Struggling with decals

[ksnow]

I am to the point of applying decals on the Revell/monogram 1970 buick gsx. I started with the small center caps on the wheels. For the life of me, I could not get them to settle into the cap or get the edges to lay down. The next day I tried to trim the edges with a brand new x-acto blade and the decals fell of the caps, like they weren't even stuck at all. 

I also applied the stripes to the hood, and there is terrible hazing in the clear edges. The hazing is much more noticeable on the satin black center of the hood than the yellow sides. If I wet the decal with a swab, the hazing clears up, but reappears when dry.

I am not using any setting solution or solvent, as the instructions say the decals are not compatible.

I am using warm water and wetting the area that the decal is applied. I apply the decal with wet fingers, then use cotton swabs to dab the water away while positioning the decal.

Any helpful hints to make the hazing disappear and the decals adhere better? Next up are the large stripes, and I don't want to mess them up.

Thanks in advance.

[vamach1]

I always trim the decal as close as possible to the edge so there isn’t any “clear” portion that can haze.  As for small decals - I have used a tiny amount of white glue and then press a wet Q-tip onto the decal to press in into a recessed area like a center cap or gauge.  Then once dry I add some Kristal Klear over it which dries clear and helps protect the decal.

[cobraman]

I have found that decals on a flat or satin finish will always show the edges unless you trim right up to the color but that can be risky. I always use Solveset setting solution and never had a problem with decals such as center caps. Someone who knows more will be along soon with better advise.

[TarheelRick]

Almost all decals will show haze around the edges when applied to satin or flat finish paints.  The only way I know to overcome that is to paint the surface with a gloss clear first, apply the decal and when dry repaint with a semi-gloss or flat clear.

Edited March 18, 2021 by TarheelRick

[ksnow]

Thanks guys.

I was thinking the satin finish had something to do with the visible edges. I'll try the glue idea for the center caps and start trimming the decal edges closer.

I'll have to find some solv a set and give that a go.

[espo]

A question on how old the decals are ? This can cause some of the problems with the edge being visible beyond the afore mentioned issues mentioned by everyone else. With older decals I have had to use a wet Q-Tip to wipe off the back side of a decal to remove what I think may be degraded adhesive. I have had some decals that are so old that it looked more like mud than anything else and this seemed to work.  A suggestion for the wheel center caps and steering wheels as well. Decals tend to want to stay flat even when removed from their carrier. They also don't seem to want to adhere to any chrome surfaces. I usually use a blade to remove as much of the chrome as possible  without showing. I use a #11 blade to notch the edges on a circular decal and use setting solution so that the decal will become pliable. A few additional tools to have handy. Besides some good tweezers I like to use toothpicks to move the decal around as needed. A clean paint brush works well also and use it to add setting solution or water as needed. A paper towel works well to remove water. 

[ksnow]

Thanks espo, these are 20ish year old decals. I can definitely see brownish adhesive around the decal on the sheet when I soak the decals in water. I will try wiping all of that away before I place the decal. 

I do keep cotton swabs, a brand new x-acto blade, toothpicks and paper towels handy when decaling.

[espo]

2 minutes ago, ksnow said:

Thanks espo, these are 20ish year old decals. I can definitely see brownish adhesive around the decal on the sheet when I soak the decals in water. I will try wiping all of that away before I place the decal. 

I do keep cotton swabs, a brand new x-acto blade, toothpicks and paper towels handy when decaling.

The decals I mentioned dated to the late '70's. I didn't even think I would be able to save them.  I flipped them over while they were still in the water and cleaned them off with the Q-Tip. They went down well after that. I'm one of the "Clear over decal" types so I don't think that they will come off later. A couple of years now and still look as good as new. 

[TransAmMike]

Good replies by "ksnow" and "espo".   I use all the items mentioned and Micro-sol and set and I expect it helps. Big problem I had was on the '66 Mustang I just recently completed(well almost). Putting the stripes over the compound curves on the hood scoop. I got them down flat with a lot of messaging but after drying out, not so flat on the sides. 

[ksnow]

I want to thank everyone for their help on this topic. I finally got the courage top tackle the body stripes on the gsx. They turned out awesome. Not sure if I can do anything to improve the hood stripes that have the ghosted edges, but at least I learned.

[935k3]

Wet under the  decal with Future,  it  will get rid of the silvering and glue the decal  down. Clean up with straight ammonia, not Windex.

[ksnow]

13 minutes ago, 935k3 said:

Wet under the  decal with Future,  it  will get rid of the silvering and glue the decal  down. Clean up with straight ammonia, not Windex.

The silvering  is on the black satin part of the hood. Would future penetrate the decal and clear it up?

[Bainford]

12 hours ago, ksnow said:

The silvering  is on the black satin part of the hood. Would future penetrate the decal and clear it up?

Future will ruin the sheen of the satin black hood.

[ksnow]

8 minutes ago, Bainford said:

Future will ruin the sheen of the satin black hood.

Yeah, I figured that would happen. Guess I was wondering from 935k3's post, if I future'd over the decal, let it set up and then cleaned off the satin black area with ammonia, would that help the silvering. I'm okay with the way it is, at least I know how to remedy it in the future. Maybe some day I'll find a replacement decal sheet, strip the hood and try again.