Plowboy Posted December 11, 2022 Posted December 11, 2022 Some years ago, I learned that using primer that isn't formulated for styrene is like banging your head against a wall. It feels so much better when you quit! I'll still use Dupli Color or Model Master paint occasionally. But, I always use Tamiya primer. It's miles better than than any of the primers I used before! To me, the little extra cost is worth every penny and then some.
StevenGuthmiller Posted December 12, 2022 Posted December 12, 2022 5 hours ago, Plowboy said: Some years ago, I learned that using primer that isn't formulated for styrene is like banging your head against a wall. It feels so much better when you quit! I'll still use Dupli Color or Model Master paint occasionally. But, I always use Tamiya primer. It's miles better than than any of the primers I used before! To me, the little extra cost is worth every penny and then some. For me, it's more a matter of selecting a good primer that does what you expect of it. A primer that's not necessarily formulated for styrene is fine, if you know that going in, and you know how to deal with it. The most frequent problem that I see is people running down to the hardware store and grabbing a random can of "something", (half of the time there's no indication of what's in the can, other than "primer") and then wondering why they're having problems with it. The same thing applies for paint and clear. Find something,.......anything, that works for you, (preferably something that doesn't say "Chuck's universal, one coat, primer, paint and clear coat" on the can) and stick with it! In the end, you're likely always going to be better off with something that you don't find in the bargain bin. Steve 1
bluestringer Posted December 14, 2022 Posted December 14, 2022 On 12/11/2022 at 2:03 PM, Keef said: I use this exclusively and it gives a perfect finish to me. I tried this and it went on too thick and runny. The rustoleum 2x I was using beat it hands down.
StevenGuthmiller Posted December 14, 2022 Posted December 14, 2022 1 hour ago, bluestringer said: I tried this and it went on too thick and runny. The rustoleum 2x I was using beat it hands down. You do have to be careful about using a “primer/filler” on models. It’s designed to fill in scratches and imperfections, which could also fill in detail. Steve 1
RSchnell Posted December 15, 2022 Posted December 15, 2022 I'm not a fan of Krylon or Rust-Oleum for models, stuff is too thick IMO. I used to use Dupli-color primer 80%, Tamiya for the other 20%. My local auto paint jobber gave me a can of this to try. So far I like it better than Dupli-color. Sands better than Tamiya and covers better than Dupli-color. I'll likely go back and pick up a can of black & white.
LL3 Model Worx Posted December 15, 2022 Posted December 15, 2022 Folks it's probably been mentioned a billion times before... but here goes. The majority of spray paint found outside of an auto parts store is enamel based... rustoleum, Krylon etc...its cheaper to produce and comply with regulations than lacquers or urethanes. however with any oil paint the solvent used can vary wildly. It could be as simple and natural as linseed oil, mineral spirits or as harsh as acetone, lacquer thinner etc... Putting a hotter solvent paint over a colder solvent paint or primer will usually result in a bad time. You CAN spray lacquers over enamels and vice versa but it can be tricky and you have to know your products. And make sure things are cured and coats are light. Most hardware store paints have fairly hot solvents to speed dry time and help etch/adhere to various materials. These days I personally use duplicolor for rattle can primer on non body parts... and then I'll use automotive 1k lacquer primer for body's if I'm not shooting enamel. Buying a gallon of automotive 1k primer for $50-70 and then straining and thinning it with "cheap" Klean strip lacquer thinner produces a great spraying/covering/sanding primer and in an amount that most would have for the rest of their life. We are talking more than 2 gallons sprayable.. Tamiya acrylics are also alcohol based and alcohol will activate/strip enamel.
bobthehobbyguy Posted December 15, 2022 Posted December 15, 2022 If you do Insist on using non model paint at least stick with a single brand and type. You will have fewer problems. Ala carte paint selection is courting disaster. And above all if your using Tamiya stick stay with it for all coats including clear.
Plowboy Posted December 16, 2022 Posted December 16, 2022 1 hour ago, bobthehobbyguy said: And above all if your using Tamiya stick stay with it for all coats including clear. I've used Dupli Color and Model Master paint over Tamiya primer as well as covered them with TS-13 clear with no problems.
oldcarfan Posted December 18, 2022 Posted December 18, 2022 On 1/26/2019 at 11:20 AM, Snake45 said: I LOVE the cheap Walmart primers, when I can find them. I've checked all the Walmart's in the area and they don't have any of the cheap Walmart branded paints on the shelf. They still have a place for them, but no paints. The only thing they seem to have plenty of is Rustoleum stuff.
oldcarfan Posted December 18, 2022 Posted December 18, 2022 On 1/26/2019 at 11:28 AM, MrObsessive said: Plastikote Gray T-35. I've been using it for years, covers well and dries fast. I'd forgotten that paint! When I can find it I use it interchangeably with Duplicolor. 1
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