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Posted

Absolutely! I do it all the time. Only problem is with tube glue, especially older tube glue, which can penetrate and frost the plastic to a depth that can't be polished out. 

Posted (edited)

Welcome to the board George!

Is this glue on an old kit you are restoring or did you just get glue on your windshield?

If you are using glue today that damages windshields, don't!  There are better glues on the market specifically for this task that won't cause any damage!

image.thumb.png.7c57f95fa61ac4ef6cceb0d7310baae2.png

Microscale's Micro Kristal Klear is available in hobby shops and on-line

image.png.a4814ee1b0477644a497c759ceda5dd8.png

Here's Evergreen Canopy Glue -- Hobby Lobby stocks this

image.thumb.png.89519560b8b3ff986a9dcc0a7b514f71.png

I also use this tape to put in glass. It's clear and very strong, it was made for the scrap booking hobby.  I bought this at Michaels.  Hobby Lobby probably has it too.

I will use a combo of the tape and glue together.  Sometimes I will use the tape across the top and glue the remaining three edges.

If you are working with old glass that has glue on it, Snake has the right idea about polishing it out. It does take patience though and doesn't work 100% of the time either.

Your other option would be to use the damaged glass as a template to cut new clear plastic.  Evergreen sells clear plastic sheets and a lot of guys use clear plastic from packaging or soda bottles.  Since the glass from a sheet won't have the right curve, the tape above will help you in getting it to conform.

Otherwise some people will vacuum form new glass from clear sheet, again using the old damaged glass to form against.

 

Edited by Tom Geiger
Posted

To echo what Tom and Snake have said..........if there's a bit too much glue, there's not much you can do to salvage it. Especially the old tube glues are notorious for really digging into clear plastic and ruining it forever.

Tom mentioned vacuforming or using clear stencil sheet to make your glass. I've done both at times depending on the type of windshield (flat or wraparound) and while it requires a bit more work, you can always make duplicate copies in case the first one gets messed up due to paint, or it didn't come out quite the way you want it.

Posted

This is an old kit, trying to rebuild.  Thanks for the tips on alternate glue solutions.  I'll try polishing, then look to replace it if that doesn't work.  Are there good sources for replacement kit windshields?

Posted
10 minutes ago, coupe guy said:

This is an old kit, trying to rebuild.    Are there good sources for replacement kit windshields?

Two sources...

This board,  put your need in the "Wanted" section.  Someone may be able to send you one.

eBay.. there are sellers who break down kits and sell the parts.

Posted
On 12/13/2019 at 8:09 AM, coupe guy said:

Is there any way to polish out a glue smear on a windshield?

Even if the glue damage is fairly deep, with effort and time, it's often possible to save clear parts.

Start with 400 (or so) grit sandpaper, on a block (so you don't cause distortion), wet. Sand the pitting or etching all the way out.

Then go to progressively finer grits, wet, until you're up to 2000 or 3000.

Careful polishing with plastic polish or a very fine rubbing compound will get you the rest of the way.

Done correctly, you will have a part that looks new again, with no scratches or fogging.

Posted
1 hour ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

Even if the glue damage is fairly deep, with effort and time, it's often possible to save clear parts.

Start with 400 (or so) grit sandpaper, on a block (so you don't cause distortion), wet. Sand the pitting or etching all the way out.

Then go to progressively finer grits, wet, until you're up to 2000 or 3000.

Careful polishing with plastic polish or a very fine rubbing compound will get you the rest of the way.

Done correctly, you will have a part that looks new again, with no scratches or fogging.

What he said. 

It might be helpful if you'd tell us what car the windshield is for, and--even better--post a pic or two of the exact damage. We might be able to tell you whether or not it can be fixed, and/or suggest alternatives. 

Posted
On 12/13/2019 at 4:48 PM, LL3 Model Worx said:

If it's just fog from superglue... baby oil will take the fog away.

Never heard of this trick, does anyone else use it?

Posted
1 hour ago, dublin boy said:

Never heard of this trick, does anyone else use it?

No, I just use rubbing alcohol to take off superglue fog. 

Posted
1 hour ago, Snake45 said:

No, I just use rubbing alcohol to take off superglue fog. 

Never tried that... I'll give that a shot instead of the baby oil next time.

Oil definitely works though... I just don't like keeping oil near where potential painting may be required.... could become a disaster real quick.

I remember when my dad put a premises ban on armor all and the likes at the body shop.

If he caught you with that stuff even in the parking lot, you would be docked $100 without question lol!!

 

 

Posted

Armor All used on vinyl covered front bench seats can cause problems when navigating a curve at speeds over 35 mph. Don't ask how I know that. :D

Posted
4 hours ago, SfanGoch said:

Armor All used on vinyl covered front bench seats can cause problems when navigating a curve at speeds over 35 mph. Don't ask how I know that. :D

That's why you just do the passenger and middle area... then get your lady in there and swing a hard right...

 

 

Posted
33 minutes ago, LL3 Model Worx said:

That's why you just do the passenger and middle area... then get your lady in there and swing a hard right...

I never had to grease the seat to get some togetherness.

Posted
3 minutes ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

I never had to grease the seat to get some togetherness.

Some of us are not so fortunate...

I myself was very lucky... happily married now... I did say lucky right?

Posted
13 hours ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

Even if the glue damage is fairly deep, with effort and time, it's often possible to save clear parts.

Start with 400 (or so) grit sandpaper, on a block (so you don't cause distortion), wet. Sand the pitting or etching all the way out.

Then go to progressively finer grits, wet, until you're up to 2000 or 3000.

Careful polishing with plastic polish or a very fine rubbing compound will get you the rest of the way.

Done correctly, you will have a part that looks new again, with no scratches or fogging.

In other words,  mail your windshield to Bill!   ?

Posted (edited)
13 hours ago, Tom Geiger said:

In other words,  mail your windshield to Bill!   ?

Be sure to include $200 and a self-addressed padded box too.

Edited by Ace-Garageguy

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