Review of Revell's new chrome spray paint

[Dpate]

1 hour ago, ctruss53 said:

That turned out really well. Thank you for the photos.

I had bad luck with Spaz Stix, maybe because I used their backer.

The product that has worked best for me so car has been SMS Hyperchrome.  You can't handle it a lot, but you can handle it a little bit. And what is best is you actually buff it out with a dry cloth to get best results. I like this because I can handle it a bit to assemble it, then buff it out when I am doing handling it.

On this hot rodded Mercedes engine, all the chrome is SMS Hyperchrome. When applied per their instructions it comes out hazy. But you can lightly handle it to assemble things. Then you buff out the haze with a dry cloth.

 

Yeah I could never get there backer to gloss up like Alclads. But this link this guy shows results from over spraying spaz stix to where it looks like frosted silver, and polishing it out. 
https://www.diecastxchange.com/threads/spaz-stix-chrome-paint-this-stuff-is-amazing.219961/

Edited June 22, 2023 by Dpate

[ctruss53]

29 minutes ago, Dpate said:

Yeah I could never get there backer to gloss up like Alclads. But this link this guy shows results from over spraying spaz stix to where it looks like frosted silver, and polishing it out. 
https://www.diecastxchange.com/threads/spaz-stix-chrome-paint-this-stuff-is-amazing.219961/

I'll check that out.

The reason you have to buff out SMS Hyperchrome is because they instruct you to apply it in very light dust coats and build it up until everything is coated evenly. The problem is using dust coats, the finish is not smooth. It comes out looking hazy or dusty. But they say this is normal. Just wait a day and then buff off the particles that were already dry when they landed and the shine will come out.

It was strange to do that, but it worked.

[Dpate]

15 minutes ago, ctruss53 said:

I'll check that out.

The reason you have to buff out SMS Hyperchrome is because they instruct you to apply it in very light dust coats and build it up until everything is coated evenly. The problem is using dust coats, the finish is not smooth. It comes out looking hazy or dusty. But they say this is normal. Just wait a day and then buff off the particles that were already dry when they landed and the shine will come out.

It was strange to do that, but it worked.

Yeah that’s how I always did Alclad. Buff off the dust, and the shine would come through. 

[Dpate]

So sprayed the revell chrome and it’s very good. 30 mins baking and it’s pretty durable no finger prints etc. the cab came out little hazy cause needed another pass, but I wasn’t trying to waste it, and wasn’t sure how far to push it. The next piece looks how it should cause I did the proper amount of passes. Works good out the can, but probably recommended warming it up. Id recommend decanting it though to save money as mines is off gazing as we speak bubbling like a volcano lol. I’m letting bake more to test durability. 

Edited June 22, 2023 by Dpate

[ctruss53]

41 minutes ago, Dpate said:

So sprayed the revell chrome and it’s very good. 30 mins baking and it’s pretty durable no finger prints etc. the cab came out little hazy cause needed another pass, but I wasn’t trying to waste it, and wasn’t sure how far to push it. The next piece looks how it should cause I did the proper amount of passes. Works good out the can, but probably recommended warming it up. Id recommend decanting it though to save money as mines is off gazing as we speak bubbling like a volcano lol. I’m letting bake more to test durability. 

Baking?

What are you doing after you paint?

[peteski]

6 hours ago, ctruss53 said:

I mean by your logic paint is just paint. Enamels, acrylics, lacquers, they are all just paint. But good luck getting some of them not to react with others.

Not my logic.  I just stated what coatings (since you objected to "paint") all consist of. I never mentioned anything about compatibility, just used general terms like "solvent" "pigment" and "binder".  The differences you cite are due to different chemical properties of binders and solvents used in various coatings.  Some solvents are more aggressive than others, and some are totally inert (like water). Binders can be various resins (urethane, acrylic, etc.). I agree that there is a large variety of coatings (paints) available.  I never stated that they were all compatible.

Edited June 22, 2023 by peteski

[Dpate]

1 hour ago, ctruss53 said:

Baking?

What are you doing after you paint?

Just a term used for drying paint in with heat lol in my case dehydrator. 

[ctruss53]

Just now, Dpate said:

Just a term used for drying paint in with heat lol in my case dehydrator. 

