dshue76

I always use flat red or gloss red with a flat clear. Looks "right" to me.

I love it. The whole shop has been coming along great.

Thanks. I just realized I never painted the headliner and inner roof pillars...

My first finished build submission to the board, the MPC Roscoe's Patrol Car. Not a terrible kit and actually a fun build. My wife gave me this kit for Christmas a few years back.

It measures roughly 2 21/32" at the fender mating surface at the top, the rub strip on the bumper sticks on farther on each side. I measured that with the header and ground effects glued in place so it's the only point I could measure.

I wouldn't use it.

What irked me today was breaking the steering king pin and tie rod pin on the Dodge L700 that I just finished and was getting ready to photograph. I had consider gluing the steering solid and if I would have it would have saved me from making repairs to a completed model. Plain water or the Testors acryl thinner or a mix of the two. I airbrush it for the most part. I only brush paint small parts with it or use it as a wash for brushing. It doesn't seem to lay smooth brushing straight from the bottle, but with thinning it sometimes flows nicely. The coverage doesn't seem as good as enamels though so many coats are needed. If I could only brush paint an interior I would use the small Testors bottles of flat enamel colors. With a little thinning it goes on smooth and has great coverage. Wayne, I will give the dark blue substitute for black a try when mixing. Sometimes black is just too much.

The 4.3 L is just a Chevy 350 minus 2 cylinders. All SBC accessories mount to them. Tomorrow if I think about it I will see how the 3.8 from the GN looks in the Cutlass. A hot air turbo 3.8 would be the only way to make power from the lump of cast iron that robbed a boat anchor of it's existence. 110 HP I think was an over estimate.

I use water based craft paint. What I mixed were Apple Barrel Real Red, AB Brown Oxide and AB Jet Black. I just add more of one or the other of red and brown until it's right. A tiny bit of black goes a long way. Then I gave it a coat of flat clear The front seats haven't had the flat clear treatment yet. Later I will address the different surfaces from flat to semigloss. I'm also not going Concours. I can't stand the black engine so I went with a shade of blue that I used on all of the Olds engines I've ever put into one of the various Cutlass' I've owned.

I've used all the above in the past and usually have good luck. Another method is to soak it in hot tap water and try to work a sharp tool between the parts. Or work at the joint in the same manner as scribbing a panel line except use the sharp side of the blade. Being very careful of course.

Very nice builds.

I can picture a raccoon being able to flick a Bic

What irked me is breaking the tip off in my only airbrush last night. Luckily I got the broken threads out of the body and will have to use the next larger size setup until my parts get here Tuesday. Live and learn I guess. If you have a Paasche Talon TG then consider using Teflon tape on the tip threads to seal them, tightening to stop the bubbles in the cup is what lead to my problem. I saw a Youtube video where a pro used the tape method. I think it will be the way to go. When this happened I had just mixed up some custom paint for the 83 Hurst Olds interior in a cup since all of my jars are in use. With nothing to store it in I had to toss it.

If you want to catch mice in traps with reliability use gummy bears. Just be sure it is mashed onto the trigger. First it makes the trap more sensitive, second mice love em, third no amount of light touch gets the mouse any gummy goodness.

Only the 3.8 Buick V6 would be correct for a Cutlass. It is the only V6 option available in them from 78 to 88. In the real world any Rear drive Gm engine could be made to fit pretty easily. The 4.3 was used in some Chevy and GMC G body cars. Canada had different options and I believe the Chevy 305 was available in the Olds there.

That would have been a fun set to play with. GE was doing all they could to market their home automation systems. I wonder if any of these kits swayed parents to buy the real thing?

I've worked closely with exterminators in situations just like this. I make repairs and seal out the critters and they remove the critters. Sometimes just going into the attic to do the repairs chases them out. In some cases the vermin need to be killed or they keep coming back. Consider yourself lucky that it isn't a raccoon. They will tear your house apart to get in, they love wet insulation and I have seen them rip holes through roofs to get at it. Very destructive. Usually if a squirrel is nesting in the attic the nest is easy to spot unless there is a lot of stored items up there. Bats are tough to keep out. They fit through tiny holes and gaps. As was already stated the electrical wiring is something that needs addressed immediately.

