Restoring windshields

[69NovaYenko]

Attempting to resurrect a Jo-han glue bomb that i acquired a number of years ago. I have received my Modelhaus replacement parts as well as sourced other needed parts from various donor kits. I have planed on sourcing the glass from a donor kit however, I would like to resurrect the glass from original kit because it a better fit.

Do you good folks know of any methods to clean faint to light glue smears/fingerprints form glass.  I was wondering is it possible to polish it out with something like "Bar Keepers Friend" or some other type of compound?

Any advise or tips appropriated...thanks in advance..... :-)

Edited March 31, 2019 by 69NovaYenko

[MrObsessive]

Depending how deep the scratches are, I've used polishing cloths (3600-12,000 grit) on clear plastic followed up with Meguiar's Car Cleaner wax and a chamois cloth. Takes a while, but it can be done. Some have put the finishing touches on getting the windshield to hide scratches by dipping it in Future Floor Wax (clear acrylic). I can say this works as I got a scratch on the rear window of a model I was building in its lower corner.

I brushed some Future on it and the scratch disappeared.

Not sure about the Bar Keeper's Friend-----you have to be careful that there aren't solvents in that which can make things worse.

Hope this helps!

[TarheelRick]

I have not tried polishing out "glass' yet but I would suggest great care in handling the pieces while polishing.  They are a bit more brittle than the styrene bodies and can snap more quickly.

[MrObsessive]

22 minutes ago, TarheelRick said:

I have not tried polishing out "glass' yet but I would suggest great care in handling the pieces while polishing.  They are a bit more brittle than the styrene bodies and can snap more quickly.

Yes, it wouldn't hurt to have something backing the glass while you're polishing it up. I used a balsa wood block shape on the inside of the glass to keep it from flexing while working with it.

Edited March 31, 2019 by MrObsessive

[Belugawrx]

 

[Daddy Mack]

I've restored some clear styrene lids for vintage Gillette barn door razors with a 3" cotton buffing wheel in a low rpm electric drill motor and white polishing rouge. The white rouge is the softest, least aggressive rouge for finish polishing of metals. I've gotten some truly amazing results. Didn't have to Future them, wax them, or anything else besides washing them with soap and water when done. Let the buffer do it's job without pressing on the workpiece.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-6-Pc-3-Full-Sewn-Polishing-Buffing-Wheels-with-1-4-Arbor-1-Metal-Mandrel/333135306411

Edited March 31, 2019 by Daddy Mack

[StevenGuthmiller]

I polish old kit glass all of the time.

When you deal with as much vintage plastic as I do, it's a must.

I just polish it as I would any paint job.

Micro-Mesh pads and Novus polish with a little bit of Turtle Wax scratch and swirl remover at the end.

 

 

Steve

[69NovaYenko]

Thanks for all the tips and tricks! :-)

[Tankman]

Try some novis #2 with a q tip very lightly at first and see what happens.

[57olds88]

I use 1000 grit sandpaper and warm water, and when done I dip mine in pledge then cover it but leave it propped up just a bit for air flow so no dust gets on it. Been doing it like that for years and never had any problems.

[Slotto]

I stuck a glue covered thumb in the center of a piece of glass once. I grabbed some tooth paste and went after it. No more thumbs print.

[Bucky]

I recently repaired a window unit from an old built-up that had yellowed. I wet sanded the piece, using the Micro Mesh sanding cloths, the same as I would have for a paint job. It came out good, and I could see through it, again.