69 shelby convertible

[videocast36]

I thought I would share the build of this car as I go along, just for practice if nothing else. there is nothing special and I believe I will build this box stock as my skills are limited. I just enjoy it like some people enjoy puzzles.I welcome any and all comments and or suggestions of course. 

I sanded a section of the body that had a mold line, and painted it silver to see any other defects. unfortunately my sanding wasn't enough and the mold line came through. so I had to re sand the area and I will repaint tomorrow.

[StevenGuthmiller]

Looking good so far.

 

My only suggestion would be to find a better silver paint.

The heavy and large metallic particles in the paint you have started with is way over the top.

 

 

Steve

[LL3 Model Worx]

Lookin like you are having fun so far... I'll stay tuned!

You wouldn't happen to be Randy Hanson the guitar player would you?

That would be too awsome!

[LL3 Model Worx]

8 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

Looking good so far.

 

My only suggestion would be to find a better silver paint.

The heavy and large metallic particles in the paint you have started with is way over the top.

 

 

Steve

Now Steve, you mean to tell me you can't appreciate a nice Ranger bass boat? Lol... maybe that's what he's goin for? 

If he IS Randy Hanson the guitarist, I could totally see this being "over the top" as the intent!

[MrObsessive]

For mold lines, I like to first sand them away, then put some liquid glue over the part that was sanded. The liquid glue will cause the sanded area to "ghost" and then after drying, I re-sand that area again getting rid of the plastic's "memory".

Once painted that shouldn't reappear unless you're using a very hot automotive paint in which I'd strongly suggest using some kind of barrier coat in that instance.

As far as the silver paint, you could try using perhaps Testors plain silver 'chrome' spray out of the can. Very fine pigments and it being a model paint would be very mild on the plastic.

Hope this helps!

[videocast36]

9 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

Looking good so far.

 

My only suggestion would be to find a better silver paint.

The heavy and large metallic particles in the paint you have started with is way over the top.

 

 

Steve

Thanks Steve, but the silver is going to be covered with a regular paint color. I was told by a fellow local modeler that a silver coat will show all the defects to be fixed before painting the selected body color. this silver is rustoleum 2X which is cheap, down,and dirty.. I have used it before and it hasn't reacted with my regular air brush paints.

[videocast36]

9 hours ago, LL3 Model Worx said:

Lookin like you are having fun so far... I'll stay tuned!

You wouldn't happen to be Randy Hanson the guitar player would you?

That would be too awsome!

I wish. I could play a little Hendrix in my den, but I did play drums for many years locally a long time ago. not famous. lol...

[videocast36]

7 hours ago, MrObsessive said:

For mold lines, I like to first sand them away, then put some liquid glue over the part that was sanded. The liquid glue will cause the sanded area to "ghost" and then after drying, I re-sand that area again getting rid of the plastic's "memory".

Once painted that shouldn't reappear unless you're using a very hot automotive paint in which I'd strongly suggest using some kind of barrier coat in that instance.

As far as the silver paint, you could try using perhaps Testors plain silver 'chrome' spray out of the can. Very fine pigments and it being a model paint would be very mild on the plastic.

Hope this helps!

I will definitely give your method a try. sounds very effective. cant thank you and all the others for your help and experience. I never realized model car building could be such an amazing challenge.

[StevenGuthmiller]

1 hour ago, videocast36 said:

Thanks Steve, but the silver is going to be covered with a regular paint color. I was told by a fellow local modeler that a silver coat will show all the defects to be fixed before painting the selected body color. this silver is rustoleum 2X which is cheap, down,and dirty.. I have used it before and it hasn't reacted with my regular air brush paints.

Terrific!

I guess that I misunderstood your original post and was thinking that you were planning on the same color to finish.

I do the same thing and will usually use a Duplicolor rattle can base coat, but for different reasons.

I've found that a couple of light coats of a Duplicolor lacquer in a like color to the finish coat, will not only help create an impervious base for heavier finish coats of Scale Finishes or MCW paints, it will also save a great deal on those precious colors.

 

 

 

 

Steve

 

[videocast36]

engine complete. on to the easy stuff..right!

[videocast36]

10 hours ago, MrObsessive said:

For mold lines, I like to first sand them away, then put some liquid glue over the part that was sanded. The liquid glue will cause the sanded area to "ghost" and then after drying, I re-sand that area again getting rid of the plastic's "memory".

Once painted that shouldn't reappear unless you're using a very hot automotive paint in which I'd strongly suggest using some kind of barrier coat in that instance.

As far as the silver paint, you could try using perhaps Testors plain silver 'chrome' spray out of the can. Very fine pigments and it being a model paint would be very mild on the plastic.

Hope this helps!

I followed your instructions exactly, and it absolutely worked! no more mold lines. thank you very much!!

 

[Superbird McMonte]

19 hours ago, MrObsessive said:

For mold lines, I like to first sand them away, then put some liquid glue over the part that was sanded. The liquid glue will cause the sanded area to "ghost" and then after drying, I re-sand that area again getting rid of the plastic's "memory".

Once painted that shouldn't reappear unless you're using a very hot automotive paint in which I'd strongly suggest using some kind of barrier coat in that instance.

As far as the silver paint, you could try using perhaps Testors plain silver 'chrome' spray out of the can. Very fine pigments and it being a model paint would be very mild on the plastic.

