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Posted

I started this kit in December 2012 over Christmas break. I purchased my first ever Airbrush & decided to use this kit as a practice kit for honing my AB skills. In the next few posts I'll explain the issues that I've had. that have kept this on and off the bench for 5 years!

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Posted

Clearly there are much better kits than this to represent the real Ferrari GTO, but apart from the body shell, it's been a fulfilling build, and includes a number of firsts for me...

Posted

The Chassis and Engine went together really well, no real issues, I added ali tubes for pots, Tamiya tape painted black for the drive belt & Prancing Horse symbols on the cam covers, everything else is stock

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Posted

That looks brilliant, I bought on for 6 dollars a couple months ago only missing the wheels.  I had never seen one built, I am not a big Ferrari fan but this looks interesting and for 6 bucks who could go wrong.  I will be watching so lets get it finished because so far awesome work.B)

Posted
On ‎4‎/‎7‎/‎2018 at 6:47 PM, Dann Tier said:

WOW!!...you are right, that undercarriage detail is actually really good!....too bad they screwed the body, huh?....looking good!!

Yes the detail is excellent - under the body! & Thanks!

On ‎4‎/‎9‎/‎2018 at 4:36 PM, FabbricaP said:

Wow the chassis and engine are looking very nice indeed. Hopefully the body doesnt fight you too much :)

The bosy has fought me - for 5 years! That update is for later

On ‎4‎/‎9‎/‎2018 at 4:48 PM, Brizio said:

Looks great! Never saw one of this build, looking forward to see more.

Thanks!

9 hours ago, DumpyDan said:

That looks brilliant, I bought on for 6 dollars a couple months ago only missing the wheels.  I had never seen one built, I am not a big Ferrari fan but this looks interesting and for 6 bucks who could go wrong.  I will be watching so lets get it finished because so far awesome work.B)

Thanks!

Posted

This next update shows where I am with the interior - it's complete now, the seat belts were a P/E addition, the cross brace is just a bit of ali tube, the gear stick is a dress pin (stolen from the wife, pls don't tell her)

Mainly finished with Tamiya acrylics airbrushed, except the steering wheel & the glossy bits - which are hand brush painted...

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  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

The main reason this build was on the bench for 5 years is the body shell.

It has been primered, sanded and filled again and a gain about 5 times.

It has been AB'ed with Tamiya X-7 acrylic, major orange peel & fully sanded back to the bone

Then it has been primed again with Halford's grey and the paint cracked all over, sanded back again

All this sanding has left some details lost along with my patience, but I'm determined to finish it...

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Posted

Ouch! Is that regular Halfords grey primer from the can? I've NEVER seen that happen with either the Grey Primer or Grey Plastic Primer in a two decades of using them...

Could there be something weird with the plastic?

best,

M.

Posted

I built one of these 48 years ago, but not nearly as good as your version.  Very clean and realistic.  Hope the paint finally starts cooperating.

Posted
15 hours ago, Dann Tier said:

Man that SUCKS!!!, but I admire your sticking to it!!....you WILL beat it, because you're a great builder!!

Thanks Gann, means a lot from you, I've seen your builds!

11 hours ago, DiscoRover007 said:

Switch to lacquer?

I will be, hopefully this weekend

4 hours ago, Matt Bacon said:

Ouch! Is that regular Halfords grey primer from the can? I've NEVER seen that happen with either the Grey Primer or Grey Plastic Primer in a two decades of using them...

Could there be something weird with the plastic?

best,

M.

I think it's because I over-sanded the first coat, and when spraying out if the can from Halfords you get a lot of volume, I'm putting it down to experience...

1 hour ago, GerN said:

I built one of these 48 years ago, but not nearly as good as your version.  Very clean and realistic.  Hope the paint finally starts cooperating.

48years, that's amazing! Whist it's not an accurate representation of the car, it's well engineered...

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

This has been sanded back soooo much, it cracked in 2 places, but was repaired and primed  with Zero Paints Primer, several coats with sanding in-betweenCracked.jpg.cef49751f05d6cab2db854a8b6f659df.jpg5af6bee9bfe46_crackrepair.jpg.a82ac2daf09a60b310a86076a355e31b.jpg

It was then sprayed with several light coats of Tamiya Aerosol - I always heat the cans before spraying, and left it 5 to 10 mins between spraying

and left it for 4 weeks prior to adding Tamiya Aerosol clear - using the same light coats technique

It has, unfortunately crazed... I don't know why. It was immediate.

I'm going to try to polish it out, if that doesn't work, i'll probably weather it!

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this build is quite unlucky...

Posted

I feel your pain, I've got the same sort of thing going on right now with a '36 Ford.  Next attempt is Future clearcoat.  That engine and interior look great!

Posted

Sorry to hear you are still having problems!, the rest of it is looking so good!! Once in a GREAT while, I get this with my Duplicolor, so I sand it down with 2000, then shoot another coat of kolor, then filler primer, and sand it again with 2000, and try the kolor again, and its usually fine after that.

Posted (edited)

I may be wrong on this but I think your paint woes stem from your original paint..... Acrylic. Once you sprayed the primer ( I guessing it is lacquer) that's where the problem began. You sprayed lacquer over, what I believe to be, acrylic enamel and that's why you're having the paint issues. If the problem  persists maybe you could strip all the paint down to the bare plastic and start from the beginning.  Just a suggestion. Hope this helps.

Edited by Adhsdad
Posted
On ‎5‎/‎13‎/‎2018 at 9:51 AM, Adhsdad said:

I may be wrong on this but I think your paint woes stem from your original paint..... Acrylic. Once you sprayed the primer ( I guessing it is lacquer) that's where the problem began. You sprayed lacquer over, what I believe to be, acrylic enamel and that's why you're having the paint issues. If the problem  persists maybe you could strip all the paint down to the bare plastic and start from the beginning.  Just a suggestion. Hope this helps.

Maybe you are right!

So I've gone and bought another model kit. It's OOP, but it's regularly available on ebay at a reasonable price. Probably cheaper than the cost of stripping the current model anyway.

So, I've started the prep the new model & will stick to a paint type this time around! I've already started to sand off the moulding joint lines and wiper blades...20180512_220545.jpg.a2749efbb1ad722c25a869b5bacc3cb1.jpg

Posted

Hopefully all you paint woes are in the past.

On the bright side, you can build the first body with the second chassis as a before/barn find/in need of a major rebuild!

  • 10 months later...
Posted

OK, so I got back on this on the weekend, the new body has been sanded, filled, cleaned, sanded filled etc a few times, and we still have transition marks. I'm using Vallejo filler, Mr Filler filler & bondo (automotive repair filler) without much sanding luck... I'm using tamiya 320, 400 & 600 grit papers too.

I shall soldier on, I had to post this, as it's basically a few weeks worth of work!

Thanks for the comments too guys!

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