Yeah, that is what I thought. I was attempting to ask what you use.

Have you had good success with a dehydrator?
What dehydrator do you use?
Have you had any problems with it? I have heard horror stories about melting and warping parts.

[Dpate]

8 minutes ago, ctruss53 said:

Yeah, that is what I thought. I was attempting to ask what you use.

Have you had good success with a dehydrator?
What dehydrator do you use?
Have you had any problems with it? I have heard horror stories about melting and warping parts.

Only issue I ever had was with micro mark dehydrator. There’s designed so the heat rises, and I had a part too close to the top, and it warped a little. It wasn’t digital either, but analog so had to use a separate temp gauge. It was almost $200. The one I’ve been using ever since has been the one in the picture that I got off Amazon for like $80 when it was on sale. It rotates heat 360 degrees cause it’s made for cooking food. Always do 115f , and I’ve never had a single issue at all with any plastic or paint. It’s also digital, and has safety features like auto shut off when time is up etc. just have to be careful if you use the Tamiya paint stand for car bodies. If it’s spread too tight the heat can cause it to bow out. But to over come that just keep the springs loose, and use tape to hold onto the inside. 

Edited June 22, 2023 by Dpate

[1972coronet]

The Revell Chrome Aerosol looks promising. IMO, it seems to replicate polished/anodised stainless steel quite well -- think : windscreen of, say, the MPC 1968 Coronet Convertible. 

Pretty darned close to 'plating', but without the inherent 'depth' which vacuum plating provides (e.g., bumpers). 

Thanks to all whom have provided exhibitions of the Revell Chrome paint !

[Dpate]

2 minutes ago, 1972coronet said:

The Revell Chrome Aerosol looks promising. IMO, it seems to replicate polished/anodised stainless steel quite well -- think : windscreen of, say, the MPC 1968 Coronet Convertible. 

Pretty darned close to 'plating', but without the inherent 'depth' which vacuum plating provides (e.g., bumpers). 

Thanks to all whom have provided exhibitions of the Revell Chrome paint !

Definitely gonna do more test using the airbrush once it’s done gassing off. The cab would have turnt out better, but I was scared of how far to push it, and I suck with aerosol cans lol. Just from the other pics alone I say it’s worth the money, and considering AK super chrome was $30 for 60ml bottle. 

[1972coronet]

1 minute ago, Dpate said:

Definitely gonna do more test using the airbrush once it’s done gassing off. The cab would have turnt out better, but I was scared of how far to push it, and I suck with aerosol cans lol. Just from the other pics alone I say it’s worth the money, and considering AK super chrome was $30 for 60ml bottle. 

I'm so used to aerosol/spray painting -- that's my comfort zone (haha). I'm not averse to airbrushing, it's just not a feasible arrangement for me as it stands (I live in an apartment, so a compressor wouldn't gel with my fellow inmates neighbours). 

Oh, well... some day. 

Thanks again for sharing your efforts and results !

[Dpate]

So went ahead of myself and airbrushed the revell even though should have waited lol. The first pics are revell and I also re did AK super chrome those are the next pictures. The cab I sprayed AK super chrome on top of revell no issues. They almost smell exactly the same even though one suppose to be acrylic lacquer, and one permanent ink. 
EDIT: The revel stuff is definitely different than the AK is. The revel was basically try to the touch after 5 mins in the heat, and the AK was still tacky where it left good fingerprints. The revel is better durability wise too, as it took whole lotta rubbing with a cloth to get it to lose its chrome look, and it was still shiny. So I think @ 15 PSI instead of 20PSI, and even longer to cure revel might even be even more durable. Even as the revell stuff sits it has a multi layer separation, as the AK stuff doesn’t it stays the same, and doesn’t need to be shaken.

These are AK

Edited June 22, 2023 by Dpate

[Can-Con]

Looks like your having great success airbrushing the Revell product, Dusty.

Are you thinning it and if so, with what?

[Dpate]

6 minutes ago, Can-Con said:

Looks like your having great success airbrushing the Revell product, Dusty.

Are you thinning it and if so, with what?

