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Posted (edited)

Finally started one of the Moebius Ford pickups that I've been acquiring over the last few years, as I now have 7 of the 11 issued (how did that happen)! May have picked out the wrong one, as the '67 sure looks more like a '68 in everything but the lack of side markers! I was hoping to do a stripped-down basic model, but the dash, door panels etc. all seem to be from the Custom Cab or from the '68! Anyway, soon as I started I had to make the front wheels posable, so off I went making a simple build much more complicated! Pictures show what I did

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Trimming away part of the hub top and bottom to accept tabs to attach to the spindle

 

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After adding the tabs, and little nuts to the pins to give it a more authentic look. More pics to come as I trim down the tabs and clip the pins once I'm happy with the look. Still have to figure out what to do with the tie rod...

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Edited by hct728(Bob)
Posted

Wheels are supposed to be glued in place, but I want them to roll, so I added rings to hold on the wheel backs so they can rotate. Wheels must be hogged out inside to clear the ring, but then they can be glued to the backs and will turn. Now working on backdating the dashboard to 1967 and removing deluxe trim on the body

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Posted (edited)

I have an in-progress engine picture too, as I made my own distributor with bare telephone wire, 24 gauge copper, with bits of insulation used as boots. Fortunatly Acrylic paint seems to work okay for finishing off the copper. Too late I noticed the overall blue paint colour is too dark, I’ll get it right in the next one

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Tried to assemble the drivetrain and found the auto transmission pan interferes with the middle crossmember! I had to cut out the middle of the crossmember to clear the pan and will be adding a strip below the pan. Then I found the engine contacts the steering gear so it mounts tilted, so I had to do some trimming. Is it me or what?

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Edited by hct728(Bob)
Posted (edited)

Body mounting mocked up, seems kinda low on the chassis to me. You can see where I removed the side moulding and rocker panel trim, a primer coat will reveal all mistakes. Also practicing posting from an iPad instead of my ancient computer, good to learn new tricks! Found I can just copy and paste the picture from an email, couldn’t be easier!

 

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Edited by hct728(Bob)
Posted
On 4/26/2021 at 1:50 PM, hct728(Bob) said:


Tried to assemble the drivetrain and found the auto transmission pan interferes with the middle crossmember! I had to cut out the middle of the crossmember to clear the pan and will be adding a strip below the pan. Then I found the engine contacts the steering gear so it mounts tilted, so I had to do some trimming. Is it me or what?

 

No, it's not just you. I remember having the very same problem when I build my Moebius 71 Ford Ranger

Excellent work on yours, can't wait to see more.

David G.

Posted (edited)

The plan now is to make the cab a Mercury, to go with the neat Mercury Electric decals that come in the kit. Working on some lettering decals for the hood, my first attempt at the artwork pictured! Tips or suggestions welcome!

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Edited by hct728(Bob)
  • Like 1
Posted

Got the hood hinged today, this simple hinge seems to work okay, bent so a bit of drag on the underhood ridges make it stray open by itself,  though I need to add some trim or something to make it look more realistic, maybe glue some plastic  shapes onto the wire to hide it

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  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

Splashed some paint on my pickup, though I had to re-do the rear of the box due to some grit in the paint, the wire I was using to suspend the part had some dried paint on it. Came out okay in the end...

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Note that I tried to make the dash more like a true stripped '67 by re-doing the heater controls, instrument cluster and adding a blank radio plate. Wanted to simplify the door panels too, but too hard to replicate the scribing so I'll stick with the later deluxe door panel

Edited by hct728(Bob)
Posted (edited)

Now working on decals for the instrument cluster, hood front and fender sides, with a couple options to try out, as well as my AMT Louisville build while I'm at it (Screen shot from MSWord)

 

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Edited by hct728(Bob)
Posted

Nice work on everything! It's nice to see someone else who still uses spray cans too. I love these old trucks, I drove a 67 F250 for years.

Posted (edited)

Thanks, Mark! I find spray cans are fine for most work, though an airbrush comes in handy for tight corners sometimes, and then I decant some paint by spraying into a paper funnel directed into an old Testors bottle and do the tight spots with the airbrush. Didn't need that this time, the spray went right into the inside corners of the box just fine! Was this really old WalMart paint I was using, sure looks like it

Edited by hct728(Bob)
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

My changes to the dash: heater controls changed to freestanding knobs, radio delete cover plate and simpler instrument cluster. Knobs and trim could be done better, trying to move it along though

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also added trim to the edges of the headliner by scribing a groove to glue 0.020” rod into

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Edited by hct728(Bob)
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Nice work.  Reminds me of the truck I drove back in the early 70's when I was stationed on Clark Air Force base in the Philippines.  I use to maintain the barrier systems on the flight line.

Posted

Currently installing the windows, and boy that windshield is a tight fit, I thought it was going to snap, but I put on my thin cotton gloves to keep it clean, held my breath and snapped it into place. Top and bottom fit okay, it’s the two side edges that fix it in place. Helps to do the black trim first, and some BMF on the inside edge of the black if you’re doing an upscale model. Now on to the rear window, which needed filing to fit in the hole, unless you test fit it before paint and enlarge the hole. After filing the flange looks wider so that should be shaved , and there is also a wide flange at the top that seems excessive so off it goes. Love the quality of the molding on these clear parts!

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