dshue76

I could not find any pic of that exact car. I also have a question about that exact car and a detail it has that no others in my search had. I'll ask when the quiz is finished.

It's not the fault of the customers who "don't support the LHS". I'm sick of that kind of thinking. How much does the LHS sell 1/2 oz bottles of Testors enamel paint for? $3.99 is about the going rate in my area. I pay $5.49 for 8oz of Rustoleum. Testors per OZ= $7.98 Rustoleum per OZ= $0.69 Here's another, Testors thinner and brush cleaner 1.75 oz= $3.98 or $2.27 per oz Typical hardware store low odor mineral spirits 1 gal= $9.92 or $0.08 per oz These are only 2 tiny examples of the multitude of overpriced hobby specific items. And are true apples to apples comparisons. But in my opinion the Rustoleum brand is superior in every way to Testors. Rustoleum dries much faster. the plain mineral spirits also work better than Testors thinner and brush cleaner, in any of the forms testors markets it. So let me get this straight I'm the one trying to get over on my LHS? I will support my LHS for certain items but not when I know the price is over inflated. In mass production packaging differences do not come anywhere close to making up the differences in these two examples, and while I understand it isn't the LHS that sets the price these are the products they offer. It's false economy to buy products so grossly over priced.

Maybe after this quiz is finished you can tell me how to determine the exact model year?

I use dish soap and a stiff tooth brush for resin and plastic. All bodies get sanded before paint so that gets rid of any heavy contamination then they are scrubbed with the brush and dish soap and rinsed in hot water. Most styrene parts don't get washed at all, I've never had a problem. BUT the AMT 70 1/2 Baldwin Motion kit that I got a few weeks ago has an oily residue on it. All parts to that kit will have to be washed. All resin parts get washed and scrubbed with the dish soap and tooth brush and hot water before paint.

The make and model were simple the year I could only guess at.

I learned long ago how to scrape flash away with an exacto blade and honestly it doesn't bother me too much to do it. The only thing that irks me with some of the old AMT and MPC kits is when the halves of the mold weren't aligned. But even that annoyance doesn't stop me from liking a kit.

Bruce Springsteens original uncut "Glory Days" with an extra verse. For the most part with rock and alternative I only listen to original versions, to me the originals were off the cuff but when they try to reinterpret them it sounds contrived. Now groups like Lynyrd Skynyrd, I like all the different versions. Johnny Cash had some songs that he did differently on every album and during live shows, he made them all sound off the cuff. But I don't really consider them to be reinterpretations because they are for the most part folk songs that had already been done by many other artists and he was just trying to fit the song with the crowd in front of him. But even he wasn't immune to making his own songs sound contrived, he had a re-release of "I Walk The Line" that was slow and depressing. As far as covers go Willie Nelson is my favorite, especially when he does covers of songs that he wrote for other artists. It's great to hear what he envisioned while he wrote them, and to hear just how right the original artists got them.

I just started using plastic bins with drawers. But for years I have always just used empty kit boxes for most parts and a bigger cardboard box for the body, interior tub and chassis plate cemetery. Wheels in one box tied together in sets, tires in another tied in sets. Stock engines in one box, performance engines in another, misc engine parts in another box, transmissions in another box. Interior parts in their own box. body parts such as hoods, spoilers, bumpers light bezels etc in their own box. Clear parts in their own box and decals in their own box. There were more like the tire box, after a while it would get so full that I would have to segregate them into specific categories. At one time I had a box full of the Good Year Polyglass. They were too skinny for me but I always kept them... I always knew what box to grab even without labels. These days though space is limited and the bins just look a little neater.

Favorite kit is the Monogram F-350. Favorite build of all time the Lindberg 53 Ford Victoria. The Victoria was just one of those builds that went perfect from start to finish, no hiccups and turned out better than it should have with the skills and tools I had at the time.

Just got this on ebay And this came in the mail for me today,

I never understood why they didn't do the F150 from the F250/350 kit. The best selling truck of the day and all.

I re read your initial post, do you have the needle with 3 rings and the tip that came already mounted? If that's the case then that is most of your problem, it came with the 2 ring tip, needle and cap mounted.. if you look at two tips side by side you will see the difference in the rings that go around the square wrench flats. The air caps also have rings going around them that is apparent when two are held side by side.

Also don't be afraid to play with air pressure. Sometimes it's good to turn it down, like when shooting into enclosed spaces. Think inside corners of truck beds etc. I like to spay nooks and crannies at low air pressure first then turn it up for the open surfaces. Look through the instruction book and work through the practice lessons. It really makes a difference. You can use cheap craft paint for this, That also helps to get a feel for thinning.

