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Posted

I  have a pole lamp & have been using a cfl bulb in it. I need to replace it  & I'm not sure whether to get another cfl or go for an led or corn lights. What's the best one for modeling?

Posted
23 minutes ago, Dave Ambrose said:

The LED lights are hard to beat. They're just about as bright as any CFL you're likely to get, use less energy, and last a very long time. 

Yup. I've been replacing my compact fluorescents as they burn out with LEDs.

For maximum light, be sure to buy the "100 watt equivalent" LED bulbs. Prices have come WAY down in recent years.

They are available in warm white and "daylight", which to me can be a little tiring, as the light is somewhat cold and bluish. I find one of each over the bench makes a nice effect.

The 100 watt "equivalent" bulbs produce as much light as 100 watt incandescents, but only use something like 15 watts. They are vastly more efficient because almost all the electricity they consume makes light, rather than waste heat.

This results in reduced air-conditioning cost in summer, too.

 

Posted (edited)

Couple of things to consider when buying light bulbs nowadays:  Color temperature and Color Rendering Index (CRI).  These specs are often mentioned on the product boxes.

If you liked the color temperature of your CFL, then you can select the LED bulb which has a similar color temperature.  CFL's color temperatures were usually 2600-2800K (warm-white light, similar to the incandescent bulbs), or 4000-5000K (cool white, or daylight).  Halogen lamps usually have color temperature of 3000K

The CRI determines how accurately the light from that bulb will render colors of the objects it illuminates. CFLs in general had a poor CRI.  Many LED bulbs also have poor CRI (70-85). I would recommend to try finding a bulb which has 91 or greater CRI.

Edited by peteski
Posted (edited)

I ended up getting a 150 watt, 2200 lumen,  5000k  LED bulb & what a difference compared to the cfl. It's like going from night to a sunny day. My old eyes can actually see so much better. It makes it a lot easier working on my models. I couldn't find a CRI anywhere on the box but I'm still happy with lighting it throws out. Thanks everybody for your help.

Edited by forthlin
Posted

When my florescent drop light died while working on my truck, I needed a quick replacement to get through the job. I had an old drop light that used incandescent bulbs so I grabbed it and screwed in a 100 watt LED. It worked so well that it is now my go-to work light. Lots of light, no heat, and a tough skin. Drops don't seem to bother it, either.

Posted

When my florescent drop light died while working on my truck, I needed a quick replacement to get through the job. I had an old drop light that used incandescent bulbs so I grabbed it and screwed in a 100 watt LED. It worked so well that it is now my go-to work light. Lots of light, no heat, and a tough skin. Drops don't seem to bother it, either.

Posted

Wife went to Costco to buy bulbs. Told her 65 watt LED flood and she brings home these.  User guide has 49 steps detailing use of functions. Over my head.

81-pnQx7MRL._AC_SL1500_.jpg

Posted

I've got a smart bulb now. Love it. Used it to replace a timer on a lamp in a difficult to reach place. I've got it scheduled to turn on and off at a certain time, and I can turn it off from my cell phone whenever I wish so I can watch movies without reflections.

If you had told me even three months ago that I would ever connect a light bulb to a network, I'd have laughed in your face. Turned out to be a pretty good idea.

Posted
On ‎2‎/‎23‎/‎2020 at 11:29 PM, Flat32 said:

Durn things require 2.4Ghz wifi and mine is 5Ghz.

For sure. I had to turn off my 5GHz network just to install it, then I could turn it back on.

Posted

My router is a dual band so supposedly I can create a separate 2.4Ghz network without disturbing the 5Ghz one. Easier said than done at my age.

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