69 Mustang (Home Built Special) Drift Car

[Mattilacken]

Great update. nice to se the work process and its good inspiration and know how so to speak! 

[Lowlife ! !]

 

Great stuff Luke, interiors really coming along !

Thought you'd be using a twin turbo engine, but the stacks should look just as Cool sticking out !

And what are you using for the bolts holding the suspension etc together ? They look really effective !

[Cool Hand]

On 1/16/2020 at 6:06 PM, Mattilacken said:

Great update. nice to se the work process and its good inspiration and know how so to speak! 

Thanks for keeping up with the build and commenting Anton, appreciate it.

Always good to take lots of pics with this type of build as they can be used for future reference on similar types of heavily modified projects.

And sharing the process is a way of giving back, from all the techniques learned from others. And hope some can find it helpful.

On 1/17/2020 at 5:14 AM, Lowlife ! ! said:

 

Great stuff Luke, interiors really coming along !

Thought you'd be using a twin turbo engine, but the stacks should look just as Cool sticking out !

And what are you using for the bolts holding the suspension etc together ? They look really effective !

Thank you Martin, interior is going to be a challenge to get it all done, piece by piece.

No hair dryers for this build mate LOL!  Inspiration car provided an idea for the induction.

Its aluminium wire close to 1mm purchased from a craft store, beading wire. But you can get same thing at hardware store, tie wire or picture hanging wire.

And used some 1.2mm styrene rod for the pins through the shocks

Cut with side cutters and filed the ends.

 

Edited January 19, 2020 by Cool Hand

[Cool Hand]

Still working away on the interior piece by piece.

Removed more of rear side panels.

And removed the foot wells.

Used a small photo etch saw.

After they were removed, was able to make a start on the fire wall.
Removed the molded in engine bay and the fire wall was part of that. So had to make a new on from scratch.

Dont have a contour gauge, so had to make a cardboard template.

Taped some cardboard against the edge of the work board.

Placed the body against the edge over the cardboard and trace the lower section of the inner body.

This is the bottom part of the template.

Cut and fit up to the body.

Measure distance from template to under the cowl vent.

Trace the bottom half of the template and add measurement on top of that.

Use some solder to form the shape of the inner sides of the body.

And mark the lower edge of the rocker on the solder.

Transfer to the template.

That is the rough shape for the template. 

Further adjustments are needed by trimming each side until it fits neatly.

Transferred to 2mm styrene sheet, cut out and shape until fit up is neat.

More work to follow on the fire wall.

[Belugawrx]

Great techniques .. thanks for sharing..I will be saving this thread?

[Cool Hand]

No worries Bruce, glad you can find some of it useful.

 

[Cool Hand]

More work on the fire wall.

Measured from the cowl down to the top of what was the foot well.

Transferred the measurement onto the previously made template.

Will be using this brake booster, from a Revell 70 Buick GSX kit.

And double checked the fit to the template.

Cut that section of, as it will be the top half of the fire wall.

Got another measurement from the lower part of the frame to top of the floor.

This needed to be removed from the bottom of the lower half of the template, but went for 5mm instead of 7mm just incase. Because this piece is at an angle.

Placed the two halves in the body for a rough test. Lower piece just incase still wasnt enough.

Ended up with a 2mm gap, so had to adjust the template. Taped all 3 pieces back together. Added the 2mm a re cut the bottom.

Made a slight fold and test fit

Found the centre of the lower edge.

Measured a rough distance across the bell housing and gear box,went for 23mm.

Set the circle cutter and cut.

Test fit again.

Transfer to fire wall.

Make a back up template of the whole fire wall, incase things go wrong
 

Cut down the centre line, added another 2mm to the bottom half piece to allow for the thickness of the 2mm styrene and the edge will need to be chamfered/angled.

Lower half before chamfering the edge.

Chamfered edge.

Check the angle of the chamfer.

Spot glue in position.

And chamfer top edge.

Spot glue top half in postion.

Test fit.

Fully glued the join.

Trans tunnel opening on template was a guide, so using sand drum removed a bit at a time and test until satisfied with the opening.

Cleaned up and test fit.

A bit more work on the fire wall to be done later but thats it for now, moving on the the back half of the interior and wheel tubs etc

[Cool Hand]

Started working on the back half, planning and making some templates.

Yellow masking tape over the layout, easy to see through and make templates.

Measured from the floor to the suspension plate.

Roughed out a design for a panel. And transferred to card.

Cut out and test fitting.

Another card template, for centre panel

Just wanted to show where things are at the moment.

[Vince66]

Wow totally unreal craftsmanship. 

[Cool Hand]

Thanks Vince,.

Not as highly skilled as others who inspire. So one must make do with the skills they have.

[Cool Hand]

Decided to have a go and get the wheel tubs done, then build all the panels around them.

Learnt from Francis Laflamme aka AmericanMuscleFan's build topic that a socket is a good way of forming the tubs,

Found one thats a couple mm bigger than the wheels.

Set the compass to the width of the socket.

And transferred to some .5mm styrene sheet.

Wrapped some tape around the socket to work out a length, which is how much of the tub that wraps around the wheel.

Transfer that to the styrene.

After cutting, wrap the piece around the socket. Place some cable ties or rubber bands around to secure it. Dont over tighten needs to be removable.

Using some form of heat, warm up the socket and styrene.

