Decal masters please respond!

[Venom]

Hey guys,

I need a crash course in applying larger decals. I’m one of those people that shys away from decals whenever I can. I’m talking anything that’s the size of a thumb or bigger. When it comes to racing stripes and the like I opt for painting them on rather than trying to apply the decals, because for me, masking and painting gives me close to guaranteed results, even if it takes me 10 times longer... It’s because I’ve had a couple bad decal experiences in the past, and the one thing that will make me flip out like a lunatic is a blemished decal after polishing out a paint job. I can’t stand seeing a wrinkle in a decal, so anytime a decal has to go over curves such as a hood scoop, I avoid it altogether. I do however believe I could be good at decals if only I knew some tricks and more of what to expect from products like decal setting solution.

I have this beautiful HRM Daytona Coupe that I’m building and I’d like to use the decals rather than painting, so any of your experienced input here would be greatly appreciated!

*My single biggest question is: Exactly what is decal setting solution and how are you supposed to use it?

*I’d also like to know how well decal removal solution works in case you have an epic fail, and can it harm the paint?

**In case it matters, all my spraying is done with high end waterborne paint and clear.

Again, any experienced help would be appreciated. Thank you!

 

[misterNNL]

I have the same problem Josh. I do a lot of scratch building of antique travel trailers a lot of which have riveted metal outer shells. I really should add some decal rivets to them but am terrified about the outcome. I have a '37 Pierce Arrow 19' trailer at the point of paint and the rivet thing is rattling around in what's left of my paint fume tainted mind. If I copy what the original trailers had I would need to apply an actual 8' of rivets to this thing. My brain tells my that surely I would screw that up big time so it probably is not gonna happen.

[Venom]

11 minutes ago, misterNNL said:

I have the same problem Josh. I do a lot of scratch building of antique travel trailers a lot of which have riveted metal outer shells. I really should add some decal rivets to them but am terrified about the outcome. I have a '37 Pierce Arrow 19' trailer at the point of paint and the rivet thing is rattling around in what's left of my paint fume tainted mind. If I copy what the original trailers had I would need to apply an actual 8' of rivets to this thing. My brain tells my that surely I would screw that up big time so it probably is not gonna happen.

Thanks for speaking up...that makes me feel a bit better.

Hopefully we’ll both get to learn something here.

[cobraman]

I use Solveset and have for years. Makes decals snuggle great. Thats not much help to you but maybe a place to start.

[Venom]

Thanks Ray

[SCRWDRVR]

I personally don’t use setting solution unless there are curves in the area applied that will need the decal softened it makes the decal stiffer and easier to get in the area you want it then once in place if you need to soften a spot to get it to lay down you can put solution on it. I’ve done a lot off nascar kits with just water, patience when applying them is key. You have to take your time and work the water out from under it but you will probably see a cloudy effect under it and that should go away when dry it’s the glue. Also use warm water it works better. I’m definitely no pro when it comes to decals but I have applied a lot of them. Hope this helps

[Venom]

1 hour ago, cobraman said:

I use Solveset and have for years. Makes decals snuggle great. Thats not much help to you but maybe a place to start.

So, are you supposed to add it to the water or just brush it on after it is applied to the model? Seems that once you apply the decal you only have about 1 or 2 minutes before it’s no longer workable... so does the setting solution work instantly?

[cobraman]

It works fairly quick but you do have time. I apply it after i get the decal situated and then brush it on. I do prod it a bit with the brush if needed and then don't screw with it, just let it do it's job.

[misterNNL]

So if my model is going to be navy blue, I should paint it first,then apply the rivet decals,then another coat of blue on top to seal everything?

[peteski]

https://www.themightybrush.com/article/how-to-apply-decals-with-microset-and-microsol/

And rigth from the decal manufacturer:

http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/graphics/Instructions/MSISysteminstr.pdf

[Venom]

Peter, thank you for the link. I’ll be looking into it.

[935k3]

I use Micro set but mix ins soap water to keep them movable. I have had big decals dry and stick and become really hard to move, The soap keeps them evenly wet. This car was painted white , every thing else is decal

 

[Venom]

1 hour ago, 935k3 said:

I use Micro set but mix ins soap water to keep them movable. I have had big decals dry and stick and become really hard to move, The soap keeps them evenly wet. This car was painted white , every thing else is decal

 

First of all Dale... that is amazing work!  I’d say you qualify as a decal master?

In reading your response my question is... Do you mix a bit of dish soap in with a container of water that you then dip the decal into, or do you add soapy water to the Microset? Or is it something else? Please share more details. Thanks!