Hope this helps!

I am definitely going to have to give this method a try! And coming from you Bill, I know it’s gonna work!

[MrObsessive]

15 hours ago, videocast36 said:

I followed your instructions exactly, and it absolutely worked! no more mold lines. thank you very much!!

 

 

6 hours ago, Superbird McMonte said:

I am definitely going to have to give this method a try! And coming from you Bill, I know it’s gonna work!

Thank you both for the compliment! I learnt this method from Ted "Chopper" Lear YEARS ago and it always came in handy. If there's anyone out there that has a HUGE wealth of knowledge when it comes to bodywork........it's Ted!

[videocast36]

well, here is the partially finished interior. Im still having a problem with sloppiness. it looks good with the naked eye, but with pictures blown up like this, it looks too sloppy to me. I will keep on trying to figure out how to do this better..

[LL3 Model Worx]

16 hours ago, videocast36 said:

well, here is the partially finished interior. Im still having a problem with sloppiness. it looks good with the naked eye, but with pictures blown up like this, it looks too sloppy to me. I will keep on trying to figure out how to do this better..

Doesn't look too bad... I've personally done ALOT worse at one point.

If you are spraying paint either can or airbrush..  tape off what you can. And that will help with cleanliness.

If you are hand brushing, thin the paint well and paint in multiple light coats, and use the appropriate sized brush for the part you are working...

Alot of times people think they need a real small brush, and that's not the case at all, large brushes usually work better because they hold more paint so they don't dry out as quickly and they tend to flow better because the amount of bristles and paint. So the finish result is usually smoother.

Then, practice, practice,practice.

I painted figures for a long time and that helped my brush skills quite alot. 

[videocast36]

9 hours ago, LL3 Model Worx said:

Doesn't look too bad... I've personally done ALOT worse at one point.

If you are spraying paint either can or airbrush..  tape off what you can. And that will help with cleanliness.

If you are hand brushing, thin the paint well and paint in multiple light coats, and use the appropriate sized brush for the part you are working...

Alot of times people think they need a real small brush, and that's not the case at all, large brushes usually work better because they hold more paint so they don't dry out as quickly and they tend to flow better because the amount of bristles and paint. So the finish result is usually smoother.

Then, practice, practice,practice.

I painted figures for a long time and that helped my brush skills quite alot. 

Thanks Leroy. I did thin the paint like you suggested and sure enough it improved greatly. good advice... there sure is a lot to learn to make a show level model ...

[LL3 Model Worx]

17 minutes ago, videocast36 said:

Thanks Leroy. I did thin the paint like you suggested and sure enough it improved greatly. good advice... there sure is a lot to learn to make a show level model ...

Oh yea, it's not easy by any means... 

But, I'm glad thinning the paint worked out well for you. It truly makes a massive difference in the quality of paint application either sprayed or brushed.

Another rule to remember is always paint light to dark... with your colors. Paint your light colors before your darks as the dark colors cover the light colors more easily and in less coats, making for neater/thinner coats and thus more definition and sharpness.

Another thing I learned is, "it's easier to paint a broad straight line, than a narrow one"... so like say on door panel trim (if you aren't foiling) it's easier to paint the trim first where you can afford to be "sloppy" and then come back and do the surrounding area in your base color...

Lots of ins and outs of brush painting, that you will learn by trial and error.

Keep pushing and you can achieve great results, just keep at it!

 

[videocast36]

19 hours ago, LL3 Model Worx said:

Oh yea, it's not easy by any means... 

But, I'm glad thinning the paint worked out well for you. It truly makes a massive difference in the quality of paint application either sprayed or brushed.

Another rule to remember is always paint light to dark... with your colors. Paint your light colors before your darks as the dark colors cover the light colors more easily and in less coats, making for neater/thinner coats and thus more definition and sharpness.

Another thing I learned is, "it's easier to paint a broad straight line, than a narrow one"... so like say on door panel trim (if you aren't foiling) it's easier to paint the trim first where you can afford to be "sloppy" and then come back and do the surrounding area in your base color...

Lots of ins and outs of brush painting, that you will learn by trial and error.

Keep pushing and you can achieve great results, just keep at it!

 

great tips. thanks for taking time to put them down for me. I will print out this page so I have instant reference to them. so now if It comes out sloppy, Im going to blame you. hahaha...take care my friend.

[LL3 Model Worx]

2 hours ago, videocast36 said:

great tips. thanks for taking time to put them down for me. I will print out this page so I have instant reference to them. so now if It comes out sloppy, Im going to blame you. hahaha...take care my friend.

You are welcome... I hope they help out.

You can absolutely blame me, I'm used to it (married).

[videocast36]

this one is going slowly due to weather problems and health problems. but I plod on!!  next step is clear coating the body, then on to final assy. 

[vamach1]

The color is really cool.   When I get around to building one I may go with gulfstream aqua or silver jade.

[StevenGuthmiller]

That's a great color......and a smooth execution!!

 

 

 

Steve

[videocast36]

12 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

That's a great color......and a smooth execution!!

 

 

 

Steve

appreciate that Steve..   ?

 

[gman]

5 hours ago, videocast36 said:

this one is going slowly due to weather problems and health problems. but I plod on!!  next step is clear coating the body, then on to final assy. 

That turned out really nicely. Looking good, staying tuned for more pictures once the clear is applied.