After heating, place under cold water and cool it down.

Remove the ties and repeat.

First attempt at this technique, over heated the styrene. So they deformed and turned out rough. But thats fine, half will be cut of and the rest can be sanded smooth

To make the blanks and enclose one end, measure the diameter of the socket. (27mm)

These will be made from 1.5mm styrene.

Set the compass to 13.5mm.

Rule a line on the sheet.

Mark two blanks.

Cut out and shape.

Used a temporary set up to glue pieces together.

Clamped the tub and positioned the blank.

Super glue the join where the pieces meet. Allow to dry or use accelerator.

Use another clamp to help hold the piece. Push the tub in to meet the blank and glue where they join.

Repeat on the other side.

Flip over and fully glue the join.

Cleaned up glue joins with file and sanding stick, also sanded the deformed areas tidying it up a bit.

Find the compass centre and drill a pilot hole.

Drill out pilot hole 2mm bigger than rear axle diameter.

Thats the basic wheel tub, next will be shaping them to fit in the body. 

Also whilst sussing out a few things, marked in the position of the trans tunnel.

.

Edited January 19, 2020 by Cool Hand

[stitchdup]

wow inspirational work

[OldNYJim]

I like that technique for making the tubs!  Clever!

[Cool Hand]

On 1/19/2020 at 9:00 PM, stitchdup said:

wow inspirational work

Thanks  Leslie, appreciate you following  the build.

On 1/19/2020 at 11:31 PM, CabDriver said:

I like that technique for making the tubs!  Clever!

Thanks Jim, the idea for the socket technique was inspired by Laflamme aka AmericanMuscleFan. 

[Cool Hand]

So had a day of thinking 

Used some acetate cut to same size as wheel tub template and used that to get the first part of a shape template.

Placed against the frame in the wheel arch. And roughly marked the shape

Cut out the acetate and transferred to cardboard and trimmed small amounts at a time until it was a neat fit.

Transferred that to the wheel tub, but allowed a couple mm extra and started shaping.

Decided to split the tub from the blank, so that the tub would line up with the wheel arch.

Spot glued at the wheel arch

Needed to fill in the gap.

Slid some paper behind and traced out the shape and transferred to styrene.

Removed and filled the joins with with super glue.

Not mentioned earlier in this task, the centre hole was enlarge to help get the position of the tub in the right place.

Placed back in the body and traced the frame where possible.

Next update, final shaping up to the frame then fitting and attaching the tubs to the floor plate.

[KWT]

This is awesome. This has become one of my favorite threads on the forum. Can't wait to see more.

[Cool Hand]

Thanks Jeremy, glad to know you are taking interest in the build.

[Cool Hand]

Rough tracing of the frame where it was possible.

Ruled in cleaner lines to remove material with small sanding drum and finished up with file and sanding stick.

Spot glued back on the frame.

Test fit back in the body.

Removed from body.
Mesured gap and cut some 1.5m to suit.

Attached piece to tub.

Template was made to produce another plate from .5mm to attach to the back of the tubs.

Cut over size at back edge to help with positioning when gluing then trimmed after.

Separate interior from the frame.

Finalized the shaping around the frame and the tubs, test fitted multiple times through out this process

Next up interior panels.

Edited January 23, 2020 by Cool Hand

[bisc63]

Just beautiful craftsmanship; top notch work!

[ciales22]

Amazingly beautiful and well thought out work!

[Cool Hand]

22 hours ago, bisc63 said:

Just beautiful craftsmanship; top notch work!

Thanks for following along Rusty

11 hours ago, ciales22 said:

Amazingly beautiful and well thought out work!

Thank you Henry, trying to think things through and plan ahead. As shown it wont always work out that way though.

[Cool Hand]

Using some cardboard again to make template's.

Transferred templates to .5mm styrene sheet.

Glued some 2x2mm to help locate interior sides after removing them from the floor plate.

Broke all the spot glued places and separated from the floor plate. Decided to smooth the door detail and replace with .010 styrene sheet.

Filed smooth and created a reveal for .010 door card.

Tape template.

Transferred to the sheet.

Spot glued the interior back together.
Another template.

Test fit of the panels.

Next update, trans tunnel and a few more small panels.

[Belugawrx]

Coming along Luke ?

So the only kit parts you are using so far, are the dash and the top of the interior tub rails,....? ?  oh, and some engine....

Great scratching ! 

Cheers

 

Edited January 24, 2020 by Belugawrx

[Cool Hand]

Thanks for following along Bruce.

Yeah thats about right, not many kits parts will be used. 

Somewhat like fully gutting a factory stock and building it back up to be light weight and safe to hit the track and drift.

[Cool Hand]

After finalizing some of the work in the interior, was able to finish of the basic overall shape of the fire wall.

Needed to fill in the bottom sides with a small panel

As per usual using tape for a quick template.

Transferred to 1mm styrene sheet.

Cut, shaped, glued and smoothed.

Needed to get the tail shaft sorted before doing the trans tunnel.

It had to be shortened. Found some brass tube around the same size

Cut the uni's off. But left some of the shaft material

Put them in the drill press chuck and filed down to suit the i.d of the brass tube and cut of the excess

Put the engine in place, blu-tak'd the uni's and set the compass to get the length.

Cut the tube and test fit

 

Trans tunnel up next.

Edited January 24, 2020 by Cool Hand