NOBLNG Posted April 10, 2020 Author Posted April 10, 2020 (edited) On 4/10/2020 at 2:24 PM, RichCostello said: OK, I'd never heard that before. Google Jeep body designations and click on the quadratec site. You will get a list and description of them all. I would link if if knew how to on this iPad.? I figured it out?! https://www.quadratec.com/jeep_knowledgebase/article-73.htm Edited June 4, 2022 by NOBLNG
1930fordpickup Posted April 10, 2020 Posted April 10, 2020 I just did some checking here. CJ 45-86. YJ 86-95. TJ 96-06. JK 07-14. JL current. the end of the JK and the start of the JL is funny on Wiki not sure of the dates on those. Rich living here just north of the Plant that makes these I had no Idea of the models and year difference also until the last few years.
RichCostello Posted April 10, 2020 Posted April 10, 2020 I remember the older Jeeps being referred to as CJ-5, or CJ-7s(I had a couple of these). Since then, I don't recall hearing any Jeeps identified by these letter designations, but only as Wrangler or Rubicon, or whatever. So, now I know better.
goldfinger Posted April 11, 2020 Posted April 11, 2020 Great minds think alike! I've been tinkering with this idea for a while . We should compare results when we are done!
BuilderX Posted April 11, 2020 Posted April 11, 2020 (edited) "The suspension articulation is something that is just not attainable with leaf springs...not to mention a much smoother ride." Edited April 11, 2020 by BuilderX
BuilderX Posted April 11, 2020 Posted April 11, 2020 This is a great Idea, cant wait to see this one done! never thought of doing this. Great project will be watching.
NOBLNG Posted April 12, 2020 Author Posted April 12, 2020 (edited) I fabbed up a makeshift t/c adapter on the drill press out of evergreen and stole the 205 transfer case from the Moebius F-100 kit. I boxed the front section of the frame with 0.010 styrene, since it can now be seen with the hood open. I fiddled last night for quite a while trying to figure out how to hold the engine and trans in place while making some kind of mounts. I came up with this idea this morning when I realized the top of the intake manifold is pretty much level with the top of the fenders. ? I was worried for a bit about the starter being in the way of the front driveshaft, but it looks like there is plenty of clearance. Likewise, I should have lots of room for a radiator and cooling fan. I guess I would not have had to remove the skid plate since I don’t really need to move it forward, but it sure does make it easier to work on.? Edited April 12, 2020 by NOBLNG
NOBLNG Posted April 12, 2020 Author Posted April 12, 2020 (edited) On 4/11/2020 at 11:31 AM, goldfinger said: Great minds think alike! I've been tinkering with this idea for a while . We should compare results when we are done! Looks real nice...almost like mine!? I imagine you stretched the frame also? Do you have a build thread on it? Edited April 12, 2020 by NOBLNG
NOBLNG Posted April 13, 2020 Author Posted April 13, 2020 Well I got the engine mounted. I also built another crossmember under the t/c adapter. These mounts weren’t easy because the tabs on the engine are staggered front to rear and at different heights!? If I do another engine swap I will grind them off if they are not nice and put my own tabs on...or make a motor plate.
NOBLNG Posted April 15, 2020 Author Posted April 15, 2020 I added the lip up along the fenders for the hood to sit over and with a little trimming, managed to get the Commando inner fenders to fit. I didn’t like the rear driveline angle, so I cut and rotated the rear diff, and fabbed a new driveshaft. For a first attempt it came out looking better than I expected! That said, I may just re-do them, now that I have a better idea how.
dino246gt Posted April 16, 2020 Posted April 16, 2020 Great idea, and it's coming along nicely, at least 2 of them are, so far!
dino246gt Posted April 16, 2020 Posted April 16, 2020 (edited) Here's an article I did over a decade ago, for making driveshafts any length. Keep the plastic one together while thinning each end to slip into the tubing, this makes it easier to handle before you cut off the ends. I make it in 2 pieces of tubing so it's slightly adjustable in length, that way you can have the diff and transfer case or transmission both glued in place before glueing one end in, then stretching it to glue the other end. Edited April 16, 2020 by dino246gt
NOBLNG Posted April 16, 2020 Author Posted April 16, 2020 Thanks Dennis. I will look for some tubing for this trick. Drilling a hole straight down the solid styrene, even a little ways, is tough. I do need a double cardan joint at the top so I will check all my other 4x4 kits to see if any have one that looks better than my scratch job!?
Cpt Tuttle Posted April 17, 2020 Posted April 17, 2020 Fun little project. Seeing this makes me think that the current Wrangler is actually a little bit like a modern day Jeepster........
goldfinger Posted April 19, 2020 Posted April 19, 2020 On 4/12/2020 at 4:07 PM, NOBLNG said: Looks real nice...almost like mine!? I imagine you stretched the frame also? Do you have a build thread on it? No I have been lazy about posting my builds. I did stretch the frame. now i am fussing with the floorpan. I stop and start on this project , as i get frustrated!
NOBLNG Posted April 19, 2020 Author Posted April 19, 2020 1 hour ago, goldfinger said: No I have been lazy about posting my builds. I did stretch the frame. now i am fussing with the floorpan. I stop and start on this project , as i get frustrated! I know what you mean about the frustration! I have at least 3 builds going on at the same time so I can walk away when needed. this is my first and about the fourth attempt at a rear drive shaft. I am happy with the brass one. Thanks to Dennis for the idea!
NOBLNG Posted April 27, 2020 Author Posted April 27, 2020 I made a radiator mount on the backside of the grill from styrene stock. The Commando radiator was just a little too wide to fit so I made a custom “aluminum “ one using parts from a ‘57 Chevy and mounted it on pins. I added a pusher fan that I cast from resin and sanded down till all the slots were opened up. I also cut off the two Revell grill mounts and made one central one like the 1:1’s have.
NOBLNG Posted April 27, 2020 Author Posted April 27, 2020 8 hours ago, 1930fordpickup said: Looking good Greg 7 hours ago, 89AKurt said: I like the driveshaft, and radiator details. Thanks Guys. I am just trying to expand my skills a bit. This is my first real attempt at scratch building or kit-bashing. It won’t be any contest winner for sure, but I’m having fun with it.?
iamsuperdan Posted April 27, 2020 Posted April 27, 2020 On 4/10/2020 at 1:34 PM, 1930fordpickup said: the end of the JK and the start of the JL is funny on Wiki not sure of the dates on those. JK production and JL production overlapped for a year. In 2018, you could order both the new and the old body style. That could be why there's some funny info. Kind of like how for the 2019 and 2020 model years you can buy both the new and old body Ram 1500.
1930fordpickup Posted April 28, 2020 Posted April 28, 2020 (edited) 6 hours ago, iamsuperdan said: JK production and JL production overlapped for a year. In 2018, you could order both the new and the old body style. That could be why there's some funny info. Kind of like how for the 2019 and 2020 model years you can buy both the new and old body Ram 1500. Thanks for clearing that up Dan. Edited April 28, 2020 by 1930fordpickup missed a word
BuilderX Posted April 28, 2020 Posted April 28, 2020 This is looking good, I like how you fit up the engine, great work!
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