Yet another Revell Model A '30 Coupe??? Sure, why not? -update 2/23/22

[Rocking Rodney Rat]

  On 2/8/2022 at 11:03 PM, chris chabre said:

coming together nicely!

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Thanks, Chris. I found a better grille shell and front radiator piece to use, minor detail.... -RRR

[Dave72]

Looking great! I love all of tips and techniques from your build. Nice work! 

[Rocking Rodney Rat]

  On 2/10/2022 at 2:16 AM, Dave72 said:

Looking great! I love all of tips and techniques from your build. Nice work! 

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Thanks for checking out my build. More to come..... -RRR

[Rocking Rodney Rat]

On to the engine!!! My good friend KK dropped a W motor (a Chevy 348 or later 409 cubic inch displacement big block distinct from the W shape of the heads) on me for use on this project. The bellhousing and transmission was jettisoned in favor of a T5. Here's some pix of the progress...

I'm using two of the 3x2 log manifolds from the Buick Nailhead out of the Revell Model A series. The side of the intakes that mate to the heads will be reconfigured to fit the W motor. 

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The valley pan out of the Revell Tony Nancy 22 Jr drag kit fits (close to) perfectly.

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I added attach points for the upper radiator hose and the breather tube on the front and the distributor in back. 

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Here's a pic of the triangulated pieces added to the bottom of the 3x2 intake (along with some putty yet to be sanded smooth) to mate to the heads.

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 A quick mock-up. The heads have been treated to Molotow for a reasonable chrome look. The intakes will set a tad higher once they're glued in place. 

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I'm making limefire style headers. I started with the headers out of the AMT Model T kit AMT. I snipped off the piece as shown, smoothed out the corner area and sanded off the chrome.

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Here's a mockup of how the headers will be made. The other three tubes are .070" styrene. Yes, I could have used the headers out of the SBC in the Revell Model A kits but they seem a little too skinny, especially for a big block. 

I cut a piece of sheet styrene to size and made a header flange. Next up, making the headers.

Thanks for looking.... -RRR

[Limeyglue]

The engine is looking great. Can't wait to see where you go with it.

[Kit Karson]

You never cease to amaze, Brother!  The choice of adapting the "W" with a 5ive Window Model A Coupe is sheer genius!  Then waking it up with a 6ix-pack backed by a T5... tell me again this is going to be street legal, right?  Or are you running the limefire headers straight with optional cut-outs and a spare set of cheater slicks in the boot?  An A with a Show & Go attitude with a jockey box full of pink slips and a trophy stuffed behind the seat.  A Saturday special ready to roll the dice at the next light or just pull away nice and slow... like a Kool Kat waiting for the real rumble!  -KK

ps I found this on the interweb and had to share it with you.  1958 Chevy 348 "W" built in 1/25th scale!

[Modelbuilder Mark]

I am really liking where this is going

 

[Rocking Rodney Rat]

  On 2/15/2022 at 4:39 PM, Modelbuilder Mark said:

I am really liking where this is going

 

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Thanks, Mark...trying to get it wrapped up soon... -RRR

[Rocking Rodney Rat]

A slight detour on the engine to re-do the grille shell and radiator. I found a '30 grille shell with a separate radiator while looking for a specific tonneau cover KK needs (still haven't found it, sorry bud).

The first attempt on the left, where I ground out the attached radiator, that left too much of a lip and set the radiator too deeply into the shell, usable but not ideal. The new shell with radiator on the right, with less of a depth between radiator and shell. Subtle, but much better...

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Here's a comparison to the chopped shell on the left as compared to the stock height shell. Not much taken out, but with a channeled body it makes the proportions much more pleasing to the eye. It's eyeball engineering...

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I also made the back end of the floor. This took me a few hours of cutting, fitting, modifying and futzing...I glued in in place as I didn't think I could get it in place without mishaps once it was all painted up. That should work okay. Way too much time spent on an area that will hardly be seen...

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I added a gas tank that's supposed to be partially sunk into the floor.

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The gas tank is kinda hard to see now, but once painted silver against the planned green body color it will look good. It's a tight fit against the frame...

More later, campers...... -RRR

 

[David G.]

You're taking us on quite an adventure with this one! 

I'm really enjoying the ride.

David G.

 

[Rocking Rodney Rat]

  On 2/18/2022 at 11:40 AM, David G. said:

You're taking us on quite an adventure with this one! 

I'm really enjoying the ride.

David G.

 

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I'm glad you're along for the ride. A few more destinations before we reach our journey, but we're getting there.... -RRR

[Russell C]

  On 2/13/2022 at 1:38 PM, Rocking Rodney Rat said:

On to the engine!!! My good friend KK dropped a W motor (a Chevy 348 or later 409 cubic inch displacement big block  ...

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  On 2/13/2022 at 5:32 PM, Kit Karson said:

... The choice of adapting the "W" with a 5ive Window Model A Coupe is sheer genius!  ....

ps I found this on the interweb and had to share it with you.  1958 Chevy 348 "W" built in 1/25th scale!

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Robin's egg blue means it came from the AMT '58 Impala (unless other molds using that engine apply), which the box claims is a 409. A few days back I was pondering how to do evil things to the blue-molded kit / engine I have, and was doing a search of 1:1 348 / 409 engine images, along with a search for 1:25 versions within MCM here --- the photo KK found is from no less than our MrObsessive's '58 AMT Impala convertible!

 

[Rocking Rodney Rat]

I'm starting to put the exhaust together. I figured the best way get them right is to build them on the car. To that end I white glued (think Elmer's) the header flanges to the heads and then glued the engine to the frame. As you can see I used a rubber band to keep the body attached to the frame. I drilled out the skinny end of the primary tube and inserted a pin glued into the hole. I drilled a hole in the header flange and inserted the pin. I next attached a blob of Blu Tack https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blu_Tack (if you don't know about this miracle putty, get some. Great for mockups and it easily peels off with no residue. Use it over and over) to the big end of the header and the body. This gives me the ability to figure out how far up and down and in and out the header tube should be in relation to the body. When that's all figured out I will first glue the primary tube to the flange with super glue and then measure and cut the other three tubes and glue them on while the Blu Tack holds the main tube in place. Turn the car around and do it again. When that's all done, dunk the frame and engine in water to soften up and remove the white glue. 

That's a bit too low....

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That looks better....

More later.... -RRR

[Kit Karson]

Headers Up, Brother!  Level with the heads... straight out!! -KK

Edited February 24, 2022 by Kit Karson
Text correction...