Na no thinning. Stuff acts like and kinda behaves like AK super chrome. Has to go on heavy, but self levels nice, and definitely doesn’t like .2 needle. It’s too narrow, and likes the .5 needle and nozzle as it’s a larger spray.  If not you’ll fight the frosty silver trail with each pass hard to explain. Basically have to be pretty close, heavy coats but not so heavy that it runs, and it self levels nice. 

[Can-Con]

28 minutes ago, Dpate said:

Na no thinning. Stuff acts like and kinda behaves like AK super chrome. Has to go on heavy, but self levels nice, and definitely doesn’t like .2 needle. It’s too narrow, and likes the .5 needle and nozzle as it’s a larger spray.  If not you’ll fight the frosty silver trail with each pass hard to explain. Basically have to be pretty close, heavy coats but not so heavy that it runs, and it self levels nice. 

Cool. I tried airbrushing it once last week and it didn't work out for me as good as strait from the can but I'll give it another try following your example, hopefully mine will turn out as well as yours did.

[Michael jones]

I think the pictures really don't mean much. They just show its "chrome like". Durability is the real test. 

[Dpate]

10 hours ago, Can-Con said:

Cool. I tried airbrushing it once last week and it didn't work out for me as good as strait from the can but I'll give it another try following your example, hopefully mine will turn out as well as yours did.

I’m still practicing with it myself on actual parts. The over spray gets on the rest as you’re painting, and it messes up the finish. So then you’re going back over it and end up getting it too thick. Thinking about trying my PS 290 with its large fan pattern. Maybe just need little more practice to get that one and done coat or faster passes. After decanting the stuff it was about 50ml worth of paint, and I’m down to 40ml now from doing test etc. 

Edited June 23, 2023 by Dpate

[Ace-Garageguy]

1 hour ago, Dpate said:

I’m still practicing with it myself on actual parts...

Thanks for all the photos and the descriptions of what you've done. Most helpful.

[Dpate]

So I did a small comparison on an old piece with spaz stix. Spaz stix on the right, and revell chrome on the left along with the issue I’ve been having with it. Used a .2 for this test, but the revell issue stays the same with any size. It can be easy to overcome on large parts etc, but with bumbers or grills it’s an issue. It’s an issue because the over spray creates that silver frost causing you to go back over it, and then before you know it details are flooded. So probably best to just keep the revell canned unless I’m just doing something completely wrong. But if the junk piece was prepped properly spaz stix would look even better done over AK satin enamel gloss black. Spaz stix is amazing stuff, and $13 a bottle, and very durable, and done right it’s the tits man. This was baked @115f for 10mins, and I was able to buff the dust off. 

Edited June 23, 2023 by Dpate

[Dpate]

Some chrome powder mgm. This stuff is bonkers. 

Edited June 24, 2023 by Dpate

[Dpate]

So I did another test with powder, and I know this isn’t revell but yeah. I did test over light pearl blue by Tamiya with clear coat. Only blue I had, but the results are a brighter chrome look. If you’re wanting a black chrome just check out this bumper I now got to redo lol. Top of the spoon was left white, but it didn’t chrome up too good. 

Edited June 25, 2023 by Dpate

[bisc63]

23 hours ago, Dpate said:

Some chrome powder mgm.

Pardon my ignorance, but what exactly does this mean?

[atomicholiday]

14 minutes ago, bisc63 said:

Pardon my ignorance, but what exactly does this mean?

Yes.  Do tell!  Those last pics look crazy good!

And how durable is it?

Edited June 25, 2023 by atomicholiday

[Dpate]

1 hour ago, bisc63 said:

Pardon my ignorance, but what exactly does this mean?

 

1 hour ago, atomicholiday said:

Yes.  Do tell!  Those last pics look crazy good!

And how durable is it?

It’s this stuff here. Hard to find, but similar to C1 metal powder. Even they have a pic on there site with it over a metallic light blue, and looks like the real deal. The bumper was gloss black before applying the powder. Thought it would have brightened up like my last tests, but instead got black chrome. That’s when I decided to try the blue. Think gunmetal color would work as a base too. The stuff is crazy durable by the way. Looks like graphite powder, but this is some how electroplating powder like C1 is.

Edited June 25, 2023 by Dpate