Nostalgia Fuel Dragster--Blower Manifold (01/28/23)

[Straightliner59]

I got the tabs made and soldered, that support the puke tank. I used a .060" wide strip of brass (.008"). I bent it across the chassis, in the places the tabs needed to be, trimmed the ends, then soldered the two strips in place, across the chassis. I then cut the mid sections out of the two strips, leaving four tabs. I sanded them to clean them up. Next, I'll drill the tabs on the puke tank (I'm going to cut off the center ear, on each side), and use those holes to drill the tabs on the chassis.

I am going to narrow the flange around the perimeter of the electronics box--it just looks too bulky, the way it is. I found a schematic for the Racepak, online. I'll use that to properly wire it up. Questions, critiques and other comments are always welcomed. Thanks for looking!

[Ian McLaren]

Another fine update, and another trick learned, the way you made the brackets for the puke tank is so easy and much more accurate than trying to herd 4 individual brackets into position.  I can't believe I never thought of that. Thanks Daniel.

[AmericanMuscleFan]

Nice work Daniel, your threads are always a source of smart building ideas and this one is no exception, the brackets are another good example! ?

[Straightliner59]

20 hours ago, Ian McLaren said:

Another fine update, and another trick learned, the way you made the brackets for the puke tank is so easy and much more accurate than trying to herd 4 individual brackets into position.  I can't believe I never thought of that. Thanks Daniel.

I can't believe I didn't think of it, sooner!? It could not have been easier! I have wrestled and herded way too many of them. Thanks, kindly, my friend!

14 hours ago, AmericanMuscleFan said:

Nice work Daniel, your threads are always a source of smart building ideas and this one is no exception, the brackets are another good example! ?

Thank you, Francis. I am so close to having the chassis ready for paint. I thought I was going to get there, tonight. I have one tab to re-solder, and one chassis upright that I spent about an hour-and-a-half, trying to get replaced, before I had to make myself walk away. Grr! I made a new pinion support, and got that installed. It was frustrating to walk away, because I'm so close, but, sometimes...

[Straightliner59]

I think I have a completed chassis! I say "think", because I'm giving serious consideration to adding front wings to the sides of the nose. Those will require mounting points. While I love my resistance soldering unit, the good ol' Weller 40W iron works best for things like adding tabs, and other small pieces. You can see the new pinion support. In a couple of other photos, I can see that it's a tad crooked, so, it'll get straightened out. The original piece simply met the frame tube, thus made for a very weak joint. I added some body to this one, and filed it to fit between the chassis tubes, and over the cross-tube. That created a much more solid joint. Anyway, once I've added the front wing mounts, I'll be cleaning everything up, and shooting primer on it! Your comments, critiques and questions are welcomed. Thanks for looking!

 

Edited February 25, 2023 by Straightliner59

[Straightliner59]

Since I was considering the front wings, I decided to make a test piece, to see how it looks. Yeah! Now, to make the actual parts...

[Tortuga Kustomz]

no matter how many times i see your chassis work, i always find something new, just love this job man

[Straightliner59]

2 hours ago, Tortuga Kustomz said:

no matter how many times i see your chassis work, i always find something new, just love this job man

I appreciate that, Marcos! It's getting closer!

I got a bit more done, today. I made the radius rods using .052" aluminum armature wire. I just recently found this stuff. It's great, because it's dead-soft, and round. I cut it to length, then roll it under a steel block to straighten it. Then, I bore the ends to accept the handrail stanchions. I also began work on the front wings. The mount on the chassis is in place. Here, you can see the end plates, and the sheet for the skins. Once they're made, I will install the body panels one final time, and set it to "on the wheels" height, to get a look at the overall appearance, and finish the panels for under/behind the nose. Then, I can finally get some paint on it.

Also shown are some tools I made for bending radii on panels--or, in this case, airfoils. They're sheet brass with tubing soldered, so that the metal, and the form can be placed in the vise, and the panel bent over the tubing. Tubing sizes are 1/16", 3/32" and 1/8", from bottom, to top. They've come in very handy, many times, over the years. Thanks for looking!

