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Moving on to the tub I needed to cut off the front crash box to add details from TS upgrades. Filed away the front end till I got it where I wanted it. Also filed away the Tamiya mounts flush at the rear where the computers rest to replace them with upgraded mounts from TS. Also drilled holes on the tub at the appropriate places for the rear engine mounts and lower suspension mounts. I decided after careful thought that I would CF decal the whole tub in 1/24 scale #1024 from Scale Motorsport as I believe that was the correct color for the tub. For the rear of the tub I used a more copper looking CF decal also 1/24 scale. 

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I forgot to mention that I flattened the whole area where the shocks mount smooth removing the stems and texture as that area from the real car was smooth. I also sanded the sides of the tub smooth and that’s how the real car was. Hercules used a male molding technique to do their carbon fiber tubs. Some places were smooth other areas it had texture. 

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Continued over the weekend working on the front bulkhead of the tub by adding the TS upgrades which includes the steering rack which was painted in the same color as the gearbox as it’s magnesium. The master cylinders are a big improvement to Tamiya’s. I added banjo fittings for the brake lines and clutch lines to the master cylinders. Also added hardware from some company can’t recall the manufacturer but it’s studs with nuts and I used those for the mounting of the master cylinders to the bulkhead. Also added hardware to the resoivers. Pretty nice upgrades and it adds nice details. At the top of the tub I added the front toll bar cross plate (don’t know what you really call it but it’s used at high speed tracks to stiffen even more the front roll bar) from Thunder Valley upgrades. I added tiny hardware were the plate connects to the rollbar but doubt you can see it. Tiny hardware I’m working with but it adds to the detail. Also added the aluminum spacers from a Thunder Valley were the front bell cranks will bolt too. Here are a couple of pics. Sorry for the lousy pics but it’s from an old iPhone. 

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Since I had painted the side gearbox covers fluorescent red from Tamiya, I decided to just go ahead and paint the engine cover rear wing and rear wing end plates. Basically I sanded away all mound lines and putty all the injector dimples on the underside of the engine cover. Once I was happy with the sanding, I washed it with detergent and rinsed it. I sprayed a couple of coats of Tamiya white primer and checked for results. I then sprayed several coats of Tamiya white all over the cover. I then masked what areas needed to be masked and carefully sprayed several coats of Tamiya fluorescent red. I let it dry for a week then removed the tape. I wet sanded the whole engine cover with #3000 grit sandpaper careful not to cut to deep but just enough to get rid of the hump from where the colors join. I then rinsed it complete and dried it off. Next will be applying the decals but that will later. 62C92801-2CC2-46F0-BA16-3D90A2AD6B92.jpeg.dad471136dc8f2eb179c1ad7f19d059c.jpeg

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  • 2 weeks later...


Here are pictures of the progress the past couple of weeks. The tub is almost finished just small details before I get on with the engine. Here as you can see I’m done with the radiator ducts and glued to the tub. All the wiring loom is done apart from a couple of wires. That was the most stressful bit and glad its finished. I was pretty satisfied with the results however my eyes took a beating. Now everyone have different ways to do the radiator ducts. I notices from pictures the ducts had layers on them where it bends do I did mine by layering CF decals cut at the correct angles like the real cars. I then applied the final CF decal to cover the whole duct. I then applied quick brisk coats of smoke paint over the entire duct. The external battery and ignition box won the left side we’re pretty straight forward. I was disappointed Tamiya didn’t offer decals for those parts as well as the shocks. I glued rubber spacers to seperate it from the radiator duct as it should be. I was able to get heat shrink tubing that is very very small and shrinks 2:1. Instead of using the top studio metal tyraps I just cut very thin heat shrink tubing and slipped it over the wiring and glued them in place. The wiring loom at the rear of the tub was secured by very very thin wiring to secure it place. The water header tank on the right side was straightforward. I used clear tubing and wrapped it with black tubing but only at the ends. For the front uprights I drilled two additional holes on the steering plates and added hardware from RB Motion. I also added wheel bearings like the rears and gearbox and spin nice and free not that the car is going anywhere. I took an extra picture of the mock up of the radiator.

