dshue76

I left them bare.

I was looking over Lovefordgalaxies 1940 Ford coupe builds the last couple of days and now his 53 Victoria and it made me take my 53 off the shelf and look it over. Sure enough my white walls are starting to burn. It's been complete for about 15 years. Resin pieces would be nice.

Great looking build. This is one of my all time favorite kits. Most of Lindbergs kits are excellent.

Like I said I've never done the tank trailer but the L700 is a great kit. The only re-engineering done on my builds of this truck is the rear suspension is lowered. Follow the directions to a T on the door hinges. I also have a wip of this truck that's being built with a scratch built 10' dump bed.

I've never done the tanker but the L700 is one of my top 10 favorite kits.

Years ago I passed on a beautiful and mint Sequoia green with the white interior 72 Cutlass Supreme hardtop because a friend mentioned that he might have to sell his Aqua Mist green 64 442. Needless to say, he didn't have to sell his 442 after all and the 72 Cutlass found a buyer. About 10 years later my buddy did sell his 442 and gave me the first opportunity to buy it, but as Murphy's law prescribes, I wasn't in a financial position to do so. I loved that 442 but I kick myself to this day for passing on the 72. The 442 was all there but needed lots of love, the 72 was mint. This was in 1998 and both were priced around $3500......

There's a Marlin that shows up to a local car show every year. While I'm not a fan of that style Charger, I kind of like the Marlin.

1978-1980 Olds Cutlass, in any trim level so long as it's a 2 dr notchback. My first car was an 80 Cutlass Supreme. This is my Current 80 Cutlass Supreme.

This is my usual manifold paint. It's Model Master Burnt Iron. For manifolds, I brush it on.

I would use liquid solvent cement if the clear part will be painted. My go-to brand is Plastruct, either their "Plastic Weld" formula or their "Bondene" formula. But Model Master sells a version as does Tamiya.

For me, I base it on how thick the paint is to start with but generally all airbrush paints get mixed about 10 minutes before spraying. But if it's really thick before I thin it I like to give it some extra soak time. If it's supposed to be thinned for airbrush use or if I've mixed it for a prior use I'll add thinner to the airbrush cup as I test spray if needed.

The original Lindberg 40 Ford Deluxe 2 in 1 kit with the black and yellow with flames hotrod and the blue stock version on the box was originally molded in blue, then the 3 in 1 kit with the black and yellow with flames version, red stock version and police car version was molded in white. All releases since have been molded in white and it is still easy to find in the Dodge L700 kit with the flatbed trailer and 40 Ford Deluxe as the load, but the 40 Ford Deluxe in the last 3 L700 kits that I've bought has an extreme amount of flash and very heavy seam lines. The L700 tooling is very crisp and clean in all 3 kits.

Welcome to the forum Tyler.

7mm in 1/25 = .011" or .28 mm, in 1/24= .0117" or .292 mm 8mm in 1/25= .0125" or .32 mm, in 1/24= .013" or .333 mm Most wires I see used on models are far larger than this. But in 1/24=1/25 scale, I wouldn't worry about the difference in size between 7 mm and 8 mm wires.

The inner door frames are great! I'm contemplating a similar build of this van and want to open the sliding side and rear doors. I'll definitely be following along!

Thanks. One of these days I want to tackle a European truck. I like your use of an out of the ordinary paint scheme.

The chrome on the wings is very very thin. If you try and polish it you will likely wear through. Paint or bare metal foil make them look great.

Then I guess the new seller I came across isn't him.

Nice build. I built this kit for the first time a couple years ago as a work van. While it's a simple kit it was challenging due to the amount of flash and heavy mold seams on every single part. As far as imperfections go just strive to make the next one better than the last. Detailing can help draw the eye away from imperfections. The basic details like chrome or black window trim and gaskets, black or other color washes in grills and panel lines make a world of difference and are fairly easy to do(Sharpie markers come in handy for this type work)

Sometimes those of us who like to kitbash don't like the donor kit we need a single part from. Other times we like the donor kit so much that the single part we want needs replaced to use in the donor kit, in that case, it's a perpetual issue. And that same issue applies to long out of production kits. Say your JoHan Heavenly Hearse is missing a crucial part, then buying a complete kit only to use that part isn't very feasible because you'll want to replace it's missing part to make it complete.

But to most hobbyists, if it regularly goes for $20 and the seller is asking $25 the buyer will likely pay. But if the seller wants $30 or $35 the buyer may not purchase. I think for the most part when people say they aren't going to overpay they have an idea of the going price of the item and base their value accordingly.

Great Job! One of my favorite kits. My build of this kit is done without the rear mudflaps for the same reason. I never thought to check their fit in any of the many mockups I did before final assembly. I know what to do to fix it but I just haven't gotten around to doing it yet.

As an example, I absolutely love the Revell/Monogram 91 Ford F350 kit. I bought a bunch of started kits from ebay a couple of years before the last re-release and some were missing parts. I could have paid PJ's Hobbies over a hundred dollars for what I needed. I didn't. I filtered him out and found all but two items and paid $25, 1 set of glass, one set of door handles, 1 of 2 grills needed, 1 rear wheel(got all 4 wheels), 1 tail light set, and 1 complete bed. The other item I needed was a front bumper. Pj wanted $30 for the remaining grill and bumper. In MY opinion, $30 was too much, I chose not to overpay. That saved $30 eventually bought a complete kit when it was re-released. He set his price, I made my purchase decision. Retail 101. I don't begrudge his prices one bit.

Every buyer has a top price they're willing to pay, anything more would be overpaying. Just because a seller has the bumper I need and it's the only one listed on all of ebay it doesn't mean I'll pay any price. In the same way as sellers are free to set their price, buyers are free to spend as they see fit and they are also free to set their maximum bid.

I believe he just has a new name. I'm sure that I'm not the only one that figured out how to filter his auctions out of search results and I learned how to do it from a post about him that was either on this board or scale autos board. If enough people have filtered him out it has to be hard on sales. Just the other day In perusing ebay I got results that looked just like his auctions but a different name. I was focused on my search and didn't note the name, but the similarity was so striking that I did double check the name to see if it was him. I could care less that he parts out kits. My issue was with his auctions clogging results from other sellers. Most items he sells are sold by others for far less money. I'll just keep an eye out for his new name and filter accordingly.