Pg265 Posted October 1, 2022 Share Posted October 1, 2022 (edited) Good morning, Well, let me introduce the superb AAR Eagle Weslake! It changes from red, but orange and green were not that far away .. the red (s) either either! The kit is not more complicated than that, but the installation of the rivets promises to be... sporty and time-consuming. I started by cleaning the parts of the bathtub / chassis, the interior of which is almost invisible once the tub is in place. Only a small part on each side is polished. The assembly is, as often, carried out by welding. The main parts of the V12 are also assembled And we start to put a little color The body parts are prepared, adjusted and the locations of the threaded fasteners for solid fastening. And then, we had to get there, the hull is pierced (0.35) in anticipation of riveting ... Resin rivets with semi-round head of 0.5 for a tail of 0.3. There are many!! Riveting is ... DONE !! I decided to use rivets of different sizes for different reasons. For the lateral parts, rivets of 0.5 for the most part, of 0.4 for the outline of the hatches and of 0.8 in aluminum for closing them. for the upper part of the hull, 0.4 convex / flat head. These are used for: - appearance / aesthetics, a kind of scale effect as with painting, - ease of applying decals. FYI, there are 1620 ... rivets. The body parts have been primed and, for some, painted or partially painted The engine has progressed well I took the opportunity to work a little on the exhausts and their pronounced traces of heating. Temporary assembly. The gearbox is fitted with pretty accessories which I decided to modify: The filter holder, one of the fuel pumps and its filter. The oil filter covers are redone in aluminum, as is the crankcase of the fuel pump motor. Machined aluminum and brass hardware is added to provide a little detail to these subsets. As with the exhaust manifolds, the filters are chemically burnished, then polished and slightly "worn". Here is the set with the gearbox, painted with a mixture of Gun Metal and semi Gloss Black, 53 and 85 Humbrol. Make way for the dashboard. It is primed and painted in my beloved Humbrol 85, a little more diluted than usual and applied in thin coats a little more diffuse to make it slightly less satin. The counters have their strapping polished. The decals installed will be covered with "glass" cut to the punch for more realism. Small machined switches from Top Studio and a few instructions complete the package. The steering wheel is prepared in the same way as the dashboard. The original mold is removed and the Allen hardware and its washers installed instead. A passage of oil allows to shade the colors. Finally, the tank connection pipe is polished and painted with Candy Electric Blue ZP. Still progressing. The steering rack will be installed later .. just like the radiator. It is modified, as well as the pipes connecting to it, in order to weld the fluid inlets / outlets on the body of the radiator. I brought a little detail with the lateral perforated reinforcements and the manufacturer's plate. The interior is quickly fitted with a lead wire to simulate the cooling circuit behind the grid and fill the void. The wheel disc is primed and painted, then finalized, a machined valve installed. Everything is assembled to the machined rim. Masking of the bodywork parts before the passage of the sublime blue whose glitter base is extremely fine. The parts exposed and presented in a white assembly The hubs are detailed, primed and painted he original discs are decked out with important grooves that I don't like ... at all! As for my other models on which I reproduce the scratches of the discs, I made a tool allowing me to maintain them. The shoulders must be thin, both in diameter and in thickness, in order to be able to machine most of the disc. The small "jaws" on the second image are those used on a 312F1 for example. They then went on the lathe to give them a better appearance. Installed on a wheel for control: could be worse. The body of the rear shock absorbers is hidden and then painted. The springs receive a layer of gloss black. The radiator is painted and the tin solders reproduced according to the images I have. The dashboard is finished, wired and the windows installed on the meters. I did not really manage to take a photo that shows it correctly ... Sorry. Last masking step before varnish A shot of white Disassembly of the parts and installation on their support for the varnish step and presentation in the box so as not to be bothered during this step. Gravity (EU) sprayed, fresh (Flat Pattern 0.3 Meng) It dries quietly It's dry!! I couldn’t really resist a little "Test Fit" For fun: I made a small sheet of carbon this morning to dress small aluminum plates. They help me to present the pieces for photos, supports for models ... And, in the afternoon, I decided to make one to present the Eagle with the extra decals and old dry transfers. It's funny, it relaxes and above all I like it! I may shoot a layer of clear coat on it tomorrow to standardize everything and protect transfers, more fragile than decals ... Quite a few tests for the parts to be assembled on the bodywork elements today. The inside of the nose is painted mat black and the decals installed. The reinforcement plates of the anchorages of the tie rods are painted in Polished Alu Metal Cote with a paintbrush and slightly polished. The tank caps are modified and fitted with machined banjo connectors. It remains to tweak them a little with oils. Finally, as mentioned yesterday, I varnished the small presentation plate. It will be used to brighten up the table during exhibitions! It remains to polish the edge of the 2024 Alu plate. Connecting session. The gear box is now installed on the engine. Done for rear with engine/oil filters, fuel connections, underside tubing from engine to radiator... Next step will be the front radiator hoses and ducts installation and the rear drive train. Well, of course, I lost a part ... Not that small and yet nowhere to be found after a good part of the evening and the morning... The part, the lower left anchor of the rear axle push bar (or tie rod ...), has been redone. I quickly turned a piece of 2x2.25, glued to a plastic card base. A 0.8 stainless steel tenon and a resin bolt to finish and install. Quite a few mods and parts for the upper arms to do what I wanted, but it's done. Sorry for the quality of the photos, but the episode "Carpet Monster" (and I don't even have a carpet!) Made me a little ... irritated. I hope it will fit anyway. Pipes, ducts and radiator connected and installed. Lower suspension arms and steering rack in place. More soon. Pascal Edited October 1, 2022 by Pg265 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stinkybritches Posted October 1, 2022 Share Posted October 1, 2022 I feel like I watched a real race car being built. Very nice. