Window trim?

[Tim08]

 Has anyone tried black bare metal foil? I was thinking about picking up a sheet and trying some out on my cannonball build. Wanted to get some input before I try.

[Dpate]

1 hour ago, Tim08 said:

 Has anyone tried black bare metal foil? I was thinking about picking up a sheet and trying some out on my cannonball build. Wanted to get some input before I try.

Haven’t tried it, and not sure if it works as good as new improved chrome. But wouldn’t the black polish up, and be too shiny after burnishing it down compared to semi gloss black? Unless it keeps a Matt finish after it’s down. 

[BDSchindler]

1 hour ago, Tim08 said:

 Has anyone tried black bare metal foil? I was thinking about picking up a sheet and trying some out on my cannonball build. Wanted to get some input before I try.

I used Black BMF on my Novcam (Camaro side panels on a Nova).  Although worked well, the Sharpie Industrial worked better in my opinion.

[Nacho Z]

I've used the black BMF before on a Corvette windshield frame. It has been a long time ago but if memory serves me, I didn't like it. It was a little thicker and didn't adhere very well. I think the black may have even worn off a little when I burnished it. I would hate to give you bad information but that is how I remember it. I will tell you that I have never used it again. As someone else pointed out, it has the wrong sheen to it for window trim or any rubber trim.

[peteski]

The black coating on BMF can wear off, and it is too shiny for representing typical rubber gasket or even satin black painted trim.  The silver edge will also be visible. Annd as others have said, it is not as pliable as the original or new chrome BMF.

[Tim08]

Thanx for the info fellas. I'll probably go with the masking method.

[Odeman]

On 9/3/2023 at 1:29 PM, peteski said:

If none of those liquids removed tape residue, and only sanding took care of the problem, that to me indicates that it is  not adhesive residue but the solvent in the paint you used permeated the tape and actually softened the plastic, so the tape's adhesive imprinted into the plastic. Either change the type of paint used, spray lighter layers, and remove the tape as soon as the paint flashes over.

Thanks, I really appreciate any possibilities. I use Tamiya acrylic paint and TS-13 clear spray rattle cans…

[Odeman]

1 minute ago, Odeman said:

Thanks, I really appreciate any possibilities. I use Tamiya acrylic paint and TS-13 clear spray rattle cans…

Probably putting on too thick as well.

[Odeman]

3 minutes ago, Odeman said:

Probably putting on too thick as well. Is it possible I don’t let it dry long enough? I let the clear dry overnight or longer.

 

 

[Odeman]

I also just read the you should use clear enamel over acrylic and clear acrylic over enamel. Any confirmations on this? I am returning to modeling after 30 years off and want to take hobby to the next level. I am having problems airbrushing clear coats as in how many coats and how thick. I have watched videos but made lots of mistakes trying to get it right. I realize it’s a process so I appreciate all and any suggestions.

[Bainford]

On 9/6/2023 at 7:21 PM, Odeman said:

I also just read the you should use clear enamel over acrylic and clear acrylic over enamel. Any confirmations on this?

You can use Clear enamel over most acrylics and vice versa, but I don't know if you necessarily should. I am not aware of any rule that specifically makes that statement. (I say most acrylics, as the acrylic nomenclature covers a wide variety of different paint formulations. In the case of acrylic paints created specifically for our hobby, you would be ok. As for the various craft acrylics, I have no idea)

You can shoot acrylic clear over almost any paint that is well cured. Personally, I avoid enamel clear altogether as it has a tendency to yellow over time when applied over light colours. With so many good hobby-based acrylic & lacquer clears on the market, I see no reason to bother with enamel clears at all. However, do not use a lacquer clear over enamel paint.

Edited September 11, 2023 by Bainford

[Odeman]

On 9/11/2023 at 9:25 AM, Bainford said:

You can use Clear enamel over most acrylics and vice versa, but I don't know if you necessarily should. I am not aware of any rule that specifically makes that statement. (I say most acrylics, as the acrylic nomenclature covers a wide variety of different paint formulations. In the case of acrylic paints created specifically for our hobby, you would be ok. As for the various craft acrylics, I have no idea)

You can shoot acrylic clear over almost any paint that is well cured. Personally, I avoid enamel clear altogether as it has a tendency to yellow over time when applied over light colours. With so many good hobby-based acrylic & lacquer clears on the market, I see no reason to bother with enamel clears at all. However, do not use a lacquer clear over enamel paint.

THANKS MY FRIEND. I am fighting tape residue issues and looking for solutions so I am looking at the finishes as a possible problem. I wonder if I should polish first?

[Skip]

I use the Vallejo Tyre Black, depending on the size of the window gasket, I either freehand it with a small brush or mask it off and then brush it on.  The Vallejo Model Air is too thin for my likes, I think it's too opaque and can allow the underlying color to show through.  That's just my 2-cents though!