Matt Bacon Posted October 12, 2020 Posted October 12, 2020 This has been lurking in the stash for quite some time... I'm not sure what brought it to the top, but a nice straightforward Tamiya build is just what the doctor ordered! Thanks to the way the real car is engineered, there's no main bodyshell... the components and panels hang off the chassis and tub. Basecoated with Zero Paints Mercedes SLR-specific Palladium Silver. I quite like the matt look, but... The chassis is somewhat simplified, but in terms of what you can actually see when it's built, it does the job, IMHO. Interior trim under way -- I wanted one of the more colourful options, rather than plain black. Tamiya NATO Black for the majority, so details painted in semi- or gloss black will actually be visible. Two piece engine washed to pop out the detail. Better not forget the decals on the brake callipers! Zero Diamond 2K clear coat on. This is straight out of the airbrush... I haven't sanded the primer, the base coat or the clearcoat Time to progress the interior... best, M.
OldNYJim Posted October 13, 2020 Posted October 13, 2020 7 hours ago, Matt Bacon said: Zero Diamond 2K clear coat on. This is straight out of the airbrush... I haven't sanded the primer, the base coat or the clearcoat Looking great, with that 2K clear! Dumb question; what does one use for airbrush clean-up with 2K? Â Regular lacquer thinner?Â
kelson Posted October 14, 2020 Posted October 14, 2020 Real nice so far!,i seem to remember buying a convertible transkit for this kit ,years ago but can't remember who made it.
Matt Bacon Posted October 14, 2020 Author Posted October 14, 2020 Thanks, guys... @CabDriver yep, regular lacquer thinner will work. I use Zero Paints Airbrush Cleaner which is much cheaper than the thinner they package with the 2K components. A good mask is essential and fume extraction if you’re not in the open air, but the finish is hard to beat even as it comes straight from the airbrush... best, M.
OldNYJim Posted October 15, 2020 Posted October 15, 2020 5 hours ago, Matt Bacon said: Thanks, guys... @CabDriver yep, regular lacquer thinner will work. I use Zero Paints Airbrush Cleaner which is much cheaper than the thinner they package with the 2K components. A good mask is essential and fume extraction if you’re not in the open air, but the finish is hard to beat even as it comes straight from the airbrush... best, M. And what does one do, heaven forbid, if you screw up and have to strip it?  Do the usual suspects work for that too?   Really impressed with your finish - makes me wanna try it myself!  GREAT work!
Matt Bacon Posted October 15, 2020 Author Posted October 15, 2020 3 hours ago, CabDriver said: And what does one do, heaven forbid, if you screw up and have to strip it?  Do the usual suspects work for that too? 99% Isopropyl alcohol will take it off. If it’s recently cured, a bath overnight will lift it off in sheets. If it’s older it might take a few days. best, M.
Dann Tier Posted October 15, 2020 Posted October 15, 2020 Looking FANTASTIC, Bud!!!!...the doors look like they fit pretty darn good!
Rich Chernosky Posted October 15, 2020 Posted October 15, 2020 Matt...this is a wonderful kit to build and you are off to a great start.  I see I am not the only one to use alligator clips mounted on sticks to hold and spray parts.Â
Matt Bacon Posted October 15, 2020 Author Posted October 15, 2020 Thanks, guys. I've heard some folks have problems with the fit and closing of the hood, so I thought I'd better try it sooner rather than later, while it was still fixable. The mountings on the hood just click onto the hinge bar, so it's not so risky... Looks basically OK... however... That's 3 2mmx1mm rare earth magnets let into the top of the engine, under the red induction cover. I'll put some tin can steel under the rear of the hood, which should be pulled down to snug it into place. Just trying out some of the interior parts. I'm pleased I chose the more dramatic black and red colour scheme. It's the one I'd have in a real one, too... best, M.
Pete75 Posted October 16, 2020 Posted October 16, 2020 Nice clean work! Not seen this kind of nanging bodywork assembly before - seems to fit together nicely. Cool magnet strategy! ?
Matt Bacon Posted October 16, 2020 Author Posted October 16, 2020 Thanks, guys. The interior is done now. Not many parts, but crisply detailed and easy to paint. Citadel paints and some art pens... As someone in a Youtube video I watched for research purposes ? said: "It's not very special inside for something that costs so much money..." ...and finally: State of play for tonight... symphony in black, red and silver... best, M.
Matt Bacon Posted October 20, 2020 Author Posted October 20, 2020 Thanks, Randy! Chassis is now complete: The weighty metal undertray gives the whole thing a high-quality heft, and I think the "soft chrome" of the wheels is spot on from Tamiya. Continuing to test fit the hood -- there's something very Batman about this shot! Looks like a very badass go-cart, doesn't it? best, M.
Matt Bacon Posted October 21, 2020 Author Posted October 21, 2020 On the home stretch now. The fit of the body, windows lights etc. is just stellar. Still haven't quite conquered the hood, but I'm now waiting until doors, windscreen and wipers are on before "fine tuning"... ? Now I just have to decide what number plate will suit this one! best, M.
Matt Bacon Posted October 22, 2020 Author Posted October 22, 2020 Door interiors: Small they may be, but the painting is pretty involved! Another great example of clever Tamiya engineering: the central red panel of each door is separate, and slides into a slot under the raised handle before clipping into place in the main door card. You just have to paint it red, and you get the area behind the handle neatly painted, and a gap behind the handle as on the real thing. I reckon most manufacturers would have moulded the whole thing as one piece with the handle integral, making for much trickier painting to make it look vaguely like the original. best, M.
Dann Tier Posted October 23, 2020 Posted October 23, 2020 6 hours ago, Matt Bacon said: Door interiors: Small they may be, but the painting is pretty involved! Another great example of clever Tamiya engineering: the central red panel of each door is separate, and slides into a slot under the raised handle before clipping into place in the main door card. You just have to paint it red, and you get the area behind the handle neatly painted, and a gap behind the handle as on the real thing. I reckon most manufacturers would have moulded the whole thing as one piece with the handle integral, making for much trickier painting to make it look vaguely like the original. best, M. BEAUTIFUL!!!!...cant wait to see it under glass!!! -are you worried that the weight of the chassis will eventually cause the suspension plastic to weeken, and sag?
Matt Bacon Posted October 25, 2020 Author Posted October 25, 2020 Thanks, @Dann Tier, no, the chassis gives it a more positive "sit" but it ain't that heavy. The rear axle is a metal rod through the tub, and the fronts are well supported (many diecasts have plastic chassis under that metal body, after all...). Just the last few metal transfers/stickers to go on and she'll be done... Next time you see this, it'll be in Under Glass... best, M.
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