Mattilacken Posted August 31 Posted August 31 Gotten around to start whit the CTS, ordered spares, a new timing belt, waterpump, and some filters. So I dug in to it and started to take it apart. Need to finger out how the tinging belt change should be done. the Cadillac team working on the V6 while watching the 2025 attendants racing. Haha or some thing like that!
Quiet Eric Posted September 5 Posted September 5 I've posted about the '57 before, but it has changed a lot since the last time it was on the road. Of course that was around 3 years ago. I've also been working on this '64 El Camino. It's a full frame off. Lots or rust repair, suspension work, 9" rear. 6.0LS. But it's been pretty hard for me to find the motivation to get out in the garage the last couple years. Much easier and quicker return on my effort building models! 4
RSchnell Posted September 6 Posted September 6 I'm heading back out to CA in Nov to pick this up. I first saw the car back in June when I was out there to get the '55 Ford Convertible I bought. '55 Ford Customline, Y-block with an automatic, no structural rust, even the front crossmember is good. Just has some surface rust & some parking lot rash which is nothing considering what I'm used to dealing with. I thought about this car on the plane ride home and for a couple weeks after that. Finally called the man and made a deal for it. The idea of building a Fordor for a driver is a novel concept for me, as I used to consider them parts cars & cut up several 55-56 Ford Fordors for parts over the years. This car appealed to me because it hasn't been messed with too much. I despise ungoobering a car! My plans are to make it into a lowbuck ride, something I don't mind leaving in the grocery store parking lot. I'm thinking I'll have 6K in the car all in. We'll see how far off I am LOL! 8
Mattilacken Posted September 14 Posted September 14 Well owning a car that you like as your daily but it’s almost to expensive to own renders in some work from time to time… my 15 GC got a Tone ring delamination problem.. what to do, tear the gearbox and other equipment. A 3 day job for me with looong days would probably set me back around 30000kr (3000$) in labor for a 100usd part.. 1
mchook Posted September 29 Posted September 29 Been working on this "T" again for a bit. This is the 2nd engine in the past 2 years. The last one ran good but had a quarter size hole in the block up in next to the valve guide. We got this one in a while back & got it running 2 weeks ago. Then found out the rear end was shot, changed that last week. Went for a little ride today, blew the front tire and found out the steering is loose as hello. 3
espo Posted September 30 Posted September 30 On 9/28/2025 at 8:32 PM, mchook said: Been working on this "T" again for a bit. This is the 2nd engine in the past 2 years. The last one ran good but had a quarter size hole in the block up in next to the valve guide. We got this one in a while back & got it running 2 weeks ago. Then found out the rear end was shot, changed that last week. Went for a little ride today, blew the front tire and found out the steering is loose as hello. Sort of asking your grandfather to jitter bug all night. For those not yet born in the mid to late 1900's, the jitter bug was a style of dancing that was very physical, and one could tire very easily. Keep up the good work on this as true testament to your perseverance. 1
Mattilacken Posted October 2 Posted October 2 Ben working on the caddie, cambelt changed and reassembly started. I could not leave it alone and modified the valve covers with two stainless plates and cut a bracket apart to move the ECU to the body side. Will make the engine more visible. And manny things are now connected.. still some left to figure out. 1
Tabbysdaddy Posted Sunday at 05:44 PM Posted Sunday at 05:44 PM This Ranger has been fighting me for a month. My daughter drives it and it overheated. Weekend #1- removed heads, found a cracked head. Weekend #2- found a used head, reassembled everything. Still not running right. Weekend #3- removed head I didn't change, crack I can't see or bent valve. Weekend #4, this weekend- installed another used head, still not running right. So, remove radiator and water pump to inspect. Radiator fine, water pump pictured below. 1
Ace-Garageguy Posted Sunday at 06:51 PM Posted Sunday at 06:51 PM 1 hour ago, Tabbysdaddy said: ...water pump pictured below. Wow. That's just...wow. 1
johnyrotten Posted Sunday at 07:11 PM Posted Sunday at 07:11 PM 1 hour ago, Tabbysdaddy said: water pump pictured below. Seen that on vw's with the plastic impeller, they also fall off. never a metal one. Surprised it never started leaking. I'd say you got your money's worth. 1
Tabbysdaddy Posted Sunday at 08:49 PM Posted Sunday at 08:49 PM 1 hour ago, Ace-Garageguy said: Wow. That's just...wow. It's actually common on some Fords. Brainstorming last night I remembered reading about it so I was hoping, expecting to find this. Or a clogged radiator.
Tabbysdaddy Posted Sunday at 08:56 PM Posted Sunday at 08:56 PM 1 hour ago, johnyrotten said: Seen that on vw's with the plastic impeller, they also fall off. never a metal one. Surprised it never started leaking. I'd say you got your money's worth. I wish it would have started leaking. Maybe I would have found it six hundred dollars ago. 1
johnyrotten Posted Sunday at 08:57 PM Posted Sunday at 08:57 PM 1 minute ago, Tabbysdaddy said: I wish it would have started leaking. Maybe I would have found it six hundred dollars ago. Ouch. 1
Ace-Garageguy Posted Sunday at 09:11 PM Posted Sunday at 09:11 PM 20 minutes ago, Tabbysdaddy said: It's actually common on some Fords. Brainstorming last night I remembered reading about it so I was hoping, expecting to find this. Or a clogged radiator. I've seen a fair few eroded pump impellers over the years, but that's just...wow. About the only coolant flow was from convection. 1
Falcon Ranchero Posted Sunday at 09:27 PM Posted Sunday at 09:27 PM Got the trunk badge finally mounted. Had to cut off all the prongs except for the one behind the "I" (the holes in the trunk didn't match up with the prongs on the badge, since the badge is apparently a '67, and we had to mount it on our '69) because interestingly enough the "I" prong, when fit in the hole, centeres the whole badge correctly and also has it at an appropriate height. Though we could still see the remaining holes so my dad printed out some sticker vinyl colour coded to the car's paint, and printed on metalic silver vinyl so it looks exactly like the car paint, and so I cut small circles out and stuck them over the holes. Does the job. So the badge is mostly stuck on there with two-sided automotive tape, but I have it screwed in where the "I" is. 2
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