Edited January 29, 2021 by Venom

[Fantom]

For larger decals my process is as follows: soak the decal for only a few minutes..remove from water and let sit for a few more... with a flat SOFT brush, wet the area the decal will lay with plain water...by now the decal should be ready to slide into place, after applying the decal use the same brush to move it into place starting in the center, smooth the excess water out , this will also help settle the decal, once you have it exactly where you want it , allow it to dry for 10 to 15 minutes,more if necessary, you need to have the decal dry enough to begin to stick to the model ... at this point I begin applying the solvent to no more than 50% of the decal, 30% is better....allow it work... you should see some wrinkles where you applied the solvent...do not attempt to smooth those...as that solvent dries it will smooth itself back out...after 20-30 minutes repeat with the remaining decal sticking with 30 to 50 % of the decal...fine engraved detail areas such as door seems and raised detail may need several applications of solvent...the main idea is to go slow with the solvent and to not apply it to the entire decal all at once. This works for me , good luck

[Venom]

Cl, thank you for that detailed information. It is great to be hearing how you guys do this!

[935k3]

11 hours ago, Venom said:

First of all Dale... that is amazing work!  I’d say you qualify as a decal master?

In reading your response my question is... Do you mix a bit of dish soap in with a container of water that you then dip the decal into, or do you add soapy water to the Microset? Or is it something else? Please share more details. Thanks!

I mix it with the Microset.

[Venom]

1 minute ago, 935k3 said:

I mix it with the Microset.

Thank you Dale

[Venom]

17 hours ago, misterNNL said:

I have a '37 Pierce Arrow 19' trailer at the point of paint and the rivet thing is rattling around in what's left of my paint fume tainted mind.

 

15 hours ago, misterNNL said:

So if my model is going to be navy blue, I should paint it first,then apply the rivet decals,then another coat of blue on top to seal everything?

Tom, first I must say that this ‘37 Pierce Arrow is a beautiful little trailer, especially when combined with the car. Gorgious!!

Im not sure I understand your question correctly however... It seems that if you spray down blue, then apply rivet decals, then spray another coat of blue over top of decals, then the decals will disappear under the second coat of paint. Unless perhaps you are thinking of some sort of 3D type decal where the rivet bumps are raised, then your thought seems to be the appropriate method... but I am not aware of any kind of 3D decals. You might consider starting a new topic about this subject and possibly get some ideas stirring from a larger group of people. Maybe title it something like ‘Best way to make tiny rivets?’ ...Sorry Tom, wish I could be of better help.

[misterNNL]

Josh ,thanks for posting the images of the Pierce Arrow Travel Lodges for everyone to see. These were only produced for a short time in 1937 as an attempt to keep cash flow going for their automotive div. Approx. 400 total were made. Incidentally that did not work .The rivets I am thinking of using are in fact made by Micro-Mark Co. and are resin rivets raised up off the surface off of the sheet. They are a product made for model railroaders. The set I have is marked "O" scale which is the closest to 1/25th. There are lots of different patterns including single and double rows,  and even some louvers. They recommend applying them then spraying a coat of paint over the top .FYI Archer Co. also sells some louver decals that are raised on the surface with resin.

[Venom]

13 minutes ago, misterNNL said:

Josh ,thanks for posting the images of the Pierce Arrow Travel Lodges for everyone to see. These were only produced for a short time in 1937 as an attempt to keep cash flow going for their automotive div. Approx. 400 total were made. Incidentally that did not work .The rivets I am thinking of using are in fact made by Micro-Mark Co. and are resin rivets raised up off the surface off of the sheet. They are a product made for model railroaders. The set I have is marked "O" scale which is the closest to 1/25th. There are lots of different patterns including single and double rows,  and even some louvers. They recommend applying them then spraying a coat of paint over the top .FYI Archer Co. also sells some louver decals that are raised on the surface with resin.

Sure thing Tom, and good luck!

[peteski]

4 hours ago, Venom said:

Im not sure I understand your question correctly however... It seems that if you spray down blue, then apply rivet decals, then spray another coat of blue over top of decals, then the decals will disappear under the second coat of paint. Unless perhaps you are thinking of some sort of 3D type decal where the rivet bumps are raised, then your thought seems to be the appropriate method... but I am not aware of any kind of 3D decals.

Yes, there are 3D river decals out there: Microscale and Archer both make them (Archer rivets are little more "3D").  Do a Google search for either type.  Those are best applied before the final lcolors. That way the clear carrier will get hidden while the protruding rivets will still be visible.