*1967 Chevelle Pro Street Build*

[DoctorLarry]

You can also go to Hobby Lobby and look in the beading section. There are lots of different sizes and colors of beading wire. I use that for anodized hard lines and braided lines like oil lines.

[DoctorLarry]

You can drill out the distributor center like you did and anchor the wires with a drop of super glue. I spritz it with ZipKicker to set them in before they can move.

[Zippi]

Thanks for the idea's guys.  I found some 16 ga. wire that I striped off the insulation that may work.  The smaller insulation is the extra I had left from the wired distributor that I bought a from Model Roundup while back.  Maybe there is enough to use.  

[Tom Geiger]

On 4/13/2021 at 10:20 AM, Zippi said:

I am really disappointed in this amt kit.  It is full of flash, warped parts, and the parts don't fit very good at all.  The heads do not want to mate up to the Tunnel ran setup and look nice enough for me.  I shaved the nubs off the bottom of the heads to move them around for a better fit and look presentable. 

I pretty much sand off all the kit nubs and sand the matching surfaces flat. The older the kit, the worse fit will be, a combination of less precision in the old days and wear in the mold. 

I am working with the Hemi from an old Fireball 500 kit and it’s the worst! Once I got the two engine halves together, the front of the engine where the water pump / pulley part goes, literally comes to a point where the halves meet. I had to sand it flat for the front cover part to sit right. 
And following along with not relying on kit nubs, I usually drill out everything and insert straight pins for mounting. 

Edited April 15, 2021 by Tom Geiger

[DoctorLarry]

Another idea I use for plug wire boots is heat shrink tubing. Cut it to the same length, put it on the plug wires and shrink it. It won't fall off after that and looks like an actual plug wire.

[Zippi]

2 hours ago, Tom Geiger said:

I pretty much sand off all the kit nubs and sand the matching surfaces flat. The older the kit, the worse fit will be, a combination of less precision in the old days and wear in the mold. 

I am working with the Hemi from an old Fireball 500 kit and it’s the worst! Once I got the two engine halves together, the front of the engine where the water pump / pulley part goes, literally comes to a point where the halves meet. I had to sand it flat for the front cover part to sit right. 
And following along with not relying on kit nubs, I usually drill out everything and insert straight pins for mounting. 

Tom,  I gotta give ya two thumbs up on working out all the issue on that Fireball kit.  Having a lot of issues is my downfall because I don't have the patients and tend to rush things.  I'm working on it but it creeps out from time to time.  

[Zippi]

My plug wire came in last night.  I got the engine wired and about 90% done.  The rest will be done once the engine is installed in the chassis.  The velocity stacks are just setting there for the pics.  They still need a little work.   

Edited April 16, 2021 by Zippi

[NOBLNG]

Looking good there Bob.?

[FLHCAHZ]

Really looking good!

[Zippi]

Thanks fellows.

[Zippi]

Maybe you fellows can help me out.  I used the Tamiya black panel line accent to black wash the intake and transmission. I used it sparingly but it seemed to pool at the bottom of the intake.  What's the trick to using the Tamiya as a black wash?  I've been seeing some fellows on this forum using the aluminum metalizer spray paint and I really like the looks of it.  It has a more realistic look vs doing a black wash.  Anyone using the metalizer spray paint vs black wash?  Pro's & Con's?         

[Zippi]

Out shopping with the wife most of the day but got a little detail work done on the front and rear suspenion.  Went to a new flea market that just opened up called "Cowboy Jim's" and bought a new sign for the garage.  Wife says I already have to many.  What ever.  Also went to my favorte store HL and picked up a couple bottles of Anits's Craft Paint.  I noticed a lablel on the back of the bottles and I'm not sure what this means.  Anyone know???  One of these could be going on the Chevelle.  I'll do some spoon testing tomorrow. While at HL I now notice they have the Molotow Liquid Chrome Markers and in two different location in the store.  I was just there the other day and they told me they don't carry that brand.  HL needs to train the employees a little better.  

Edited April 17, 2021 by Zippi
Added pic

[TransAmMike]

Good choice for paint.  My latest go to.

[Zippi]

4 minutes ago, TransAmMike said:

Good choice for paint.  My latest go to.

Mike.....what do you think of that Rust-Oleum/Testors logo?

Edited April 17, 2021 by Zippi

[TransAmMike]

28 minutes ago, Zippi said:

Mike.....what do you think of that Rust-Oleum/Testors logo?

Ahh, doesn't bother me at all. Since the paint works for me, no problem. But I do like the DecoArt paints too. 

