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Posted

I need help with this one. I have been using the orange tube of Testors glue for years and it has usually been pretty good. I have noticed a decline in how well it works recently though. But it will not hold this tanker together.  Yes I scrapped the playing from the seams but it just will not stay together. The chassis will not stay on the bottom of the tanker it doesn't fit together right. I don't like to give up but this thing might beat me. What can be done? 

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Posted

Toss that range tube of Testors glue in the trash bin, and don't buy more. There are far better cements/glues/adhesives available.

A liquid cement, applied with a brush, will give you better control. Applying the cement a little at a time will soften the plastic (essentially, you are melting the plastic), which makes the plastic a bit tacky and gives both pieces to be joined a bit of "bite". Apply a little to both sides, wait the suggested time period (see bottle label), then apply a little more hold parts together for a minute, allow to cure.

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Posted

X2 on what Casey said.  Thin liquid cements changed my modeling life 25 years ago.  I wouldn't consider the Testors tube cement myself, though some people do still have a use for it.  I can't avoid making a mess with it.

Posted

i agree with the tamiya glue but you have to be very careful. i have too many times held a piece in place only to find when i removed my fingers that the glue went through the gap and under my finger and left a big glue finger print

 

now i use model master glue for anything related to the body

Posted
14 hours ago, youpey said:

i agree with the tamiya glue but you have to be very careful. i have too many times held a piece in place only to find when i removed my fingers that the glue went through the gap and under my finger and left a big glue finger print

 

now i use model master glue for anything related to the body

Since they have discontinued the Model Master paint, wonder if they'll do the same with the cement?

Posted
1 hour ago, El Roberto said:

Since they have discontinued the Model Master paint, wonder if they'll do the same with the cement?

they have, but i found some on ebay. 

Posted

Consider adding strips of plastic INSIDE the tank seams to provide more gluable surface to hold the tank halves together, and to give strength to the seam after it's built. 

I too would recommend giving up tube glue and try using other adhesives. I personally only use Krazy Glue for my go to glue. You have to be more precise, but it dries fast, is sandable, doesn't shrink and is more permanent for the future. 

Posted

Thanks for all the tips guys. I will stop using the glue. And use the suggestions you all mentioned instead. This tanker is the hardest kit I have ever done. 

Posted (edited)

Just as Patrick suggested, adding strips inside greatly helps. I’ve built several of these tanker kits, and have found, using strips, or duct tape inside is the way to go. You will never see the tape through the plating, or through the paint in earlier releases of this tanker kit. Another thing you might want to consider is using 5 min epoxy instead of cement. I get a stronger bond, and quick dry time, without even scraping any of the plating off. I’ve read that many consider this a challenging build, but once you get the bugs worked out, like the tank to frame mounts, the build becomes very enjoyable, IMO. 

Edited by Brutalform
Posted

A good compromise  would be the Tamiya thick liquid cement( the bottle with the orange cap). I use it the most of my glues. The Tamiya thin glue is good for basic assembly but not so much for pieces that have been painted because the glue tends to seep from the joined parts.

 

Posted

I agree.

Nix on the Testor's cement.

It's always been a PITA as far as I'm concerned anyway.

 

Get some 2 part epoxy for a job like this as Tom suggested.

Liquid cements and CA glues can cloud, or otherwise mar the chrome finish if you're not extremely careful.

Epoxy will not harm the chrome, and it will give you an extremely strong bond.

 

 

 

 

Steve

 

Posted

It's much better than the tube glue, but harder to apply in large areas as it air dries very fast. Liquid glue flows by capillary action and is best to use in small areas and applied after parts are held together.

Epoxies and super glues can be easily found at auto parts stores, Wal Marts and even dollar stores. So supplies should never be an issue. 

Posted
Just now, Oldcarfan27 said:

It's much better than the tube glue, but harder to apply in large areas as it air dries very fast. Liquid glue flows by capillary action and is best to use in small areas and applied after parts are held together.

Epoxies and super glues can be easily found at auto parts stores, Wal Marts and even dollar stores. So supplies should never be an issue. 

Yes, I buy my epoxy at O'reilly auto parts.

I get JB-Weld "Clear Weld".

 

Been very happy with it.

 

Of course you can buy it almost anywhere on line as well.

 

 

 

 

Steve

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