1950 Oldsmobile Club Coupe

[jjsipes]

Has anyone purchased and built Jimmy Flintstones 1950 Oldsmobile Club Coupe body (fastback)? I just ordered and recieved mine and while cleaning it up, I discovered the chassis pan and frame from the Revell 1950 Olds Coupe is to long. When I compared the 2 bodies, it appears the resin club coupe body is short in the doors. Has anyone else run into this. I really wanted to build the fast back but this has me perplexed as what to do. Tried to get some pictures to show. It appears that they used the Revell body and just modified the fastback but why would the body come up short in length?

[SSNJim]

My guess is that it is a modified 1951 Chevy Fleetline body and should use that chassis. Oldsmobiles have a longer wheelbase than Chevrolets. I would imagine when that body was mastered, the 1950 Olds kit was not available. 

[keyser]

Just shorten rear springs at front of leaves, and driveshaft.
That moves wheels forward in wheelwell without cutting frame  

Unless you will show it, ez to shorten wb. Looks close anyway. 

Edited September 16, 2021 by keyser

[jjsipes]

It looks like the body is about 1/16" to 1/8" short. Says to use the Revell Oldsmobile for donor. If you turn the body over, you can see where the Olds body was cut and assuming the Fleetline rear body was used. I don't know but a little disappointing either way. Just need to study everything to see which way to attack it.

[Mr. Metallic]

I'm not seeing the discrepancy between the bodies. The resin body is based on the Olds, so it doesn't make sense that it would now be too small to fit the Revell frame. Could you share pics of the frame/floor pan with the resin body to better illustrate where you are having issues? I'm not saying you're wrong, it just doesn't make sense.

[jjsipes]

Chassis is pushed back to where it belongs in body. As you can see, there is a gap at the firewall and the front apron pan is forward to far. There are notches in the upper front corners of the inner fenders that lock against the core support that is molded in the body. The notches are to far forward.. It's not much but it is mind boggling.

[jjsipes]

Here is a shot of a built Revell kit (mt fathers) with the resin body. I aligned the rear wheel openings to have the rear axle in place and look closely at the front wheel alignment.

[espo]

I built one of these Resin Fastbacks a couple of years ago. Some of the problems I ran into with the one I did had to do with the clearance in several areas between the Chassis plate and the Resin body. One of the areas can be seen in your picture showing bottom side with the chassis going into the body. The resin body is thicker on the inside so any place the chassis plate touches the inside of the body there will be fitment issues. Looks like you have already corrected the mounting in the front fender area. Another contact area that I found made it hard to adjust the chassis was the inside of the rear fenders where they curve toward the body on the leading edge. In the kit this also serves to retain the chassis plate, but with the resin body being thicker it distorts the body when you try and install the chassis.  The area of the chassis plate where the inner wheel wells will also need some trimming, again the narrower resin body. I must have pulled the two apart twenty times before I got it to fit the way I wanted. Another thought when you get to the interior. Your going from a short roof coupe to a longer sedan body style. In mine I moved the rear seat as far back as I could with the kits interior and then constructed the large rear package tray out of sheet plastic. I cut up a bunch of cards making a templet but it's not all that difficult. This does build into a great looking model and well worth the efforts.  

[Can-Con]

Resin shrinks. It sometimes happens to the best of them.

A buddy of mine bought resin bumpers for an original '61 Thunderbird he has. From Modelhaus. He didn't want to bother having the originals replated.

When they got here, the back one was 1/16" too narrow. It must have been copied from an original '61 as the '61 to '63 Thunderbirds all have unique tail light detail molded to the bumper. Each one is slightly different. He did get the correct one , matching his original, yet is was 1/16" narrower than the original. , , Shrinkage.

[Mr. Metallic]

On 9/17/2021 at 2:47 PM, Can-Con said:

Resin shrinks. It sometimes happens to the best of them.

A buddy of mine bought resin bumpers for an original '61 Thunderbird he has. From Modelhaus. He didn't want to bother having the originals replated.

When they got here, the back one was 1/16" too narrow. It must have been copied from an original '61 as the '61 to '63 Thunderbirds all have unique tail light detail molded to the bumper. Each one is slightly different. He did get the correct one , matching his original, yet is was 1/16" narrower than the original. , , Shrinkage.

I agree, but I've only ever seen it in the yellowish resin used by most casters. The near white resin (most notably used by Replicas and Miniatures of Maryland) i have never had a shrinkage issue. 

As David also noted, the thickness of the resin body will be a factor. This is a modern tooled kit by Revell, and the interface between the body and chassis assembly is pretty precise. Flintstones quality has improved considerably in the last 25 years since i first purchased his stuff, but he is still all about volume (that's how he keeps the cost down) so his bodies are a bit thicker than you're probably used to. The speed with which these are produced may also contribute to the shrinkage apparent here. I'm glad you brought this up because my friend performed a chopped top on one of these bodies for me, and I haven't gotten around to building it yet, so I'll have to pay special attention to the fitment.

[keyser]

[Fat Brian]

I've had the exact same thing happen with a Flintstone King Cobra body for the Revell Torino. It's too small in every direction, like it's 1/26 scale instead of 1/25.