[Zippi]

Just now, TransAmMike said:

Ahh, doesn't bother me at all. Since the paint works for me, no problem. But I do like the DecoArt paints too. 

No biggy to me either.  Just wondering if all three are in cahoots with one another.  

[TransAmMike]

8 minutes ago, Zippi said:

No biggy to me either.  Just wondering if all three are in cahoots with one another.  

?

[Zippi]

I did the spoon test today on the Anita's Glossy Black Arcylic paint I bought the other day at HL.  I primed a couple spoons with Rust-Oleum 2X Flat Black primer and let them set for about an hour.  I first started out with a couple light coats of the Glossy Black letting the paint flash between coats and worked my way up to 6 coats with the last 2 coats being pretty heavy. I let the spoons set for an hour.  I then sprayed the spoons with 5 coats of Rust-Oleum 2X Gloss Clear because I had it on hand and couldn't wait for the Pledge I ordered to come in.  I see no reaction to the paint and I think it came out pretty good and it hasn't even been wet sanded yet.  That's something else new to me so I'll give it a try tomorrow.  I have some 1000 up to 12000 grit.  Any tips on wet sanding for the first time?  

Edited April 18, 2021 by Zippi

[TransAmMike]

4 minutes ago, Zippi said:

I did the spoon test today on the Anita's Glossy Black Arcylic paint I bought the other day at HL.  I primed a couple spoons with Rust-Oleum 2X Flat Black primer and let them set for about an hour.  I first started out with a couple light coats of the Glossy Black letting the paint flash between coats and worked my way up to 6 coats with the last 2 coats being pretty heavy. I let the spoons set for an hour.  I then sprayed the spoons with Rust-Oleum 2X Gloss Clear because I had it on hand and couldn't wait for the Pledge I ordered to come in.  I see no reaction to the paint and I think it came out pretty good and it hasn't even been wet sanded yet.  That's something else new to me so I'll give it a try tomorrow.  I have some 1000 up to 12000 grit.  Any tips on wet sanding for the first time?  

Looks good to me Bob.   It's the same system I will be using on my '55 Sedan.  How many clear coats tho??

[Zippi]

6 minutes ago, TransAmMike said:

Looks good to me Bob.   It's the same system I will be using on my '55 Sedan.  How many clear coats tho??

I think I put 3 light coats and let it flash 2 or 3 min then the last 2 coats I sprayed one after the other pretty heavy.  It looks pretty slick with not much orange peel.  

Edited April 18, 2021 by Zippi

[TransAmMike]

Just now, Zippi said:

I think I put 3 light coats and let it flash 2 or 3 min then the last 2 coats I sprayed one after the other pretty heavy.  It looks pretty slick with not much orange peel.  

Sounds about right.  It will polish out nicely.  So far I have never sanded a finish.  I just use a high quality medium  polishing compound to level it then liquid finish polish, but that just me.

[Zippi]

4 minutes ago, TransAmMike said:

Sounds about right.  It will polish out nicely.  So far I have never sanded a finish.  I just use a high quality medium  polishing compound to level it then liquid finish polish, but that just me.

So that Black Willys of yours was not wet sanded???  Man it looks good for just a polish job.  Can't see any orange peel.  I have some NOVUS 2 I was going to try after wet sanding then polish is with Meguiar's Ultimate liquid wax. 

[TransAmMike]

 

3 hours ago, Zippi said:

So that Black Willys of yours was not wet sanded???  Man it looks good for just a polish job.  Can't see any orange peel.  I have some NOVUS 2 I was going to try after wet sanding then polish is with Meguiar's Ultimate liquid wax. 

Actually Bob, since it was one of my early builds after returning to the hobby, it was painted with Krylon rattle can gloss black and not  even clear coated.  I too use the Meguires Ultimate.

[Zippi]

11 hours ago, TransAmMike said:

 

Actually Bob, since it was one of my early builds after returning to the hobby, it was painted with Krylon rattle can gloss black and not  even clear coated.  I too use the Meguires Ultimate.

Mike, I'm going to try and paint my Chevelle this afternoon weather permitting and if my paint comes out close to yours I'd be satisfied at this stage of the game.  I see your from middle Tennessee, My son lives in Franklin?    

[TransAmMike]

2 hours ago, Zippi said:

Mike, I'm going to try and paint my Chevelle this afternoon weather permitting and if my paint comes out close to yours I'd be satisfied at this stage of the game.  I see your from middle Tennessee, My son lives in Franklin?    

Well good luck Bob.  Your son live about 20 minutes from me, I'm in Columbia, south of Franklin.