dshue76

The Gorilla glue works fine. But the tips clog with dried glue really fast. I have had bottles of the extreme power last for years after opening.

My glues of choice.

If you use too much it will soften the plastic. This softening will spread past the joint. I still have builds and parts from the 90's that were put together with this stuff and the joints are still soft.

Bruder stuff is 1/16

The one on the right hand(passenger) side of the radiator should be a coolant filter, the one on the left hand(drivers) side of the radiator is the power steering reservoir, And the one on the firewall is a fuel filter(shown upside down) .

Same for all Mack trunion and stands.

That is stranded and it holds a coil nicely yet still sags. Years ago I bought pre coiled trailer supplies from spaulding trading and shipping and they were solid core wire and much too stiff.

Add Mack rears and a pair of NDT's up front and you'll have a period correct military Paystar 5000. I don't mind the tires, it's something different on the shelf.

Trading smog for smug.

Also don't be afraid to use solid brass, steel, and aluminum wire from companies like K&S Precision Metals. It comes in many diameters and the thinner diameters works very well for wires and small diameter hoses. It bends easily, holds its shape, and is easily painted. .015" brass wire works very well for representing 3/8" air lines, even if they need to be coiled. For tubes and hoses I use, .010" material for 1/4", .012" material for 5/16", .015 material for 3/8", .020" material for 1/2", .025" material for 5/8", .030" material for 3/4", .035" material for 7/8" and .040" material for 1". Fuel Injection tubes I use .012" brass to represent 5/16" lines. Small air lines I use .015" brass to represent 3/8" lines Large air lines I use .020" brass to represent 1/2" lines For fuel supply lines I use .025 or .030" to represent 5/8" or 3/4" hoses. For Hydraulics I use .080" material to represent 2" suction hose, and .040" material for 1" pressure and return hose. For electrical wiring I use all sorts of material, braided fishing line, monofilament fishing line, sewing thread, brass wire(this includes stranded conductor wires from small wires) Like I said in a previous post I use the cord wires from a Play Station 2 controller for trailer supplies. It's outside diameter is .035" But on a wire that small the individual stranded conductor wires are .006", a few of these strung together make for a convincing wire harness. .006" in 1/25 scale is around 3/16". I'm all for eyeballing but plug wires the size of heater hoses bug me.

I use the wiring from an old Play Sation 2 controller cord for trailer air and electric supply. The insulation diameter is .035". 1 inch in 1/25 scale is .040" meaning .035" is a scale 7/8"

I was watching a video on youtube, it was an in cab shot of a Cat 992G loading Cat 777F haul trucks. One truck driver was caught on camera getting out and watering the left front tire from under the truck.

It's just storage. My research led me to original brochures that mention it and show it.

Here are the mounted guns that I didn't use on the build but painted anyway,

This is a build that was supposed to be a "slump buster" build, but like all builds for me it took a little longer than expected. It took me hours to find the bumper markings I wanted and rather than delay the build even longer by trying to come up with decals for the bumper markings I hand painted them with a toothpick. All paint (except for the rear lights) is craft acrylic, I mixed the paint by eye. It has washes of craft paint and then sidewalk chalk and make-up for weathering. The unit numbers on the bumper are from a picture I found of a Jeep belonging to the 326th Airborne Medical Company which supported the 101st Airborne Division. Of course my Jeep doesn't have the litter racks that the 326th used.

I'll have to put this on my must get list alongside the Porsche Junior kit!

I think Revell tooled too many new automotive kits too fast and we see what happened to them. AMT, on the other hand, is bringing back some old tooling and they are doing fine. I love what Revell was putting out in the way of new tooling and supported them as much as possible and will continue to do so. But the car end of our hobby seems to be going towards collecting old out of production kits so repops are selling like hot cakes to guys who want to build a subject but can't bring themselves to build a vintage kit. As far as the 80's & 90's NASCAR kits go, I'm not sure why there are so many on the market, I have bought and built them all since they were new releases. In fact, I'm getting ready to buy a few Lumina and Grand Prix kits. But I do remember buying all I could afford of the AMT NASCAR kits at Big Lots in the mid to late 90's for dirt cheap, like buying 3 kits for the MSRP of 1. I bought more than I could ever build or part out. I still use bodies from those kits as paint and weathering test beds. As far as Revell/Monogram NASCAR kits I've built most of them out of the box and many more were built to replicate local racers. I've built kits of drivers that I don't even like. My most recent kit purchase was the Danica Patrick Aspen Dental car. Unless I get a free set of Harvick or Bowyer decals for it I'll build it box stock.

I believe I got this, I never did find the original picture though.

I spent wayyyy to much time trying to find this, thing.

If you look through the tabs in the "about us" section the tab for "The future of modeling" talks about new releases coming in 2012...

And "styling based on" has no inherent link with "cloned".

Like I said Ford already did it and moved on. Here is the 2012 Super Duty.

I forgot all about the stock Thunderbird SC kits. I will be following to see how it comes together. I always passed on these when they were new, I was more interested in the NASCAR versions at the time, but I may have to track one of these down.

The Yamaha engine was the one used in the Taurus SHO it was a DOHC 60* V6, it wasn't used in the SC. The SC used the Canadian produced 3.8l "Essex", 90* V6 pushrod engine. Super Charged Super Coupe Super Chicken This was the car of many names. But I don't think Mustang buyers of the time were worried about the 5 to 20 hp difference.

When I look at that 2019 GMC All I see is styling based on the Ford Super Duty. Not much catch up needed in my opinion since Ford nailed it when they started doing it in what, 2010 for Super Duty and 08 for the F-150? Besides the Super Duty is 3 times the truck that any competing model Chevy or GMC is. The GM offerings are still too optioned, from a cowboy cadillac to somewhat of a medium duty truck, GM 2500 still runs the gambit from being light duty incapable of hauling 1/2 a ton through to a heavy duty with the same capacity of a 3500 SRW. I abandoned GM because there were just too many options for suspension and brakes. To buy a GM 2500 truck off the lot and get anything close to the useful capacity of an F-250 Super Duty is too much of a chore. The Super Duty is the same no matter what creature comforts you want. Sorry but Ram 2500 and Fords F-250 Super Duty line are the only Real trucks in their class. Gm does fine with the 3500, but even then I would choose a Ram or Super Duty for long term quality.