dshue76

I DO look at 1:1 versions daily, today, yesterday, tomorrow etc and have for years, these cars in 1:1 are my hobby. I'll measure my 1:1 and the kit and see for myself.

SEM should have the correct interior color in rattle cans.

All of the G Body 4 door cars had fixed rear glass, it was due to the door reinforcement bars. But you did get a wing window back there, Power was an option for that little trinket as well.

I think anything you are seeing is due to camera angle. The 1;1 pic makes the car look short. It's the effect of showing more of the hood surface. If you ever get a chance to see one in person you will get it. The issue I have is the horizontal lower body line, it's either too high or maybe the bend is just too soft. Could be both. But it won't stop me from building. I've been waiting for a G Body Cutlass since the early 90's. Now that mine are on their way I'm going to my local hobby shop to pick up the Buick GN and 86 Elky kits and I'm going to scour the bay for the Monte SS and 80 Monte kits. Here is a question, on a G Body forum a guy made reference to having built a G Body Malibu kit, was their ever such a kit? I don't remember ever seeing one. Also claret red should be the perfect color for the interior, the shade does not change between the plastic, vinyl and cloth just the sheen. Olds called the color dark maple from 81 to 88 but prior it was dark claret red, which is an actual color although rather hard to find in paint these days. The Dupli Color Chrysler claret red isn't right.

The roof is too long and the c pillar is way toooo fat. I thought it was built in the late 80's. All that painted chrome is saddening. At least he didn't paint it hot pink...

I should have my kits next week. I am pretty sure the old Good Year GT Radials that Revell used to use will fit and are the correct tire for a factory new 1983 H/O Cutlass. The lightning rod shifters are a pretty useful item. You can't over shift with them and they are more streetable than aftermarket ratchet shifters.

Picked these up at my local Ollies, it's not my favorite body style but I think I can make them look good. And they are hard to pass up when you get 4 for almost the price of 1 kit at a hobby shop. I was hping they had more of the Dodge L-700 but they were sold out.

I could not find anything about this car. My downfall was looking for it in the wrong country. I thought for sure it was Italian.

I use the clear testors glue that is made for clear parts. It is water based and any excess cleans off easily. You could also put a small dab of thick CA on the wire before pushing it in. Or dip a piece of thin music wire, @.015", in the thick CA then use it to coat the inside of the hole.

Unless you have a paint with gigantic metal flake your lacquer will go through a ,25mm needle and tip. I use a Paasche Talon and my preferred needle and tip are .25mm for oil based enamels, water based craft acrylics, and lacquers. Your problem I believe has to do with technique, air temp, spray pressure or how you are thinning the paint. I know for a fact that when I have the issue you are asking about it is due to the paint being too thick.and I would still get the same results if I would try a .38mm tip.The tip size is more about spray pattern and volume than particle size. All decanting process' require adding thinner since while you have to let the entrapped propellent escape, the thinner is evaporating. Not adding thinner will cause the paint to dry on and in your tip. When this happens pour the paint out of the cup and re mix then clean the needle and tip. Mixing in the cup after paint starts drying in the tip has never worked for me. Practice to get the hang of thinning and to see the effects of too thin vs too thick. The plastic "for sale" signs and such make for great target practice. The typical practice lessons for airbrushing, dots of various sizes and lines of varying widths, and start stop points also help you understand thinning.

All the engine is is a small block Chevy. Any pictures of a small block Chevy will answer your plug wire questions. They go near the exhaust manifolds on the sides of the heads, never through the valve covers on a small block Chevy. The coil would be your choice since you aren't building a stock engine. In the real world I mount coils to the firewall near the distributor since excessive vibration and heat aren't good for them and a shorter wire is better for spark. Her are a couple pics of the small block in my car,