Yes the badges are there. Every thing from the original issue is there, some new decals are added is the only change. Of course the tires have no sidewall markings just like past reissues. I didn't notice the box art was missing them.

So the Monte Carlo SS and GN had the valve covers molded to the heads? I built both in the 90's and don't remember that. Not a big deal on this because they look good. The bottle on the passenger side inner fender is the coolant reservoir. I hope the kits I haven't opened don't have short shots, I don't know how long it'll be before they get built if at all. I bought extras of this kit and the 91 ford duallie kit. I figure I can buy 3 for $60 now were as in a couple years the 91 duallie will be gone from store shelves and again be $60 each on the auction site. This kit may end up like the Street Burner Monte SS and stay reasonable but just in case I want some on hand just so if the mood strikes me I can grab one and start building.

76 Olds 442 with the 455.

Sometimes I don't prime. It depends on the final color and how translucent the bare plastic is. Primer as used by most modelers does nothing to help key the color coat. most polish it prior to paint. I did learn the hard way that two sided parts like dump truck beds need primed when painted light colors.

I use Testors clear parts cement and window maker. Dries clear. and works well. I also use it for gluing fine detail painted parts. mistakes or excess can be cleaned with water before it dries.

V6's make plenty of vacuum, vacuum is only used to downshift under acceleration like passing or going up hill and in fact the vacuum modulator will still work even with low vacuum due to cam profiles a little more than mild. Really all it does is sense a change in vacuum and relay that to the transmission. In applications other than performance cars GM set the 200 R4 up for gentle shifts, that lead to the reliability issues. Also of note there are guys who build these that can make them reliable, there always have been but they are easier to find these days. I got my kits and have to say the body proportions look right, I did measure the front end and it is right. The upper body line seems a little heavy but I don't think it will aggravate me too much. The engine is ok. Valve covers molded to the heads?(they do look really nice though)I've never seen that on a detailed kit before. No oil filler tube. Very nice HEI distributor. The wheels are wrong in my opinion, they look to have a beauty ring profile. The actual wheels were a bare chrome rim and bare chrome center with the only trim being the center cap. The centers are the same as used on 14" wheels, the rims have a deeper drop to mate with that center. And those tires. They look worse in person. So many things they got right and so many they just phoned in. The windshield mounting is pretty cheesy. It would work fine if the car had a modern flush windshield but it doesn't and those mounting pads will show thru if used. If they went all the way down to the bottom of the opening and were thinner then they could represent the A pillar trim. I didn't try the quarter windows but they are wrong on the box art, these are flush mount not inset like 78-80. And then you have the rear view mirror mounting to the head liner, good grief Revell. No top to the engine cross member and you can see the top of the frame rails from the engine bay and they aren't finished. Such nice detail on the bottom of the frame then they muff the top. The side mirrors would have been better without the locating pins, they are to close to the lower edge and cause a short shot. I think it will still build up nice. There is plenty to improve on. I have Plenty of AMT Olds engines to steal oil fill tubes from. That is a pretty important visual cue on an Olds engine. The kit I opened has a sag in the roof right behind the passenger side B pillar, has anyone else had one like this? It also has a short shot on the inside of the passenger door that doesn't go all the way through. If the roof sag isn't a feature of all kits then I'll contact Revell for a replacement.

They all had copper/brass radiators from 78 to 88. When in good condition they were ok. The overdrive transmissions used could be made to work very well and are still used for performance builds. The performance models with the 200 R4 had better pressure and shift points than the non performance models. The Metric transmissions were garbage, after a while GM started replacing them under warranty with TH 350 transmissions, that is where the multi fit dual bolt pattern TH 350 came from. My Cutlass was originally a 231 V6 car that came with a metric trans and had a multi fit TH350 installed under warranty. The sad part is that GM kept installing metric transmissions on the assembly line long after the rampant failures became obvious.

I picked one up about a month ago at my LHS. I was really looking forward to this release, it's one of my favorites. The decals are very nice, much better than the original set. Other than decals it's the same kit as always.