[Ian McLaren]

The chassis is oh so close, exciting stuff.  You mentioned a resistance welder, I've been considering one. What are the pros and cons of these units?

[AmericanMuscleFan]

Great job as usual Daniel !  Good trick but I didn't know about aluminum armature wire, do you find any advantages (besides price?) to using this material instead of K&S or Albion aluminum tubes?

With all due respect, I don't want to answer Ian's question about the resistance welder for you, but for me, one of the main advantages is the fact that you can weld small parts close together without the adjacent welds coming apart from the heat generated by a soldering iron or torch.  The price of the unit and accessories is a disadvantage unless you are patient and wait to find a bargain on an online auction like I did.

[Straightliner59]

21 hours ago, Ian McLaren said:

The chassis is oh so close, exciting stuff.  You mentioned a resistance welder, I've been considering one. What are the pros and cons of these units?

It is getting exciting!

What I like the most about the resistance unit, is that it's set up, and ready to go. All I need to do it step on a switch! When all I had was the Weller iron, I would dread getting it out, plugging it in, finding some place to set the holder, and waiting for it to heat. It's much easier to talk myself into soldering something, now. As Francis mentioned, it heats the area quickly, so there's less likely to be damage to previous joints. I have only used mine with the tweezers handpiece, as I haven't got around to building the electrode/ground clamp setup, yet. I have a second power unit, so, once the other setup is built, I'll likely just leave them both at the ready.

That said, I did have an easier time making some repairs with my Weller iron than the resistance unit.

20 hours ago, AmericanMuscleFan said:

Great job as usual Daniel !  Good trick but I didn't know about aluminum armature wire, do you find any advantages (besides price?) to using this material instead of K&S or Albion aluminum tubes?

With all due respect, I don't want to answer Ian's question about the resistance welder for you, but for me, one of the main advantages is the fact that you can weld small parts close together without the adjacent welds coming apart from the heat generated by a soldering iron or torch.  The price of the unit and accessories is a disadvantage unless you are patient and wait to find a bargain on an online auction like I did.

Thank you, Francis! I just discovered the armature wire, recently. I would say that price is my main reason for using it, although it does come in sizes that aren't available from either of the other sources. I use tubing I have on hand, when the size I need is available to me. I have several lengths of K&S/Special Shapes 1/32" and 3/64" brass tube that get used fairly regularly.

I think you answered Ian's question pretty much as I would have! I have two power units. One has two power levels that are changed, dependent on which plugs are used.  The other has a built-in rheostat. Both of mine are Wassco Glo-Melt units. They're made by the same company that makes the American Beauty brand. The power units can fairly regularly be found for less than $100, used. I put my first unit together for right about $100, as I found a killer price on a tweezers handset! I think I paid about $10 for the foot switch. For scratchbuilders like us, I'd say it's more than a worthwhile investment. So, there you go, Ian! Keep your eyes open, and piece it together. I think it's $400-$500 for a new American Beauty unit, if that's what you prefer, but, I would recommend making the investment!

[Straightliner59]

Front wings are made, and mounting is figured out. I think they'll look pretty good!

[Straightliner59]

Got them mounted! I think they look sweet!  I also trimmed the body tin, beneath the nose. I have an idea for the tow hook I'm going to try. As always, your questions and comments are welcomed. And appreciated. Thanks for looking!

[Joe Nunes]

I am really enjoying this build!  Always some amazing model construction coming to light, and in metal yet. ??

Joe

[Ian McLaren]

Looking great Ireally like the wings.

[AmericanMuscleFan]

5 hours ago, Straightliner59 said:

Got them mounted! I think they look sweet!

You bet!  I love them too! ?

[Straightliner59]

15 hours ago, Joe Nunes said:

I am really enjoying this build!  Always some amazing model construction coming to light, and in metal yet. ??

Joe

Thanks so much, Joe! I have a blast, working the metal--especially sheet. It's great, having a place to share our work!