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Smith Posted October 1, 2022 Share Posted October 1, 2022 This little gem, is amazing! you have been a busy person! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pierre Rivard Posted October 1, 2022 Share Posted October 1, 2022 Your modeling skills are unbelievable. I think I've gone back and forth your slides a dozen times. Spectacular! Going back to the table and looking at my stuff... depressing. I need a new hobby. Whisky perhaps? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pg265 Posted October 2, 2022 Author Share Posted October 2, 2022 (edited) Bonjour, Thank you very much for your kind comments Mates. A bit of cleaning in the working area... Front end progress with radiator mounts and air scoops. Rear completed with anti roll bar and exhausts. It begins to take shape. I finished the rear brakes this evening. Everything is modified and scratched to match my doc. The cockpit is finished and the upper part of the hull will be glued. I also added the welds at the junction of the exhaust pipes and the 3 in 1. Then we have to deal with the front ... Last details added ... I can call this one done today. Sorry for the poor quality pictures... Pascal Edited October 2, 2022 by Pg265 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Smith Posted October 2, 2022 Share Posted October 2, 2022 Fantastic! It’s a beautiful car, exceptional work sir! 😉😁 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pierre Rivard Posted October 3, 2022 Share Posted October 3, 2022 Absolument magnifique. A perfect rendition of what may be the most beautiful F1 ever. Beautiful metalized finishes with just a touch of heat stress on the exhaust, the tires are perfectly weathered, I could go on an on. Thank you for sharing this masterpiece! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pg265 Posted October 3, 2022 Author Share Posted October 3, 2022 Good evening, Thank you very much Mates. The last pics of the wonderful Eagle Weslake. Pascal 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbowser Posted October 3, 2022 Share Posted October 3, 2022 Outstanding replica of a racing icon, well done! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete J. Posted October 4, 2022 Share Posted October 4, 2022 Beautiful work!! One question. That is the most realistic heat staining on the exhaust I have ever seen. Would you mind sharing your process? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pg265 Posted October 4, 2022 Author Share Posted October 4, 2022 Hi, Thank you very much for your nice comments! @Pete J.: well… once you know how to do!…🙄 For me, one of the main feature of the Eagle are its stunning chrome exhaust tubes. There are so visible and offer a great contrast with the blue. So, as I wanted to depict as well as possible the real thing, I thought it wouldn’t be stupid to use the same material: Steel. I study few good pictures of the real car and just try to replicate the heat stains using a mini torch on my steel tubes. I first made a first try on one to see how the color changed around the red hot area, then try to be as close as possible of the real thing. That’s all! Just steel tube, a mini torch and great pics! 🥶 Nothing more, nothing difficult! Pascal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sflam123 Posted October 5, 2022 Share Posted October 5, 2022 An absolutely stunning build!! This is almost a work of art. You have outstanding skills. Beautiful work. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete J. Posted October 5, 2022 Share Posted October 5, 2022 13 hours ago, Pg265 said: Hi, Thank you very much for your nice comments! @Pete J.: well… once you know how to do!…🙄 For me, one of the main feature of the Eagle are its stunning chrome exhaust tubes. There are so visible and offer a great contrast with the blue. So, as I wanted to depict as well as possible the real thing, I thought it wouldn’t be stupid to use the same material: Steel. I study few good pictures of the real car and just try to replicate the heat stains using a mini torch on my steel tubes. I first made a first try on one to see how the color changed around the red hot area, then try to be as close as possible of the real thing. That’s all! Just steel tube, a mini torch and great pics! 🥶 Nothing more, nothing difficult! Pascal Pascal - Thanks for telling me. No wonder it looks so real. They are real. I thought you had figured out how to paint them! I have seen so many airbrushed exhausts the just look terrible, I was hoping you had cracked the code. Oh, well, back to the bench! Thanks. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightliner59 Posted October 5, 2022 Share Posted October 5, 2022 On 10/1/2022 at 6:30 AM, Pg265 said: FYI, there are 1620 ... rivets. You sir, deserve a round of applause! It sounds like a tedious and time-consuming task, and you made it through. I love that you varied the sizes of the rivets. It looks great, as does the entire project. Very well done! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pg265 Posted October 5, 2022 Author Share Posted October 5, 2022 Good evening, Thank you very much for all your kind comments! I’m glad you enjoyed the WIP and like the result. That really was a pleasure to build this one. I looove the car, Dan Gurney is one of my all time favorite pilot and an awesome guy, the kit is a marvel… What else?! Thanks once again. Pascal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ea0863 Posted March 17, 2023 Share Posted March 17, 2023 I was searching for riveting, and ran across this thread. OMG! You must have thousands of rivets on this model, and an equal number of hours poured into its making! Just wonderful 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted March 18, 2023 Share Posted March 18, 2023 Yes - well done - are you using the Meng printed rivets? They appear to have very short stems - how do you cut them fr the base and what tool do you use to handle them ?? ??? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pg265 Posted March 18, 2023 Author Share Posted March 18, 2023 Hi, Thank you! Different brands, shapes and sizes of resin and metal rivets were used on this one… and on all my other builds. I used rivets from Calibre35, MasterClub, Scale Hardware. 0.5, 0.4, spherical and flat spherical. I use a thin tweezer to hold and insert rivets in their holes, glue them on the backside with CA glue and cut the back with a S&M 15T blade. An Xacto #11 is used to separate the Calibre35 rivets from the base/sprue, as well as those from MFH which were used for the 256F1. Pascal 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted March 18, 2023 Share Posted March 18, 2023 Thats good technique - using the capalary effect of CA by gluing from the back side of the panel - well done …. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.