My Paasche Talon has rings on all parts to determine size, the needle, tip and air cap. The fan cap that comes with it is for the large needle set only. It is important to get the tip tight, if you push the valve for air only and notice bubbles in the cup then the tip isn't tight enough. But don't go too tight and strip the threads. Look through the book that comes with it the trouble shooting guide is very helpful. The needle that comes on it is .38, kind of big for me, I use the .25 with water based acrylics. I thin until the paint just coats the side of the mixing jar as it runs down when dabbed on with a brush. Too thin and it just runs down the jar without leaving a coating. Too thick and it just kind of slowly runs down. Practice is your best friend. I use acrylic airbrush cleaner from Testors to clean the airbrush when using water based acrylics. Water just doesn't do it.

I love this build! It was well worth reading through the 11 pages. I really liked the version with only the boy, apple crate racer and hotrod highlighted. It kind of showed the link the boy would have with cars into adulthood.

My other hobbies are my 1980 Olds Cutlass, kart racing and traditional woodworking. I'm a carpenter by trade and and own just about every portable power tool ever invented plus a few stationary tools. So I decided quite a while back that I needed to learn how it was done before power tools. And I was shocked to find that the work wasn't a whole lot harder. Many projects are easier with hand tools. It is a very rewarding feeling to make a project using no power tools of any kind. This led me to start using hand saws, chisels and hand planes more often in my daily work. My son started racing karts on dirt ovals when he was 8 and is now 19. We have had a lot of fun over the years hanging out together at the tracks. He's off at collage now so that hobby is on hold.

I think an appropriate paint booth is the only option.

As others have said it needs mixed more. If you use the brush that you are going to apply the paint with then make sure the paint that is in the bristles is mixed well too. same goes for mixing colors to air brush. mix it with a brush to get the paint that clings to the jar mixed in with the rest. The thicker the paint was before thinning the more important this step is.

Listen to Ward Burton and Jeff Burton, they sound nothing alike and they are brothers.

I enjoy rebuilding kits that I have built. After a while of looking at them on the shelf I start getting ideas of what I would do differently. If it's a subject that I really like and the kit is easy to find I usually just get a new kit and do it the new way, but if it's a really hard to find or expensive kit and/or not really a subject that is one that I love then I will take it down off the shelf and start tearing into it. I also have builds from my younger days that don't have any paint on the body. I never glue interior tubs to chassis plates or bodies to chassis plates or engine/tranny to chassis and if the windows stay in place without glue then I never used to glue them either. So most times it doesn't take much work to prep the body for paint. Right now I'm working on an AMT 66 Fairlane 427. I was able to remove all chrome trim with success. Then while looking for the missing tail light bezels I came across a new chrome sprue for the kit. I used to buy every version of this body style, fairlanes, galaxies, comets etc. Now I just have to dig in the spares boxes to see if I can come up with a side window. This sat in bare plastic for 20 years or more.

I was surprised to see it on the shelf myself! It was the only one and I had to have it. The decals are the only thing different from past reissues. Nice clean molding just like all issues I've had of this kit.The dash still has the gauges molded in but the kit has white face and black face gauge decals. I think the decals are a great upgrade to the kit.

My wife can't understand people with thick southern accents, I have to be the interpreter, I think it's hilarious but the person speaking rarely does. I will say though I was getting gas in Virginia once and the female attendant was trying to tell the guy at the next pump over something through the intercom and he and I couldn't understand a word she said and he had Virginia plates. It sounded more like she was from way up in the West Virginia hills and was eating laughy taffy while talking. Pittsburgh Pa and the area surrounding it have their own accent. It comes from the people and cultural background that make up the community. Pittsburghese, yinzers etc.

I couldn't send him a message from my lap top.

But that doesn't really work because in that scenario there are still multiples of the subject in 1/25 and Monogram wasn't the first to kit every subject.And if you are copying a kit then the original scale doesn't matter. Not in the old days and not now. In the old days a person hand made the molds from a pattern and could scale up or down. I'm sure there was some copying going on but I have a feeling that the copied versions had very bad fine detail. Reason being that the finest of details were originally created in a much larger scale then scaled down with a pantograph. A lot of detail would be lost trying to copy a 1/25 styrene kit with a pantograph.

That wouldn't work. It would only make a fat version in the same scale. For instance it would not change wheel base. All growth in this are between the trailing edge of the front wheel well and leading edge of the rear wheel well would occur inside of the wheel openings causing them to get smaller. But center to center of wheel wells wouldn't change. You can't just think in terms of over all width and length. You have to remember to increase size proportionally in all areas, horizontally between body lines and each individual body panel needs re sized. Take for instance a front fender, it would need to be increased in length in three areas minimum, in front of the wheel well, behind the wheel well and in the center of the wheel well, afterwards the wheel opening would need re shaped. then it would need to be made taller in at least two places, in the middle of the wheel well and above the wheel well, if there are multiple horizontal body lines then it has to be increased in height between each. Afterwards the outside needs re shaped. Then the top surface of the fender needs widened. Very time consuming.