15 hours ago, Ian McLaren said:

Looking great Ireally like the wings.

Thank you, Ian. In researching them, I noticed something I hadn't, before. The front wings on these cars are much flatter, than the rear ones are. I still have no idea what colour I'm going to paint this thing!?

13 hours ago, AmericanMuscleFan said:

You bet!  I love them too! ?

Thank you, my friend! It's getting ever closer to paint!

[Straightliner59]

I made a leather pad for the seat. It's 1.5 oz. bookbinding leather. Foil strip inserted for effect. I'm not sure whether I posted photos of the floorboard, yet. I embossed the bead rolls a bit deeper using an awl, even if I did!? The rectangular piece is the new lid for the electronics box. It is currently clamped a atop a piece of wood on the mill. Thanks for looking!

[Straightliner59]

I set up the mill to open the interior of the electronics box lid frame. It could have easily been done, the old-fashioned way, but, since I am making a point to use the mill, more frequently...I used the 1-2-3 block from the set-up blocks I bought a while back to elevate the wood (I need to get some milling plate), and cut it out with a 1/32" end mill. The nails in these photos will be replaced with thumb-turn fasteners made from Tichy Train Group rivets. I will probably add some faux "blind" rivets to the frame, as well. I also made new tabs for the puke tank. The old ones just looked to bulky. I just keep picking away at stuff that needs to be done, while I procrastinate about the final cleanup on the chassis? Thanks for looking!

 

 

[Straightliner59]

I got the dash cut, and cut out the opening for the data readout LCD. It matches the dimensions for a Racepak model I found on a speed company website. It'll be brought to a more proper thickness, once I start working on the backside of it. I've also found a schematic to wire it with. It really puts the top of the dash way up there, but, since it's no taller than the windscreen, it should be fine. That said, I found one by another company that's only roughly 4.5" tall, as opposed to the 9.5"-ish of the Racepak unit. There's a chance I may make another one!? 

[Ian McLaren]

I really like the dash and Racepak set up, nice work!  Are you going to re-profile  the lower edge for clearance to allow room for the driver to get his legs in and out, it looks pretty tight.  The Racepak is certainly the most recognizable unit out there and it is up where it would be a great added detail, especially with the wiring.

[Straightliner59]

1 hour ago, Ian McLaren said:

I really like the dash and Racepak set up, nice work!  Are you going to re-profile  the lower edge for clearance to allow room for the driver to get his legs in and out, it looks pretty tight.  The Racepak is certainly the most recognizable unit out there and it is up where it would be a great added detail, especially with the wiring.

Thank you, Ian! That's all I needed to hear. I will stick with this one! I will be trimming off the bottom, next. One thing I am going to change is, instead of a lever to shut off the fuel, I am going to make a t-handle that comes through the dash panel. It already lines up perfectly with the tab for the cable. Thanks for your comments, my friend.

[Straightliner59]

I trimmed the dash (I am going to do a tad more, I think). The two holes on the left will be the controls for the hi-lo idle control, and the hi-speed leanout. The one on the right, for the fuel shutoff. I think I will use the black pins for the former. Still planning on a "t"-handle for the latter (This one might be a tad out of scale!?). I added an "eyebrow" to the dash module. There are also a few details to add to the back of the unit, mostly involved with wiring it. 

I am about to knock off any tarnish on the chassis, using an abrasive rubber cone, and do any final cleanup I find, then the chassis will be off to the paint shop to be made to look like unpainted steel. I am thinking of gluing some test pieces, to see if I can figure out a way I am comfortable "discoloring" the welds. I'm considering making the inspection panel on the bellhousing removeable, and putting in a clutch assembly. I probably won't, but, it's been considered.

As always, comments, critiques and questions are welcomed. Thanks for looking!

[cobraman]

This is going to be one fine looking dragster model ! Great work !

[Straightliner59]

2 hours ago, cobraman said:

This is going to be one fine looking dragster model ! Great work !

Thank you, Ray. I appreciate that!