What is best paint to replicate brass on a ICM 1911 Ford Model T ?

[Matt87]

I have some Testors brass enamel paint but its too dark. Is there a better option to replicate brass trim on a early Model T? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks

[Chuckyg1]

How about Tamiya gold leaf, X 12. I don't know if it's available as a spray. Here it is on a 442 oil pan.

[Ace-Garageguy]

I've used Rub 'n Buff materials to good effect on occasion.

After buffing, it's not sparkly like metallic paint. Real brass isn't either.

Here's some samples...

Edited June 11, 2023 by Ace-Garageguy

[peteski]

I would go with Alclad II polished brass over gloss black or gray undercoat.  It is similar to their chrome, but of course with brass color. So it looks like polished piece of brass.  Airbrushed of course.

[stitchdup]

if its not going to be handled too often montana gold spray cans. its is similar to molotowe in needing about a week to set hard and cannot be cleared but it gives a nice brassey finish. This is straight from the can, over a brush painted resin print

 

[bbowser]

I've used Testors Model Master brass if you can find it anywhere

[Matt87]

Thank you for the tips! I will keep you all posted on what I use for the brass on the T.

[Matt87]

I decided on Rust Oleum Metallic gold. It replicates brass well but isn't as metallic as Testors metallic gold. And Tamiya gold leaf I tried but it was I thought too dark. Thank you for the tips. I will post pictures when the Model T is done.

[ctruss53]

Alclad makes a brass.  I have not tried it yet.

I do like their metal finishes that I have used though. 

[peteski]

Earlier in this thread I also suggested Alclad II Polished Brass, but Matthew already decided to use Rustoleum paint.

[ctruss53]

On 6/11/2023 at 12:45 PM, Ace-Garageguy said:

I've used Rub 'n Buff materials to good effect on occasion.

After buffing, it's not sparkly like metallic paint. Real brass isn't either.

Here's some samples...

Ace, I just did a search for that stuff. But I didn't find anything about proper use.

What can you tell me about that stuff? And how to use it?

[Ace-Garageguy]

1 hour ago, ctruss53 said:

Ace, I just did a search for that stuff. But I didn't find anything about proper use.

What can you tell me about that stuff? And how to use it?

It's a waxy paste you rub on and then buff out with a soft cloth.

This was a Q&D test panel I did with the silver leaf while experimenting how to achieve a bare aluminum effect...

Below is the finished model. It represents Mickey Thompson's Challenger I before it was painted, when it was introduced to the press in its original non-supercharged form, fresh from the body builder.

Rub 'n Buff is thin enough to let any imperfections in the surface show through, so I applied it over a surface that had been lightly sanded, to look like finished alloy skins pre-primer.

EDIT: It's probably not as permanent as the Alclad. Ten years after I built the thing, it's dulled noticeably...but it hasn't been in a case either. There's a good chance a light buffing would bring it back. Real bare aluminum would have lightly oxidized somewhat too in 10 years, so I'm not too disappointed.  

Edited June 20, 2023 by Ace-Garageguy

[ctruss53]

1 hour ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

It's a waxy paste you rub on and then buff out with a soft cloth.

This was a Q&D test panel I did with the silver leaf while experimenting how to achieve a bare aluminum effect...

Below is the finished model. It represents Mickey Thompson's Challenger I before it was painted, when it was introduced to the press in its original non-supercharged form, fresh from the body builder.

Rub 'n Buff is thin enough to let any imperfections in the surface show through, so I applied it over a surface that had been lightly sanded, to look like finished alloy skins pre-primer.

EDIT: It's probably not as permanent as the Alclad. Ten years after I built the thing, it's dulled noticeably...but it hasn't been in a case either. There's a good chance a light buffing would bring it back. Real bare aluminum would have lightly oxidized somewhat too in 10 years, so I'm not too disappointed.  

Thanks for the info. So can you apply it over bare plastic? Or does it need to have paint on it?

[Ace-Garageguy]

6 minutes ago, ctruss53 said:

...So can you apply it over bare plastic? Or does it need to have paint on it?

Either or.  

[ctruss53]

3 minutes ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

Either or.  

OOOOOOOO

[Matt87]

All I have for Airbrush right now is a Badger 250 and I tried Alclad chrome while back with no luck so I didn't think Alclad brass would work either.

[oldcarfan]

On 6/11/2023 at 6:03 PM, stitchdup said:

if its not going to be handled too often montana gold spray cans. its is similar to molotowe in needing about a week to set hard and cannot be cleared but it gives a nice brassey finish. This is straight from the can, over a brush painted resin print

 

Does this paint eventually harden to the touch or will it always stay soft or tacky? I remember how old Testor's silver, brass, and gold would stick to me even a year later.

[stitchdup]

3 hours ago, oldcarfan said:

Does this paint eventually harden to the touch or will it always stay soft or tacky? I remember how old Testor's silver, brass, and gold would stick to me even a year later.

i painted it over a month ago and it seem fairly robust. I've pushed my finger in pretty hard and it didn't leave a mark either on my skin or the paint. it doesn't take clear though, it turns it a dirty splotchy brown