Has anyone tried the Testor's Airbrush Propellant Spray Set? If so, any tips?

[Lightbox]

The product I am talking about seems to not have a specific name and has little reviews or anything (From what I have found). Here is a video of it: 

 

 

Basically, a bottle of compressed air with a cap and a bottle for the paint. A simplified airbrush, I guess? Anyway, I have one of these, but I'm not quite sure what to do with it. What I do know is that it is best to thin out the paint beforehand, and should be used on smaller detailed parts, and probably not on the body.  But I want to hear what you guys think. Have any of you guys heard of it, and/or tried it? If so, do you have any tips or similar products to use? Thanks for your time. 

[bobthehobbyguy]

Unfortunately those cans of propellants really don't work that well. They cool down when being used and you are lucky to get one model painted. You are much better off to get a compressor. 

[Joe Handley]

I agree with Bob, I've tried those cans and they don't work. You're better off with at least a 5 gal. tank and a bicycle pump or plug in compressor. I've actually had those cans freeze up on my and the only way around it was to put them in warm to hot water to counter that.

[Don Wheeler]

Thanks for posting this.  It's an interesting concept.  If you watch the video, the guy only uses it for small items.  It should be fine for that, and it does minimize cleanup.  His other videos show that he has regular airbrushes too and is an accomplished modeler.

Don

[Pete J.]

This is basically and updated version of the old Basic badger external mix airbrush.  It is better that hand brushing but only marginally.  I used one 40 years ago and it got me started.  The big pit fall is the cans.  The more you spray, the colder they get and eventually they will be spraying frozen paint.  The cans are relatively pricey and it wouldn't take to long to add up to the cost of aa reasonable airbrush and compressor.

If it is all you can afford, then it is a good place to start, but long term you would be better off saving your money for a quality airbrush and compressor.   

[peteski]

Yes, the propellant cans are similar to the ones which came with airbrushes years ago. To add to what has been said, you have no control over the air pressure (and that is a very important factor when airbrushing).  When the can is warm the pressure is high. As it cools down during use, the pressure drops.

[dshue76]

Spray paint is easier and works better in my opinion as an alternative to this kit. That style bottle is a huge pain to clean and as others have said the pressure changes with use. I used every version of cheap Testors airbrush, external mix and internal mix, aerosol propellant, and Testors compressor, and none work as well as a true airbrush. They really suck at spraying water-based paints especially Model Master Acryl, those paints tend to dry as they exit the tip of the cap. In fact, I so loathed painting with them that I only used them for bodies with enamels then I switched to Duplicolor Lacquer spray cans. Now I have a Paasche Talon 3F dual action gravity brush and a Paasche H single action external mix siphon brush and now I love airbrushing. With a good airbrush, it's no problem to go to the bench and get some painting done even if I only have 15 minutes to spend doing it. Whereas with that style bottle I can assure you that you need to clean that tube and the tiny hole in the tip before storing, the red stopper cap alone will not stop lacquer or water-based paints from drying in it or enamels from thickening up in it. A good airbrush only requires 30 seconds of spraying thinner through it and a couple wipes on the tip with a thinner soaked Q-tip and you're done. I do periodically tear my Talon apart for thorough cleaning and lubrication but not after every use. 

To add, after watching the video I can paint that same nitrous bottle with my Talon and be done with cleaning 5 minutes before he's done cleaning that spray cap and tube, especially with red, if not completely cleaned out and rinsed with clean thinner that red will show itself if the next paint used is a light color. Same with silver.  I assure you any teeny tiny bit of trash or color residue left over after using his method to clean WILL cause you grief in the future. I have zero qualms about spraying a single part with either airbrush, to use his example of the nitrous bottle, it would take me 5 minutes from the time I decide to paint it to the time I hang my airbrush up after cleaning. That includes jigging the part for holding and thinning the paint. I use mostly water based paints and will often spray a coat on a body then switch colors and do small parts then switch back to body color for a second coat 10-15 minutes later, I may spray 2 or 3 different colors in that 10-15 minutes between body sprays. And last of all I RARELY adjust air pressure, but If I do it's super simple and the regulator is within easy reach. I have found that consistent paint consistency will allow you to leave air pressure the same from one color or use to another.

Edited July 28, 2018 by dshue76

[Don Wheeler]

Lightbox --   Since you have one, why not try it out and let us know what you think?

Don