Steamboat Posted March 11, 2021 Posted March 11, 2021 Personally I would toss them both and use either Tamiya clear lacquer or Model Master clear enamel. The last model I painted with Testors lacquer took me about 12 hours to polish out the orange peel!
espo Posted March 11, 2021 Posted March 11, 2021 The can on the left is their "Ultra Gloss" clear and the one on the right is their regular clear. Some swear by them and others don't care for them. Your personal experience my vary.
El Roberto Posted March 11, 2021 Posted March 11, 2021 I know with the Model Master ultra gloss you have to really spray bomb things to get a decent shine. Of course then you have a model that looks like you dunked it into a can of paint. I'd go with the Tamiya clear.
Snake45 Posted March 11, 2021 Posted March 11, 2021 They might well be exactly the same thing--the Testor one for the racks that have only Testor, not Model Master. Or the Testor one might be replacing the MM. I used this MM lacquer on a build recently. It performed okay--jut barely--but I wasn't impressed with it. I've learned to prefer a $4 can of Rustoleum High Lustre Clear Lacquer from Walmart. BTW, the $4 can is 11 oz vs 3 oz for the Testor stuff. No competition, AFAIC.
StevenGuthmiller Posted March 11, 2021 Posted March 11, 2021 5 hours ago, Steamboat said: Personally I would toss them both and use either Tamiya clear lacquer or Model Master clear enamel. The last model I painted with Testors lacquer took me about 12 hours to polish out the orange peel! Be aware that the Testors clear enamel will yellow very quickly over light colors. I use the clear lacquers on small parts, but never on bodies any more. Had too many problems with them. But I only use the enamel when the severe yellowing is either not an issue, or is desired, like when I sprayed it over this Pontiac transparent steering wheel to achieve the aged look that I wanted. Steve
Claude Thibodeau Posted March 13, 2021 Posted March 13, 2021 Hi! For some reason, the one in the blue can is VERY smelly. I understand that's because it is HOTTER than the Wet Look clear. It certainly is less viscous, and in my experience, can almost "attack" the underlying color coat. I only use it as an "intercoat clear" if needed to seal graphics before more sanding and color/top coat application. An very lightly at that... The one in the black can was more akin to the Wet Look clear, in my experience. Got a decent finish with it (medium-wet coat), and it polished well 48 hours later. Hope it helps... CT
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