  Looking lower in the rear was an added benefit.

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