rear view installing on windshield

[bummer666]

hello, forum i have a question not sure if its been asked before but, every time i try to glue in the tiny rear-view mirror on any model car or truck i always either get glue on or all over the windshield or cant get it to stick at all. and either i get very frustrated and end up just getting rid of it! im using Testors clear parts cement. am i missing something? is their any tips or tricks anyone can help or give some advice?

thank you to all that respond in advance!

Bummer666

[iamsuperdan]

Try applying a small bit of glue to the rear view mirror. Maybe put glue on a toothpick, then use the toothpick to dab a little on the mirror. Then use tweezers to very carefully place it. 

you don't need a lot of glue, because the mirror will never get touched or handled.

 

[Ace-Garageguy]

My problem with PVA clear parts glues like Testors is that most of them have zero strength when they're wet.

Something like a mirror glued inside a windshield will most likely require some kind of jig or fixture to hold it until the glue sets up.

This isn't a problem when attaching headlight lenses to grilles that are lying flat on the bench, or closely fitting 'glass' windows that can be taped in place prior to gluing the edges.

How you're going to manage a fixture for gluing a mirror to a windshield seems like a problem.

Two thoughts come to mind: maybe self-closing tweezers carefully arranged prior to applying the glue, or a thin strip of masking tape.

Otherwise, I got nothin'.  

 

 

[bummer666]

15 minutes ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

My problem with PVA clear parts glues like Testors is that most of them have zero strength when they're wet.

Something like a mirror glued inside a windshield will most likely require some kind of jig or fixture to hold it until the glue sets up.

This isn't a problem when attaching headlight lenses to grilles that are lying flat on the bench, or closely fitting 'glass' windows that can be taped in place prior to gluing the edges.

How you're going to manage a fixture for gluing a mirror to a windshield seems like a problem.

Two thoughts come to mind: maybe self-closing tweezers carefully arranged prior to applying the glue, or a thin strip of masking tape.

Otherwise, I got nothin'.  

thank you, i thought it was just me! and yes testors clear cement is no good because of exactly what you stated! 

 

 

[StevenGuthmiller]

Very simple.

Put a small dab of clear 2 part epoxy on the roof or glass where you’re putting the mirror and then walk away.  

Set a timer for about 15 minutes, (for the 5 minute epoxy I use anyway) and then come back and check the tackiness of the glue on your mixing card.

If the glue is still semi-liquid, let it set for a while longer, until it’s sticky, but really doesn’t create any strands when you stick in and pull away an instrument.

Once it’s at this “just tacky” stage, place your mirror with a tweezers.

You should get no glue squeeze out, and the mirror will stick and stay exactly where you put it.

It will still take a little while for the glue to set completely, so you’ll still have time to make minor adjustments.

 

 

I use this technique for a lot of "sensitive" assemblies.

As an example, as we speak, I'm installing a piece of wire for a fan belt on my '64 Bonneville project.

Rather than try to do it all in one shot and making a mess with CA glue, I'm gluing basically one pulley at a time using this tacky glue technique, letting it set up hard for a couple of hours, and then going around the next pulley.

This helps me keep the belt taught, and prevents a glue mess.

 

 

Steve

Edited March 24, 2023 by StevenGuthmiller

[bluestringer]

I use a small dot of super glue, give it a few seconds to get tacky then hold the mirror in place with tweezers for a few more seconds. I have also used Mod Podge, it is very tacky after a few seconds.

[Bainford]

More info here...

 

[Classicgas]

13 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

Very simple.

Put a small dab of clear 2 part epoxy on the roof or glass where you’re putting the mirror and then walk away.  

Set a timer for about 15 minutes, (for the 5 minute epoxy I use anyway) and then come back and check the tackiness of the glue on your mixing card.

If the glue is still semi-liquid, let it set for a while longer, until it’s sticky, but really doesn’t create any strands when you stick in and pull away an instrument.

Once it’s at this “just tacky” stage, place your mirror with a tweezers.

You should get no glue squeeze out, and the mirror will stick and stay exactly where you put it.

It will still take a little while for the glue to set completely, so you’ll still have time to make minor adjustments.

 

 

I use this technique for a lot of "sensitive" assemblies.

As an example, as we speak, I'm installing a piece of wire for a fan belt on my '64 Bonneville project.

Rather than try to do it all in one shot and making a mess with CA glue, I'm gluing basically one pulley at a time using this tacky glue technique, letting it set up hard for a couple of hours, and then going around the next pulley.

This helps me keep the belt taught, and prevents a glue mess.

 

 

Steve

X2!!!!

[Mike 1017]

13 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

Very simple.

Put a small dab of clear 2 part epoxy on the roof or glass where you’re putting the mirror and then walk away.  

Set a timer for about 15 minutes, (for the 5 minute epoxy I use anyway) and then come back and check the tackiness of the glue on your mixing card.

If the glue is still semi-liquid, let it set for a while longer, until it’s sticky, but really doesn’t create any strands when you stick in and pull away an instrument.

Once it’s at this “just tacky” stage, place your mirror with a tweezers.

You should get no glue squeeze out, and the mirror will stick and stay exactly where you put it.

It will still take a little while for the glue to set completely, so you’ll still have time to make minor adjustments.

 

 

I use this technique for a lot of "sensitive" assemblies.

As an example, as we speak, I'm installing a piece of wire for a fan belt on my '64 Bonneville project.

Rather than try to do it all in one shot and making a mess with CA glue, I'm gluing basically one pulley at a time using this tacky glue technique, letting it set up hard for a couple of hours, and then going around the next pulley.

This helps me keep the belt taught, and prevents a glue mess.

 

 

Steve

I agree. I also use this method for outside mirrors.

[tbill]

I’ve been using canopy glue , small dab on the glass, set mirror and let it dry. The canopy glue is tacky enough after a minute or so to keep mirror in place and dries clear

[OldNYJim]

Unlike the one piece of advise above, I would NOT recommend getting superglue anywhere near your model car’s clear parts.

While there ARE variants that can be used - most regular stuff will leave a white fog or haze on the clear plastic.

[StevenGuthmiller]

2 hours ago, CabDriver said:

Unlike the one piece of advise above, I would NOT recommend getting superglue anywhere near your model car’s clear parts.

While there ARE variants that can be used - most regular stuff will leave a white fog or haze on the clear plastic.

Agreed.

Regular super glue will not only fog kit glass, but it will fog chrome parts, and even paint in some instances.

 

 

Steve