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The past week I’ve been working on the front suspension and build up the uprights and brakes ducts. I didn’t use any of the screws supplied by Tamiya except for the bottom screw for the uprights. The rest of the hardware was from RBMotion. The brake discs assembly is from Top Studio. Pretty straightforward with some patience. The Tamiya brake ducts were wrong and Top Studio didn’t have any upgrades so I scratch build them by adding the inner walls that are missing from front and back on the inner bit of the brake ducts. Once that was done I applied CF and sprayed with dulcoat. The rest was straightforward. I added an antenna at the front also from Top Studio. I’m basically done with tub and front suspension so now I will concentrate on the engine.

 

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I applied the decals on the bodywork and was happy with the results. I also applied CF on the underside of the bodywork and also added the foil. I will not apply a clear coat but just wax it to a nice buff. I also did the tyres which was pretty simple. I added tyre valves from RB Motion and added wheel weights. I will add the writings on the sidewalk at a later date. Also worked the floor. I decaled it with 1/24 scale CF. I will add the Top Studio upgrades at a later date. I’m holding off on the engine for another week to get some hardware. In the meantime I’ll start on the brake calipers. I’ll have details next week along with pictures.

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On 8/13/2020 at 12:14 AM, absmiami said:

Any thoughts on 

brake-ductgate ??

Not that you were asking me, but it seems like the FIA left a hole in the rules that didn’t account for the “can’t forget something you’ve learned” aspect of parts sharing between manufacturers and they’ve compromised between somewhat placating the other teams and trying to let Racing Point off the hook a little and ended up pleasing nobody.  I’m glad that racing is happening again to though 

Back on topic - great looking build!  I love it!  Makes me want to build one of my own!  The paint looks great on it, in particular, very clean and well done ?? 

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I’ve started on the engine a few days ago and as you all know I split the engine from the gearbox. I started with removing all the mold lines by sanding. I drilled all the holes that will take hardware with a .5mm drill. I test fitted the engine to the chassis to make sure everything is proper and it wasn’t. For some reason Top Studio added PE sheet for the rear bulkhead which I didn’t use however I did use the shims that go thru the mounting screws provided by Top Studio so basically when you mount the engine to the back of the chassis, the screw hole from the floor is not aligned to the screw hole in the engine by I’m guessing .5-.6mm. Don’t know if anyone has had this issue. I sanded off the mounts from the four points in the engine to compensate for the difference. Once I was able to mount the engine and able to screw the engine to the floor I applied primer. I checked for all the sanding marks etc and everything was good for the semi black paint. I use a wooded stand base while I work on the engine so I won’t touch it much when applying bits and hardware to it

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I’ve started on the engine a few days ago and as you all know I split the engine from the gearbox. I started with removing all the mold lines by sanding. I drilled all the holes that will take hardware with a .5mm drill. I test fitted the engine to the chassis to make sure everything is proper and it wasn’t. For some reason Top Studio added PE sheet for the rear bulkhead which I didn’t use however I did use the shims that go thru the mounting screws provided by Top Studio so basically when you mount the engine to the back of the chassis, the screw hole from the floor is not aligned to the screw hole in the engine by I’m guessing .5-.6mm. Don’t know if anyone has had this issue. I sanded off the mounts from the four points in the engine to compensate for the difference. Once I was able to mount the engine and able to screw the engine to the floor I applied primer. I checked for all the sanding marks etc and everything was good for the semi black paint. I use a wooded stand base while I work on the engine so I won’t touch it much when applying bits and hardware to it

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More progress on the engine. Painted the insides of the valve covers flat white. Glued the exhaust flanges to the heads with Tamiya cement instead if using CA glue so that I can manouvre the flanges in place till I got them lined up correctly. I detailed the alternator even though you won’t see it. Also added the water pump on the left side. I will add the oil pump on the right side another time.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Making progress with this engine. Top Studio has a nice upgrade for the engine and it’s been fun to build but also a bit stressful as well. The main problem is not loosing those tiny rivets. I’m about half way done with it and so far it’s looking nice but it can probably look better. Working with these tiny bits is a handful. The biggest challenge I think will be the wiring loom. I’m taking a break and charge my batteries before I tackle the rest. Here is a couple of pics of the progress so far. I haven’t scratch build anything yet but will do for the second part. 

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