MarkJ Posted March 21, 2024 Author Posted March 21, 2024 (edited) Got more work on the dash done. The rings around the gauges are black so I'm hoping I can fill in the little gaps in the rings. 1/25 scale modeling is so much more intense than 1/24 scale. It's surprising the difference in size when you get down to the little things like gauges. Edited March 25, 2024 by MarkJ 1
MarkJ Posted March 21, 2024 Author Posted March 21, 2024 18 minutes ago, Mattilacken said: Nice progress! Great work on all the parts! Thanks, Anton.
MarkJ Posted March 23, 2024 Author Posted March 23, 2024 (edited) Had to redo the gauges. I had forgotten that I had bought a better epoxy to use and the jb weld stuff was just too thick to work with. Edited March 23, 2024 by MarkJ 2
MarkJ Posted March 23, 2024 Author Posted March 23, 2024 That blue tape is sticky side up to hold the gauges together while I put the epoxy on them. I always use sticky side up tape to hold small parts when I'm working with them.
Pierre Rivard Posted March 23, 2024 Posted March 23, 2024 Interesting, I do my gauges in a similar way but I use Micro Krystal Klear for the "glass" and I don't like it much. I have the same epoxy as your's but did not realize it dries clear enough for this. That's good learning.
MarkJ Posted March 24, 2024 Author Posted March 24, 2024 I was thinking about using the vallejo gloss clear varnish for the glass.
MarkJ Posted March 27, 2024 Author Posted March 27, 2024 (edited) On to the oil tank in the trunk area. Its rectangular shaped and I have one fuzzy view of it, so probably not going to be that close. Edited March 27, 2024 by MarkJ
MarkJ Posted March 27, 2024 Author Posted March 27, 2024 Or it might just have a rectangular top on it. I might just go that route. It would be easier to fabricate.
bytownshaker Posted March 27, 2024 Posted March 27, 2024 (edited) 1 hour ago, MarkJ said: On to the oil tank in the trunk area. Its rectangular shaped and I have one fuzzy view of it, so probably not going to be that close. It appears to be a Oberg oil filter Edited March 27, 2024 by bytownshaker spelling
MarkJ Posted March 27, 2024 Author Posted March 27, 2024 Thanks for that Edgar. It must sit on top of the oil tank. Why else have it in the trunk. I need to read up on these things and see how they work.
MarkJ Posted March 28, 2024 Author Posted March 28, 2024 14 hours ago, jjsipes said: Looking great Mark Thanks, Jason for the kind words.
MarkJ Posted March 28, 2024 Author Posted March 28, 2024 (edited) Okay, I have to thank Edgar again for the info about the Oberg tattle tale oil filter. I did some research on it, and it is not mounted on the tank. It is just mounted in the trunk, up high by itself, for easy access so the micron screen in it, that is easy to replace and because of its design, it does a much better job of filtration then a common automotive oil filter. I don't have to worry about the tank because it apparently is hidden from view between floor panels and the lower body panels in the back. Probably the only thing you might see is a drain plug for it. Not even sure what it looks like or how big it is. Doesn't really matter. Below is the bottom and side view of the filter. I just have to make a 1/25 scale version of it. I believe it is a little bigger than 8 inches by 8 inches which becomes a little bigger than 5/16 of an inch by 5/16 of an inch. Edited March 28, 2024 by MarkJ 1
MarkJ Posted April 3, 2024 Author Posted April 3, 2024 Got some work done on the tiny Oberg filter. Slow going because of the size. My fingers and eyes don't want to work that small. The pics are in the wrong order. 2
bytownshaker Posted April 3, 2024 Posted April 3, 2024 Your filter turned out nice, I know what you mean about small parts the fingers don't work like they used to.
MarkJ Posted April 3, 2024 Author Posted April 3, 2024 Thanks, Pierre and Edgar for stopping by and sharing your thoughts. Yes, I will be glad when this part is finished.
MarkJ Posted April 5, 2024 Author Posted April 5, 2024 I think the fab on the oil filter and mounting bracket is through. Just need to install the bracket to the model and paint the oil filter. Still need to prime the chassis and paint it a very light gray. 2
kensar Posted April 5, 2024 Posted April 5, 2024 Wow, that's a lot of modifications you've done. Nice work.
MarkJ Posted April 5, 2024 Author Posted April 5, 2024 Thanks for stopping by Jason and Ken . I really appreciate the kind words.
MarkJ Posted April 9, 2024 Author Posted April 9, 2024 Added the mount for the shifter and painted the inside of the doors and under hood where necessary. I messed up and put the mount too far forward to where it was going to be under the dash, so I had to cut it loose and move it back a bit. This is where paying too much attention to the ref pictures will get you in trouble. The ref pictures for this build just gives you a general idea about where things are, but not exactly. The IROC race car Camaro is a banjo car not a real Camaro from the factory, so it might look the same, but they are way different in actual dimensions. The 1975 IROC race car Camaro was actually a stock Camaro made into a race car. Not really a very safe race car for the speeds they were going. That's why they changed to a Banjo chassis in 76 or 77. I can't remember exactly. The Porsche they used the first year was a factory built 911 with a few tweaks here and there but it was basically a stock 911 with a simple roll bar behind the two front seats and the Engine was a race engine. It was called a 911 RSR 3.0. They only built them for the IROC series. I think there were 15 race cars and 2 spare ones. A lot are still around and worth boocoos of money.
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