I do it frequently. Just recently I started tearing my AMT Peterbilt Big Stick cable wrecker apart to use the wrecker bed with a Kenworth T600 day cab with fairings and make the wrecker bed hydraulic. At some point in the near future I'm going to tear one of my ERTL International Payhauler 350's down to repaint it in white. For me it's that I look at these for years and they start loosing interest, I could take them off the shelf and put them in a box and let something else take its place. But in these two cases I had better ideas for them that would be more interesting to look at. The Kenworth was a build that I was never happy with, back when I bought the kit around 1998 I really liked the style of the truck but after I built it with the sleeper and it was painted bright yellow I just didn't care for it. The Pete wrecker had an accident and its driveline was already in use for another project. I like the looks of this version better than either truck individually. The Payhauler is one of two that I built from original issue kits, prior to the reissue, with different shades of the same paint and this one had a few modifications due to missing parts. I was never happy with the color, it is too bright kind of like the old Cat yellow. It also has no weathering. This time it will have weathering and some plumbing done. Sometimes I really just start to dislike a finished build and will tear it apart to make use of its parts for something that I will like more. Or interests change, I turned my Revell Dodge ram VTS into a duallie with an 8' dump bed. I never glue bodies to chassis' or interior tubs to either unless the floor is part of the chassis plate. I almost never glue engines in place. This lets me be able to rework builds a little easier. Like the Kenworth T600 above, the sleeper was never glued to the cab so it was simple to separate the parts. This started when I was young and couldn't afford a massive stock pile of kits and I still do it. I actually enjoy doing it.

I use bare metal foil topped with turn signal amber and stop light red paint. Silver paint tends to re wet when coated with these paints, this is the reason I use foil.

Most weights listed by Cat are minus attachments. So most weights don't include the blade or rear ripper assembly. But even at that the model of the D8H from AMT should not exceed 70,000. If it had ROPS or a heavier blade it might be close.

I haven't got a kit yet but a note on the wheels, they were only a 7" wide wheel and had 4 1/2" backspacing. That amount of backspacing really makes them look narrower. They were also a 15" wheel. They also had no trim ring, They were chrome so it was unnecessary. Also 215/65-15 Good Year GT radials would be the correct tire. I have heard they plan to do the FE3-X and an 85 442. The 442 would have the correct hood for all 81-88 cars that weren't a H/O. This kit does represent a SHOWROOM STOCK 1983 Hurst Olds.

Looks wrong to me, either your base coat was so rough that the clear can't shine or the clear coat is bad. I'll pick #2. I'm not a fan of testors, and I'm reminded why everytime I give their products another chance at redemption. I just got a bottle of their acryl flat clear that left a gloss finish (more gloss than the base coat)... My opinion is their products are over priced and low quality across the board. You would be better off using the Dupli Color products I've never had an issue with their stuff. Quality is always good and I haven't had any problems with them being too hot. And their lacquer smells like lacquer, no funny business with the chemistry.

If the sail is large enough it will cover the car so no one will ever have to look at that again.

I don't really blame the seller from the auction Mr. Buick posted, that one started at $10. But the person doing the bidding looks like a possible shill bidder.

I'm willing to bet this seller is the reason I couldn't find one of these where I looked.

But it's rare and hard to find....

I tried to upload some pics to PB a few minutes ago and all attempts failed. PB used to be really good but the last few years it has gotten pretty lame. It takes me forever to load the page and I usually won't visit anyones PB to see in progress pics. it slows my whole computer down. I'm using Google Chrome.

I went to my local Ollies and they finally had some good kits. I grabbed the Dodge L700 withe the flatbed and 40 Ford coupe, a Revell 97 F-150 XLT and the Lindberg Dodge Charger SRT8 Super Bee. I always loved the Lindbrg 40 Ford, I have never built the Dodge L700, the Charger I grabbed Mostly because it's a 4 door and the F-150 I got because I have too many of the Revell F-350 Duallie kits and need to add some variety. I'm not a big fan of the styling of that style F-150.

I want some but I'm not desperate like that. This is what Revell wants. The higher the kits go on there the higher they end up in the store.

I was using Google Chrome on my phone when I was having issues.

I've been having trouble with photobucket for quite a while, the adds and BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH their site runs slow it way down. And this past Sunday I couldn't upload pics to my bucket using my phone I did it Saturday but Sunday it seemed like they where changing the way you upload and it wasn't working, every time I clicked the "choose a photo or video" button it just recycled back to the same screen.